tank sender units

[number four]

what type of tank sender units do you have

how accurate are they

how reliable

and what make wuold you recomend

 

at the moment i like the look of the presure type as sold by mid service centre and others.

but like most gages they cannot account for a odd shaped tanks only semetric.

but i hope to be able to avoid this.

[nb Innisfree]

what type of tank sender units do you have

how accurate are they

how reliable

and what make wuold you recomend

 

at the moment i like the look of the presure type as sold by mid service centre and others.

but like most gages they cannot account for a odd shaped tanks only semetric.

but i hope to be able to avoid this.

 

We have Tankwatch4, 3 floats using hall effect, adjustable on installation to give 4 readings of your choice. Fits into top of tank but needs to be removed every 2 or 3 years for cleaning. Don't get ones that just tell you when you're full or nearly full, best to have early indication to plan p/o cruise.

 

We haven't bothered with water gauges as we have 3 tanks which work as a rough gauge.

Edited October 30, 2009 by nb Innisfree

[MoominPapa]

what type of tank sender units do you have

how accurate are they

how reliable

and what make wuold you recomend

For the water tank, I have a cunning alternative plan, but I've not completed it yet, so I can't give a definative recommendation.

 

bes.co.uk are selling water meters for about £12, and I've bought one which I plan to fit in the outlet from the tank. One run through to measure the capacity of the tank, and then noting the reading each time I fill up, and I should never run out again.

 

MP.

[nb Innisfree]

For the water tank, I have a cunning alternative plan, but I've not completed it yet, so I can't give a definative recommendation.

 

bes.co.uk are selling water meters for about £12, and I've bought one which I plan to fit in the outlet from the tank. One run through to measure the capacity of the tank, and then noting the reading each time I fill up, and I should never run out again.

 

MP.

 

Come on don't be shy

Edited October 30, 2009 by nb Innisfree

[MoominPapa]

Come on don't be shy

Err, the plan is the water-meter one. But don't blame me if turns out to be a bad idea, 'cause I've not actually done the plumbing yet: it's on my very long list for this winter.

 

MP.

Edited October 30, 2009 by MoominPapa

[FadeToScarlet]

I'm tempted to put plimsoll-line style markings on the bow, to show the fullness of the watertank...

[Guest]

Piece of wooden dowel with saw marks at 20L intervals.

[barge sara]

what type of tank sender units do you have

how accurate are they

how reliable

and what make wuold you recomend

 

Fuel tanks - dip stick.

Water tanks - clear sight gauge pipe in a dark cupboard.

 

Accurate

Reliable

Recommended.

[number four]

Fuel tanks - dip stick.this requires good access not oftern found on new boats and is messy

Water tanks - clear sight gauge pipe in a dark cupboard. not easy if the tanks under the floor

 

Accurate

Reliable

Recommended.

 

what about black water tanks?

[Peter R]

I've got one of the MSC pressure gauges for the water tank, and it works well for me (but then I don't have an odd-shaped tank)

 

Diesel tank gauge - length of dowel as previously suggested, so long as you know how far off the bottom the pick-up is!)

[Keeping Up]

A small tip, when using a length of dowel to measure the diesel level. Don't (as most people do) lower it down until it hits the bottom. Not only will that mean you have a very diesel-covered dowel, but also you may stir up the muck at the bottom of the tank and possibly even add little bits of wood to it - apart from the hopefully small risk that you'll make a hole in the bottom of the tank. Much better is to look down the filler hole until you can see the bright reflection from the surface of the diesel and then gently lower the dowel until the surface suddenly shimmers. Holding the dowel as close the the filler as possible, remove it and you can accurately measure the distance from the TOP of the tank to the surface of the diesel. Or you could calibrate the stick. At most you have a drip or two of diesel on the end of the dowel, and you won'y have disturbed the bottom of the tank.

[ditchcrawler]

For the water tank, I have a cunning alternative plan, but I've not completed it yet, so I can't give a definative recommendation.

 

bes.co.uk are selling water meters for about £12, and I've bought one which I plan to fit in the outlet from the tank. One run through to measure the capacity of the tank, and then noting the reading each time I fill up, and I should never run out again.

 

MP.

I did see a suggestion of connecting a 12 volt analog car clock in parallel with the water pump so the clock runs when the pump does and use that as a method of gauging how much water is used.

I use a MSC one for water and a dip stick with a cross handle like a sword for diesel so it can't touch the bottom of the tank.

[Bobbybass]

My Black tank came with the single light ' tank watch'..and I added an MSC guage above the loo..which I am really pleased with....so I have both.

I liked the MSC guage so much...I added one to my water tank...simple inline fit...took about 20 minutes.

This has been excellent...EXCEPT...I blew out the 'chip' when I filled it on the Thames. The huge Thames filler hose/ pressure was too much....

I just fitted a 'chip' holder..10p.. and got some spare 'chips' for 12p each and its all well again.

 

Diesel tank...digital 'stick'...used to find where the top surface of the fuel is...as described by another here....

 

Whatever your preference I guess...I do like the simplicity of the guages...horses for courses.

 

Bob

[ditchcrawler]

My Black tank came with the single light ' tank watch'..and I added an MSC guage above the loo..which I am really pleased with....so I have both.

I liked the MSC guage so much...I added one to my water tank...simple inline fit...took about 20 minutes.

This has been excellent...EXCEPT...I blew out the 'chip' when I filled it on the Thames. The huge Thames filler hose/ pressure was too much....

I just fitted a 'chip' holder..10p.. and got some spare 'chips' for 12p each and its all well again.

 

Diesel tank...digital 'stick'...used to find where the top surface of the fuel is...as described by another here....

 

Whatever your preference I guess...I do like the simplicity of the guages...horses for courses.

 

Bob

What do you mean by "chip"

[nb Innisfree]

My Black tank came with the single light ' tank watch'..and I added an MSC guage above the loo..which I am really pleased with....so I have both.

I liked the MSC guage so much...I added one to my water tank...simple inline fit...took about 20 minutes.

This has been excellent...EXCEPT...I blew out the 'chip' when I filled it on the Thames. The huge Thames filler hose/ pressure was too much....

I just fitted a 'chip' holder..10p.. and got some spare 'chips' for 12p each and its all well again.

 

Diesel tank...digital 'stick'...used to find where the top surface of the fuel is...as described by another here....

 

Whatever your preference I guess...I do like the simplicity of the guages...horses for courses.

 

Bob

 

We have a single Tankwatch on one of our water tanks and has been known to stick in the LED off position, needs a regular tap with something.

[Guest]

A small tip, when using a length of dowel to measure the diesel level. Don't (as most people do) lower it down until it hits the bottom. Not only will that mean you have a very diesel-covered dowel, but also you may stir up the muck at the bottom of the tank and possibly even add little bits of wood to it - apart from the hopefully small risk that you'll make a hole in the bottom of the tank. Much better is to look down the filler hole until you can see the bright reflection from the surface of the diesel and then gently lower the dowel until the surface suddenly shimmers. Holding the dowel as close the the filler as possible, remove it and you can accurately measure the distance from the TOP of the tank to the surface of the diesel. Or you could calibrate the stick. At most you have a drip or two of diesel on the end of the dowel, and you won'y have disturbed the bottom of the tank.

Now why didn't I think of that?

[Bobbybass]

What do you mean by "chip"

 

Sorry...bit technical.

The MSC sender unit (inside) is basically just a pressure sensor and guage/meter amplifier in an 8 pin 'chip' package.

It sits in the middle of the printed circuit board ..is black..about 12mm square...with 8 little legs...

When I blew it on the Thames.....I had to replace it...and rather than solder a new one in and then risk having to do the same at some time...I fitted a holder so that future 'chips' just plug in.

As the chips are so cheap...( Ebay ...LM751..I think ? ) I just bought a few......

I'm not anticipating it blowing again... some of the Thames filler hoses were about 2 inches diameter and the pressure was huge...

It was a snug fit in my water tank top and when missus Bob switched it on.....whammy...balloon tank and guage off the scale !!!

 

Bob

[RLWP]

A small tip, when using a length of dowel to measure the diesel level. Don't (as most people do) lower it down until it hits the bottom. Not only will that mean you have a very diesel-covered dowel, but also you may stir up the muck at the bottom of the tank and possibly even add little bits of wood to it - apart from the hopefully small risk that you'll make a hole in the bottom of the tank. Much better is to look down the filler hole until you can see the bright reflection from the surface of the diesel and then gently lower the dowel until the surface suddenly shimmers. Holding the dowel as close the the filler as possible, remove it and you can accurately measure the distance from the TOP of the tank to the surface of the diesel. Or you could calibrate the stick. At most you have a drip or two of diesel on the end of the dowel, and you won'y have disturbed the bottom of the tank.

 

Rather than faff about peering down the hole, fit a cross bar to your dipstick so it almost reaches the bottom of the tank but not quite.

 

Richard

[Keeping Up]

Rather than faff about peering down the hole, fit a cross bar to your dipstick so it almost reaches the bottom of the tank but not quite.

 

Richard

You still have a dowel covered in diesel. Much better to have only a couple of drips on the end.

[Guest]

You still have a dowel covered in diesel. Much better to have only a couple of drips on the end.

I agee, mine has a tee bar at the top to stop touching tank bottom, but I will adopt your method in future. Of course I will hold forth to onlookers in years to come, as they stand on the canal bank showing their admiration for this method, whilst I explain how I came up with this rather clever idea after getting diesel everywhere.

 

As an aside, I find a good shake will remove those pesky drips from the end.

[johnjo]

Rather than faff about peering down the hole, fit a cross bar to your dipstick so it almost reaches the bottom of the tank but not quite.

 

Richard

 

 

IIRC, many years ago the petrol delivery tanker drivers used a calibrated brass bar with a tee piece and a rag, no meters then, bet they never had to buy their own fuel

[ditchcrawler]

Sorry...bit technical.

The MSC sender unit (inside) is basically just a pressure sensor and guage/meter amplifier in an 8 pin 'chip' package.

It sits in the middle of the printed circuit board ..is black..about 12mm square...with 8 little legs...

When I blew it on the Thames.....I had to replace it...and rather than solder a new one in and then risk having to do the same at some time...I fitted a holder so that future 'chips' just plug in.

As the chips are so cheap...( Ebay ...LM751..I think ? ) I just bought a few......

I'm not anticipating it blowing again... some of the Thames filler hoses were about 2 inches diameter and the pressure was huge...

It was a snug fit in my water tank top and when missus Bob switched it on.....whammy...balloon tank and guage off the scale !!!

 

Bob

I rebuilt my water pump, but got the head on 180 deg out, so when I connected it up it was inlet to taps and outlet to tank. I had the tank isolated and tested the pump, the Guage shot up as I pumped back against the tank valve. It didn't blow the chip.

[Guest]

IIRC, many years ago the petrol delivery tanker drivers used a calibrated brass bar with a tee piece and a rag, no meters then, bet they never had to buy their own fuel

Please stop!!! Many years ago I worked on maintenance in a road tanker factory. If things were quiet, they would put you on "calibrating." This consisted of filling the tanker with water via a meter, marking a temporary dipstsick as you went along. The fitters would then make an official dipstick using the temporary one. Watching paint dry was infinitely more interesting.

[Bobbybass]

I rebuilt my water pump, but got the head on 180 deg out, so when I connected it up it was inlet to taps and outlet to tank. I had the tank isolated and tested the pump, the Guage shot up as I pumped back against the tank valve. It didn't blow the chip.

Pumping back against the tank wouldn't be so bad I guess .....as the tank will have a breather..

Pumping high pressure into the tank will exert all of that pressure (compressed air above the water ) into the 'culdesac' of the water pump inlet...which will be higher....

HOWEVER.....how did we get to this anyway...I was only answering the threads question that generally asked what guages people have ?

Wasn't really an enquiry into how I fixed my guage...wish I'd never answered now.

 

[PeterG]

What type of sender units are used by people in the grey water tanks, for those of you of course that have one.

 

I have a personal interest as my gauge shows empty for a long time and then very quickly goes to full and would like to change this for something more useful. Unfortunately not on the boat at the moment so not not sure what type I have.