Wowoow ... she's mine, all mine....

[Daftmare]

Electrical fault started a fire aboard one boat that spread to adjoining at Stone, Staffs. Short report.

A local helped release and split boats up preventing further damage before the Brigade got into action, according to some.

 

Derek

 

EDIT: Bit MORE

 

 

Was this the same fire that destroyed the Phyllis May? (of Narrow Dog fame?).

 

Congratulations on your new boat, by the way - and enjoy the K&A - we did for three years before moving further South!

 

Jo.

[Derek R.]

Was this the same fire that destroyed the Phyllis May? (of Narrow Dog fame?).

 

Congratulations on your new boat, by the way - and enjoy the K&A - we did for three years before moving further South!

 

Jo.

 

It would appear so - the second link in the EDIT reported this.

 

Derek

[Chris-B]

Nice Luctor.....enjoy....

 

( ps you know where to get the bits for the SR !)

 

Chris

[Daftmare]

It would appear so - the second link in the EDIT reported this.

 

Derek

 

 

Oops, missed that

[Tim Doran]

Looks lovely, did the boat twist much in the fire. I hope not becuase it looks like it could have a lovely shape.

 

Tim

[Kate and James]

many congrats LetE!!

Enjoy!

[NB Alton]

The best of luck with your new boat & wishing you sucess in all your plans.

 

Cheers, Brian

[luctor et emergo]

Thanks all.

 

Day two, and I have so much dust in my hair, nose, everywhere... Cleaning out the remnants of the interior is proving to be a hard job. On the plus side, the steel (and iron.. ) underneath is in a pretty good shape. A little bit of surface rust here and there, but on the whole the preparation by t the previous owner has held up well. Most of the paint is still there.

I'm also lugging a tremendous number of iron bars (balast), which all need to be shifted to be able to clear the debri.. And with all that balast, she still only draws around a foot or so at the bow. I may remove some of the balast, as it will allow me to carry more when she is ready, if anybody is interested in balast (I think it's pig iron, but I may be wrong) give me a shout.

The SR3 is a fine lump, starts first turn of the key, and charges the batteries. And thus my computer... I bought a small inverter to charge the laptop, as I don't have a change to clean and check the superduper inverter that is on board. I opened up the case, and indeed the inards are covered in some sort of fine residue. But there doesn't seem to be any other damage inside, so fingers crossed I can save it. If not, not the end of the world, as I will only have 12 volt installed anyhow.

There is also a Hurricane heater, which heated the radiators. As with the inverter, it has been submerged, and not cleaned or tried. It will go though, so if you are interested, give us a shout.

 

It's stopped raining, but it isn't very warm out here. Somebody should tell the climate chance people, that this global warming malarky seems to have gone in reverse. It's May for goodness sake..

 

The hull has only one spot really were a small portion has 'warped' (or rather bulged) a little bit, but nothing serious. Other than that, the forward part of the cabin took the brunt of the damage, and is effectively bejond repair. But as I'm removing that part of the cabin anyway, that is not a problem. The rear portion has some minor damage, but no structural problems. I'm probably going to weld the large window appertures over anyhow, and fit some snazy port holes, to match the ones in the engine'ole.. Did i mention the speedwheel throttle control? :lol: I love the engine room, I just need to get some Brunswick Green... ;)

 

Tomorow , more cleaning, and possibly get a small power tool with a steel wire brush, to speed things up a bit. Might even get to slap some paint on over the weekend.

 

Oh well, I think I'll amble over to the pub for a quick one before bed. "Well, it's cold, and I need to warm upo , etc etc..."

[Tim Doran]

Please can we have some pics of the inside?

 

Tim

[luctor et emergo]

I am aching allover... and I have found more balast... The flooring (marine plywood) that remained is proving to be a bastard to lift, because all the screws have seized solid to the bearers... I am having to drill around the screws, and crowbar the sheets up. have to finish that job tomorrow, as the skip will be here. Hopefully I'll also be able to get a good crack at finishing up the surface preparation of the hold, and maybe even start painting. I'll start a discussion on paint in a separate thread... .

 

I'll post some pictures later, but it may be after the weekend, as my laptop charger seems to have stopped working...

[Derek R.]

Whatever ballast you have got - SAVE IT! You will find a need for it - Pig iron is especially prized (sorry guys).

When you get around to replacing those rusted screws - use brass. Never use steel screws in a boats woodwork - you are finding out why!

 

Don't knacker yourself - keep going, but go steady.

 

Derek

 

EDIT: Paint - if its underfloor on plating, consider Waxoly - lots of it, thick and gooey. I would advise not spending lots of cash with rust converters, you will not get down to enough bare metal for them to make an impression on deep scale, and as they do not penetrate like an oil, a good smack with a hammer from beneath will dislodge the lot after they have dried - back to square one.

Edited May 8, 2010 by Derek R.

[bargemast]

Congratulations and I wish you lots of courage and energy to prepare the boat for what you want to do with her.

 

Peter.

[luctor et emergo]

Whatever ballast you have got - SAVE IT! You will find a need for it - Pig iron is especially prized (sorry guys).

When you get around to replacing those rusted screws - use brass. Never use steel screws in a boats woodwork - you are finding out why!

 

Don't knacker yourself - keep going, but go steady.

 

Derek

 

EDIT: Paint - if its underfloor on plating, consider Waxoly - lots of it, thick and gooey. I would advise not spending lots of cash with rust converters, you will not get down to enough bare metal for them to make an impression on deep scale, and as they do not penetrate like an oil, a good smack with a hammer from beneath will dislodge the lot after they have dried - back to square one.

 

Thanks for the comments Derek, they are valuable tips. I'm on a bit of a crashcourse on boats now, but I'm enjoying it, at least for now.. . I'll certainly look into the waxoly path, as it sounds like a better option than just paint and hoping that the bilge remains dry. The bilge is certainly not entirely dry at the moment.

 

Home again now (but still aching ), and the state of play is as follows.

Most of the floor boards are up, and most of the ballast has been moved about to some extent, to check underneath. Most of the hull and bottom appear to be in good condition, needing only cleaning, a quick pass with a wire brush, and painting or waxoly to finish. There, that is the good news...

The not so good news, is that there is a section of the old iron bottom, that has some major corrosion around the cross bearers (about three of them), which has small leak where a bearer covers two mating plates. The leak has been fixed for now, as she goes in the dry dock in June, but this section is going to need some replacement steel by the look of it. I have to determine later if it can be patched, or if a whole section of the bottom needs to be replaced. Luckily the chines are still in good condition, although some of the rivets may need attention, which is what will be determined when she is properly cleaned in drydock.

 

And the Esse range needs to go. It is to big for my needs, and in the way. It needs a full overhaul on the exterior, but inside is fine. I have fired her up a few times, just a few bits of wood mind, and she burns and draws air fine. Also heated up quick (I menaged to boil a kettle on it before I let it go out again. Has to be removed from the boat (the boat yard has a truck mounted crane on site).

New these things retail up to £3000 ( no really, range for sale.. ) , but serious, even silly offers are considered, on the premise that the buyer has to collect and restore. PM me for details.

 

I'll try to post some more pics later..

 

p.s. Derek, regarding the balast, I know what you mean about the iron, but as I'm looking at carrying between 5 and (max) 10 ton, at as little draft as possible, I'm thinking of replacing (some of) the iron with concrete slabs. I will possibly be carrying an extra 1000 liters of water when the collection tank is empty, which would act as a trim tank of sorts as well.

 

Tata for now

Edited May 10, 2010 by luctor et emergo

[Dyad]

I am aching allover... and I have found more balast... The flooring (marine plywood) that remained is proving to be a bastard to lift, because all the screws have seized solid to the bearers... I am having to drill around the screws, and crowbar the sheets up. have to finish that job tomorrow, as the skip will be here. Hopefully I'll also be able to get a good crack at finishing up the surface preparation of the hold, and maybe even start painting. I'll start a discussion on paint in a separate thread... .

 

I'll post some pictures later, but it may be after the weekend, as my laptop charger seems to have stopped working...

 

Would one of these help?

 

Kev

[luctor et emergo]

Would one of these help?

 

Kev

 

Thanks for the heads-up Kev, but I fear that I need a more heavy duty item than that.. The screws are all seized, or rusted, solid to the bearer underneath. I think that the JML video uses what looks like new, shiney screws in wood. I can see it's use in the house, where often the screw head damage is the problem, but in this instance I don't thiunk it would work. I also tried drilling the srewheads, but they are to tough. In fact, drilling the ply is not a heavy job, just labourious.

[Derek R.]

It's your choice with the ballast of course, but do remember concrete slabs for the equivalent weight will take up more space.

As a yardstick, one ton of weight added to a 70' boat will usually add one inch of draught in the water. You'll have to calculate for the shorter length of course, but it might come in handy as a guide. When you get to the stage - place all ballast on wooden strips of wood, or some tilers felt to prevent abrasion against the bottoms.

One other point on draught - the less there is, the quicker you will be able to cruise in shallow waters and the closer you will be able to get to the bank (in theory). The downside is, you will be at more mercy of any cross wind as there is less hull in the water to 'bite' and keep control through rudder and prop.

 

Lots of work ahead, and don't even think about it being finished - no boat is ever finished!! As one wag has said: a boat makes a hole in the water, into that hole you may pour all your money, all your families money, all your friends money, all your banks money - and the hole will remain the same size.

 

Enjoy the process - do not suffer it, the constructive rewards and the community afloat is like no other.

 

Derek

 

Edit: "wooden strips of wood" Hmm.

Edited May 12, 2010 by Derek R.

[RLWP]

LeE,

 

have you been watching this thread: Here

 

There's a lot of stuff towards the end about ballast, particularly using ballast at the front to keep the stern far enough off the bottom.

 

Richard

[mike phipps]

LeE,

 

have you been watching this thread: Here

 

There's a lot of stuff towards the end about ballast, particularly using ballast at the front to keep the stern far enough off the bottom.

 

Richard

l.e.e banghead here ? no seriousley you had a knock at me about my punctuation.well someone told me what the enter button does.

been watching the posts on your new boat !!! i really envy you, i am to old to atempt what you are undertaking but you go for it

in the past i have fitted out 3 motor homes. always learning from past mistakes.

don,t rush look at all your needs .

you are a hg driver ,now dowt spending nights in your wagon,you now what you want and require

plan your boat around what you want ,and you go for good luck.mike

 

ps.a real range in your back cabin and you want to sell it ......beef stews when you come home...ah well ....all the best

[luctor et emergo]

It's your choice with the ballast of course, but do remember concrete slabs for the equivalent weight will take up more space.

As a yardstick, one ton of weight added to a 70' boat will usually add one inch of draught in the water. You'll have to calculate for the shorter length of course, but it might come in handy as a guide. When you get to the stage - place all ballast on wooden strips of wood, or some tilers felt to prevent abrasion against the bottoms.

One other point on draught - the less there is, the quicker you will be able to cruise in shallow waters and the closer you will be able to get to the bank (in theory). The downside is, you will be at more mercy of any cross wind as there is less hull in the water to 'bite' and keep control through rudder and prop.

 

Lots of work ahead, and don't even think about it being finished - no boat is ever finished!! As one wag has said: a boat makes a hole in the water, into that hole you may pour all your money, all your families money, all your friends money, all your banks money - and the hole will remain the same size.

 

Enjoy the process - do not suffer it, the constructive rewards and the community afloat is like no other.

 

Derek

 

Edit: "wooden strips of wood" Hmm.

 

At the moment, with no interior at all, but all the present ballast on board, the bow draws about a foot, and the stern just under two foot. In fact, the counter above the swim is just in the water. I did not really take the weight of the range into account, so maybe I don't need to lose much or any ballast after all. I'm planning on starting with 1000 gallon capacity of holding tank, which should add some 5-6 inches of draught. That would give me around 2 foot of draught at the bow, which will be good, as I don't feel like getting the bow stuck to much. having said that, I may go for as much as 2000 or 2500 gallons, in which case we talk about 10 to 12t, and around 12 to 15 inches. That will get me well over 2 foot draught (I will add some weight with the inevitable fit-out), if not close to 3 foot. Ialso need to allow for other items that I may carry.

 

As for suffering it or not, I see this as an ongoing project, which I intent to enjoy. Apart from getting the hull ready to work, I have no deadlines or set plans. I will start to work along the canal, and the proceeds will pay for the upkeep and 'restoration' of the boat. any extra money at tyhis stage will be a bonus. my approach is going to be very much 'as and how', letting circumstances dictate to some extent. For example, if I could get a small hull repair fixed by riveting, I would, but if circumstances mean it has to be welded cheap and quick, so be it. Likewise, the fit-out is going to start really simple. All I need is a table, chair, and bed. Everything else can wait untill a later time.

 

The new bulkhead is already put on the 'later' list, as that money will now likely go toward rebottoming that bad section.

 

A project boat with history and character, what more could I want?

 

[Naughty Cal]

At the moment, with no interior at all, but all the present ballast on board, the bow draws about a foot, and the stern just under two foot. In fact, the counter above the swim is just in the water. I did not really take the weight of the range into account, so maybe I don't need to lose much or any ballast after all. I'm planning on starting with 1000 gallon capacity of holding tank, which should add some 5-6 inches of draught. That would give me around 2 foot of draught at the bow, which will be good, as I don't feel like getting the bow stuck to much. having said that, I may go for as much as 2000 or 2500 gallons, in which case we talk about 10 to 12t, and around 12 to 15 inches. That will get me well over 2 foot draught (I will add some weight with the inevitable fit-out), if not close to 3 foot. Ialso need to allow for other items that I may carry.

 

As for suffering it or not, I see this as an ongoing project, which I intent to enjoy. Apart from getting the hull ready to work, I have no deadlines or set plans. I will start to work along the canal, and the proceeds will pay for the upkeep and 'restoration' of the boat. any extra money at tyhis stage will be a bonus. my approach is going to be very much 'as and how', letting circumstances dictate to some extent. For example, if I could get a small hull repair fixed by riveting, I would, but if circumstances mean it has to be welded cheap and quick, so be it. Likewise, the fit-out is going to start really simple. All I need is a table, chair, and bed. Everything else can wait untill a later time.

 

The new bulkhead is already put on the 'later' list, as that money will now likely go toward rebottoming that bad section.

 

A project boat with history and character, what more could I want?

 

 

A lottery win

[luctor et emergo]

l.e.e banghead here ? no seriousley you had a knock at me about my punctuation.well someone told me what the enter button does.

been watching the posts on your new boat !!! i really envy you, i am to old to atempt what you are undertaking but you go for it

in the past i have fitted out 3 motor homes. always learning from past mistakes.

don,t rush look at all your needs .

you are a hg driver ,now dowt spending nights in your wagon,you now what you want and require

plan your boat around what you want ,and you go for good luck.mike

 

ps.a real range in your back cabin and you want to sell it ......beef stews when you come home...ah well ....all the best

 

 

Hello banghead didn't mean any malice when I poted about your punctuation, it was just to point out that not using it can make understanding a point really difficult.

 

I'm indeed planning the boat around what I want/need, I intent to have this boat untill either of us gives out. The range is simply to big. I intent to replace it (eventually ) with an Epping, which would be much more suitable for my use. Beefstew, Lamb stew, I know where you're coming from.

 

 

 

A lottery win

 

 

Oh, certainly. 2 numbers last week, and none yesterday....

[luctor et emergo]

I've started adding pictures to my blog, here.

 

enjoy

[soldthehouse]

I've started adding pictures to my blog, here.

 

enjoy

Keep those pics coming. Isee we are both "in at the deep end" The boat looks in not too bad a shape after the description on boatwrecks said extensively fire damaged.

[luctor et emergo]

Keep those pics coming. Isee we are both "in at the deep end" The boat looks in not too bad a shape after the description on boatwrecks said extensively fire damaged.

 

 

Ah yes, I didn't realise that there was another 'in at the deep end' blog when I started mine...

 

The engine room was spared in the fire, apart from some superficial scorcing, and most of the wiring having melted. But I wanted that out anyway. The front took the brunt of it..

 

[Guest]

Serious question

 

- what is the plan for dealing with any residual smell. I'm assuming there is one given the extent of the damage. Fire damage usually leaves an awful stink afterwards that is very difficult to get rid of so what's the plan?