Kathymel

Sorry for the delay in replying. I’ve still got issues so I came back to read through the thread again. I’m a bit discouraged to learn that you top up the corrosion inhibitor every two years. The whole point of my using the 10 year Ford was so I wouldn’t have to worry about degrading corrosion inhibitor. Is the Ford claim that the corrosion inhibiting aspect of the coolant lasts up to 10 years not realistic?

Thanks for that. I was kind of thinking that might be the best for now until I can get to a Ford garage, but it’s good to hear someone else say it.

Sadly, no. There’s only one seller on eBay that does click and collect and they only have 1l of ready mixed left and I need more. I have now found Prestone on Amazon though so maybe I’ll ignore the purist on the motor forum and get that. They do guarantee compatibility (though I’m going to end up with mud-coloured coolant).

Thanks, I’ll have a read. I suggested a similar universal one (Holts G12+/G13 and several other letters) on the motor forum and there was a bit of a sucking in of air through teeth. I don’t know why the manufacturer would make the claim if it wasn’t true but someone who knows more than me (antifreeze is too flipping varied these days!) said they wouldn’t be happy with something that claimed to be such an all-rounder 🤔 Maybe it’s ok if you’re not a purist? I don’t know enough. Thanks. I’ll look them up and give them a ring tomorrow.

Hello. I had a small leak in my coolant system. I’ve used the spare antifreeze I had left over which brought it up to the bottom of the header tank, but I’m really struggling to get hold of some more. I need to use eBay click and collect or Amazon lockers but Ford won’t deliver that way and I can’t find anyone else who does. Can anyone suggest something that may mix with the Ford? I’ve tried a motor forum but mostly got US suggestions which didn’t lead to a solution. I’m on the south Stratford and don’t have a car. Thanks in advance.

I came here on the off chance that someone might have some information about hose IDs on this engine after one of mine sprung a leak and I just want to say, I bloody love you!

Of course, but if it keeps it going for long enough to do a proper fix

The OP managed to get his going again with WD40 and a few taps of a hammer.

Thanks. I did a visual inspection and there’s no obvious bad connections or corrosion, but it was getting dark and the pub is calling, so I’ll get on that first thing in the morning.

My turn to have this issue now. 4LB1 33hp. Solenoid part no. MV1-77 897209-1140 My stop button is taking longer and longer to stop the engine. Having read this thread, I guess the first thing to do is take some WD40 and a hammer to it. If it fails completely, are there any updates to the comments already made? Engines Plus don’t have the part listed so I’ve emailed them and am waiting for a reply. There are some listings on eBay that say they will replace a solenoid in a 4LB1, but the part no. they list as replacing is not the same as mine, so I doubt they will work. I’d be grateful for any suggestions including how you go about installing a manual engine stop. Thanks, Kathy

I was trying to comply with the instructions. If the instructions are over complicated, that’s hardly my fault. Thanks very much Tracey. Much appreciated.

Good evening, I’ve just received a replacement R&D coupling along with instructions. Seems very straightforward except there’s no way of getting a socket on to the bolt heads to get the torque right. I can’t find a torque wrench that takes open ended spanner heads that doesn’t require me to mortgage the boat. So my question is, how important are the torque settings and is there a guesstimate I can use? Cheers, Kathy

Thanks for the link, Alan. The figures you’ve quoted from appendix G are for unsealed batteries. If I decide on an interior siting for my ‘sealed’ batteries, I won’t be keeping them in an unventilated space, as I mentioned earlier, they will be ventilated to the exterior.

Thanks Jen, I have a fair bit of moveable ballast in the form of steel bars and a great deal of wood on the roof that I’m used to moving to adjust my trim. Kathy

Noted, thanks.

Thanks for this, Slim. I would definitely need to split the bank as there isn’t sufficient height directly below the exhaust. I did think putting one forward of the exhaust would work, if I choose to go that route. I also wondered about increasing the lagging on the exhaust or installing a heat shield. Is there any any chance of a couple of photos of your set-up or perhaps some measurements to give me an idea of the clearances you have? Thanks again.

Thanks. I have ‘sealed’ batteries. Are there ventilation specifications for them? Could you provide me with a link to the appendices, please? I can’t see them where I’m looking.

The main objective has evolved as it’s gone along. The original need was to rationalise and shorten the cable paths. The current set-up is messy and illogical and the cables from the two separate systems are constantly crossing one another. The battery box is also in need of enlarging/replacement and the area around it needs a lot of work. Moving the leisure system to the other side puts it immediately below the fuse panel and neatens up a lot of wandering wires. The main battery fuse and isolator are currently situated at the rear of the bank, so moving them forward, even when on the other side will mean the cable run to the inverter is the same distance. All this remains true if I go with the under steps option. So, there is a lot more going on than just painting. ?

Thanks everyone. My next question was was about ventilation and you’ve clarified it nicely. The old toilet tank air vent hose is still lurking under the bed. I can repurpose that.

Well ok, maybe not a huge difference to where I was thinking of putting them, but the way the wiring is now, putting them inside would get rid of about 3 meters. Some of that wiring is way too thin and needs replacing, so every little helps.

Thanks Bizzard. That’s not a bad idea at all. It never occurred to me to bring them indoors. One of the reasons I’m changing the layout is the unnecessary length of cables in the current set-up. Putting them under the step would make a huge difference to that.

Thanks Alan, When I get a response, I’ll ask them. It’s interesting that there is no hard and fast rule though. I might have to do some temperature tests.

Thanks Wotever, Common sense it is for now, then. ??

I’m not asking people to guess what my BSS inspector’s opinion is going to be - until I get a reply to my email, it’s not even a given who that will be - I’m asking if anyone on here has an opinion. It’s fine if you don’t have one but, if you don’t mind, I’ll wait to see if other people have anything to say on the matter.

Because he’s not due for a month and I thought someone on here might know.