Isuzu engine stop solenoid

[David Mack]

Or remove the solenoid altogether and connect a cable back to a pull-to-stop knob by the steering position.

[Kathymel]

My turn to have this issue now.

 

4LB1 33hp.

Solenoid part no. MV1-77 897209-1140

 

My stop button is taking longer and longer to stop the engine. Having read this thread, I guess the first thing to do is take some WD40 and a hammer to it. 
 

If it fails completely, are there any updates to the comments already made? Engines Plus don’t have the part listed so I’ve emailed them and am waiting for a reply. There are some listings on eBay that say they will replace a solenoid in a 4LB1, but the part no. they list as replacing is not the same as mine, so I doubt they will work.

 

I’d be grateful for any suggestions including how you go about installing a manual engine stop. 
 

Thanks, Kathy

[ditchcrawler]

4 minutes ago, Kathymel said:

My turn to have this issue now.

 

4LB1 33hp.

Solenoid part no. MV1-77 897209-1140

 

My stop button is taking longer and longer to stop the engine. Having read this thread, I guess the first thing to do is take some WD40 and a hammer to it. 
 

If it fails completely, are there any updates to the comments already made? Engines Plus don’t have the part listed so I’ve emailed them and am waiting for a reply. There are some listings on eBay that say they will replace a solenoid in a 4LB1, but the part no. they list as replacing is not the same as mine, so I doubt they will work.

 

I’d be grateful for any suggestions including how you go about installing a manual engine stop. 
 

Thanks, Kathy

Check that you are actually getting full voltage on the solenoid terminals as soon as you press the stop button, it could be a bad connection somewhere.

[Kathymel]

7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Check that you are actually getting full voltage on the solenoid terminals as soon as you press the stop button, it could be a bad connection somewhere.

Thanks. I did a visual inspection and there’s no obvious bad connections or corrosion, but it was getting dark and the pub is calling, so I’ll get on that first thing in the morning. 

[ditchcrawler]

14 minutes ago, Kathymel said:

Thanks. I did a visual inspection and there’s no obvious bad connections or corrosion, but it was getting dark and the pub is calling, so I’ll get on that first thing in the morning. 

Possibly a plug in the wiring loom.

[Mike Adams]

1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

guess the first thing to do is take some WD40 and a hammer to it. 

That is definitely not going to help. As previously said there is a multi-pin connector on the engine loom that is prone to poor connection. It is quite easy to fit a mechanical stop as there is a lever next to where the throttle control goes on to the engine. You can find a stop cable on ebay or even a bit of string depending on the arrangement

[Kathymel]

6 hours ago, Mike Adams said:

That is definitely not going to help. As previously said there is a multi-pin connector on the engine loom that is prone to poor connection. It is quite easy to fit a mechanical stop as there is a lever next to where the throttle control goes on to the engine. You can find a stop cable on ebay or even a bit of string depending on the arrangement

The OP managed to get his going again with WD40 and a few taps of a hammer. 

[blackrose]

8 hours ago, Mike Adams said:

It is quite easy to fit a mechanical stop as there is a lever next to where the throttle control goes on to the engine. You can find a stop cable on ebay or even a bit of string depending on the arrangement

 

That's what I did on my Isuzu 55.

 

A plug on the back of the panel behind the button had worked itself loose and I was a bit shocked when I couldn't stop the engine. The problem was easy enough to fix by simply getting behind the panel and pushing that loose connection together, but I realised you need an alternative mechanical means of shutting the engine down, so I fitted an engine stop cable.

 

Imagine an emergency situation where you couldn't stop the engine. Shouldn't a mechanical stop be mandatory?

 

I just drilled a hole in a convenient place to fit the engine stop cable. You just need to work out roughly what length cable you need with some string and fit it with cable ties in a couple of places.

 

 

2 hours ago, Kathymel said:

The OP managed to get his going again with WD40 and a few taps of a hammer. 

 

Yes I often feel like taking a hammer to things when they go wrong - I'm sure many of us get similarly frustrated - but it's really best to restrain oneself and fix it properly! 😋

Edited October 15, 2023 by blackrose

[Tony Brooks]

4 hours ago, blackrose said:

Shouldn't a mechanical stop be mandatory?

 

Which the majority of inline injector pump engines have, if the owners can be bothered to find the lever or diaphragm. The energise to run solenoids on things like the Bosch rotary are the ones that don't

[blackrose]

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Which the majority of inline injector pump engines have, if the owners can be bothered to find the lever or diaphragm. 

 

Yes but I meant shouldn't it be mandatory as a safety feature for the lever or diaphragm on the engine to be connected to a pull cable as standard, so owners don't have to find it and fit the pull cable themselves? Because let's face it, most owners won't bother or might not have the necessary DIY aptitude, but might need to kill the engine in an emergency situation where the solenoid fails for some reason.

[ditchcrawler]

8 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Yes but I meant shouldn't it be mandatory as a safety feature for the lever or diaphragm on the engine to be connected to a pull cable as standard, so owners don't have to find it and fit the pull cable themselves? Because let's face it, most owners won't bother or might not have the necessary DIY aptitude, but might need to kill the engine in an emergency situation where the solenoid fails for some reason.

I think in the early days it was a BSS requirement but went with the solid drawn copper cable. I am sure I read it when I was fitting the boat out. CRT were not so keen on publishing the requirements then, only the inspectors had easy access to them. 

[Scholar Gypsy]

On 28/09/2009 at 20:27, nb Innisfree said:

 

Ours was a fail safe i.e. solenoid energises to switch fuel on. I assume they are all the same

I would say that is fail unsafe, as if there is a problem with that electrical circuit the engine might decide to stop at a most inconvenient moment!

[Kathymel]

On 15/10/2023 at 03:09, blackrose said:

 

That's what I did on my Isuzu 55.

 

A plug on the back of the panel behind the button had worked itself loose and I was a bit shocked when I couldn't stop the engine. The problem was easy enough to fix by simply getting behind the panel and pushing that loose connection together, but I realised you need an alternative mechanical means of shutting the engine down, so I fitted an engine stop cable.

 

Imagine an emergency situation where you couldn't stop the engine. Shouldn't a mechanical stop be mandatory?

 

I just drilled a hole in a convenient place to fit the engine stop cable. You just need to work out roughly what length cable you need with some string and fit it with cable ties in a couple of places.

 

 

 

Yes I often feel like taking a hammer to things when they go wrong - I'm sure many of us get similarly frustrated - but it's really best to restrain oneself and fix it properly! 😋

Of course, but if it keeps it going for long enough to do a proper fix

[ditchcrawler]

4 hours ago, Kathymel said:

Of course, but if it keeps it going for long enough to do a proper fix

I thought keeping going wasn't the problem, I thought it was stopping