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Attempted break in - any advice?


Lady Muck

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We just returned to our boat after five days away to find that someone attempted to break in. We have a yale lock on the door, looks like they tried to prise the front doors open with a screwdriver, fortunately the doors are very flush fitted together so even when they are prised open, its incredibly hard to get the screwdriver in a position where you can force the lock. Seems like they were disturbed or they gave up.

 

Our first lesson learned is to remove the cratch cover when we are away, thus removing the convenient 'hidey hole' for the villain. Fortunately there was nothing of any value onboard, we always take it with us.

 

Of course I am quite irritated - we have no gas at the moment, we're fitting a new regulator to replace the leaky one once it's light tomorrow, now it looks like I'll have to take the front door apart as well and refit the lock as the burglar managed to sprain it to the point it ripped the board to which it is fixed and it also pulled some screws out.

 

The other worry is our diesel tank - perhaps I'm being more than a bit paranoid, but my neighbours hosepipe was switched on (he's away too), we've been a bit shoddy about filling in the log book recently, I swear we ran the engine since we filled up, but the diesel tank is literally brimming. Just a bit worried, because there is hardly anyone on the marina this week and I just found the hose pipe connected and the water tap on. How do I tell if there's water in my diesel tank? I.e. not the hard way?

Edited by Lady Muck
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We just returned to our boat after five days away to find that someone attempted to break in. We have a yale lock on the door, looks like they tried to prise the front doors open with a screwdriver, fortunately the doors are very flush fitted together so even when they are prised open, its incredibly hard to get the screwdriver in a position where you can force the lock. Seems like they were disturbed or they gave up.

 

Our first lesson learned is to remove the cratch cover when we are away, thus removing the convenient 'hidey hole' for the villain. Fortunately there was nothing of any value onboard, we always take it with us.

 

Of course I am more than a bit irritated - we have no gas at the moment, we're fitting a new regulator to replace the leaky one once it's light tomorrow, now it looks like I'll have to take the front door apart as well and refit the lock as the burglar managed to sprain it to the point it ripped the board to which it is fixed and it also pulled some screws out.

 

The other worry is our diesel tank - perhaps I'm being more than a bit paranoid, but my neighbours hosepipe was switched on (he's away too), we've been a bit shoddy about filling in the log book recently, I swear we ran the engine since we filled up, but the diesel tank is literally brimming. Just a bit worried, because there is hardly anyone on the marina this week and I just found the hose pipe connected and the water tap on. How do I tell if there's water in my diesel tank? I.e. not the hard way?

 

Very sorry to hear of your attempted break-in but as you say at least they gave up before they actually got in.

 

To test the diesel tank I do the following.

 

Using a narrow pipe (say something like an air line for a fish tank i.e. about 5mm internal diameter) attach it to a length of stick to dip into the tank

so that you can get the pipe end right down into the bottom of the tank. Then you can siphon off a small amount into a clear bottle e.g. a cola bottle. You will soon be able to tell if it is water and if you sample a bit higher (so you get diesel) up the tank into the bottle you will see a layer anyway The Diesel/water emulsion will smell and look different to the actual diesel.

 

I have often tested and then drained off water from the bottom of static disel tanks this way. The smaller pipe will take a while but it has the advantage of not disturbing the oil water layering. I shall do the same to my boat in the spring.

Edited by churchward
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Having been a victim of vehicle break-ins a number of times I know whats it's like to have your 'personal space' defiled.

At least they did not get into your boat which indicates that your security is doing its job.

 

For anyone who is reading this its always a good practice to remove any valuable items from your boat even for short periods. Ok there is very little we can do to prevent a determined thief from breaking in, but at least if there is nothing to nick then at least we can make their efforts a waste of time.

 

Makes you feel like setting up a booby trap, but of course in our do gooder society its illegal.

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If your filler pipe is straight, you could dip the tank with a piece of clear plastic tube which is open both ends, the smaller the diameter the better. If you put the tube to the bottom of the tank, then seal the top tightly with your finger or putty etc, when you lift it back out, the contents will be retained by air pressure, just like using a pippette at school. You can then see the amount of water in the tank, if any.

 

Roger

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We have steel front doors, a stable door arrangement, so I have always felt safe about leaving the boat somewhere for a week or two. Of course the external padlock is still do-able with a bolt cutter, but not with a screwdriver however large. I remember a policeman telling me that screwdrivers were the tool of choice for the forced entry.

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We just returned to our boat after five days away to find that someone attempted to break in. We have a yale lock on the door, looks like they tried to prise the front doors open with a screwdriver, fortunately the doors are very flush fitted together so even when they are prised open, its incredibly hard to get the screwdriver in a position where you can force the lock. Seems like they were disturbed or they gave up.

 

Our first lesson learned is to remove the cratch cover when we are away, thus removing the convenient 'hidey hole' for the villain. Fortunately there was nothing of any value onboard, we always take it with us.

 

Of course I am quite irritated - we have no gas at the moment, we're fitting a new regulator to replace the leaky one once it's light tomorrow, now it looks like I'll have to take the front door apart as well and refit the lock as the burglar managed to sprain it to the point it ripped the board to which it is fixed and it also pulled some screws out.

 

The other worry is our diesel tank - perhaps I'm being more than a bit paranoid, but my neighbours hosepipe was switched on (he's away too), we've been a bit shoddy about filling in the log book recently, I swear we ran the engine since we filled up, but the diesel tank is literally brimming. Just a bit worried, because there is hardly anyone on the marina this week and I just found the hose pipe connected and the water tap on. How do I tell if there's water in my diesel tank? I.e. not the hard way?

 

 

Hi There

 

Because I do leave my boat all around the country for weeks at a time, I have made a sign with contact telephone numbers on it

I have now included 'No valubles are left on board' hoping it might deter some towrags.

I been searching for a 12V PIR (without success) to fit on the deck and to automaticaly switch on my deck lights (and tunnel light) if anyone steps aboard.

Hopefully one of our members may know of one.

 

Alex

Edited by steelaway
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Hi There

 

Because I do leave my boat all around the country for weeks at a time, I have made a sign with contact telephone numbers on it

I have now included 'No valubles are left on board' hoping it might deter some towrags.

I been searching for a 12V PIR (without success) to fit on the deck and to automaticaly switch on my deck lights (and tunnel light) if anyone steps aboard.

Hopefully one of our members may know of one.

 

Alex

 

PIRs are always 12v!

 

You would need a 12v relay in line (partly because the load on the PIR contacts would be too large, but mainly because the PIR alarm contacts are NO, and you want a NC contact to switch the light.

 

Any wired alarm PIR will do the trick.

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Hi There

 

Because I do leave my boat all around the country for weeks at a time, I have made a sign with contact telephone numbers on it

I have now included 'No valubles are left on board' hoping it might deter some towrags.

I been searching for a 12V PIR (without success) to fit on the deck and to automaticaly switch on my deck lights (and tunnel light) if anyone steps aboard.

Hopefully one of our members may know of one.

 

Alex

 

Hi.

 

Think I spotted your boat on the T&M a while back. (won't say where if you do leave it un-attended). Very handy for the pub.

 

Strange you should mention 12v PIR's as I've been looking at ftting something at either end of the boat to turn a light on when I come back to the boat in the dark.

 

I've attached the links for buying the pirs and one for a project someone has worked on that may be useful.

 

http://www.solarkitsdirect.co.uk/Solar-Sec...nsor-/p-72-230/

 

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/36030/Lighti...r&source=aw

 

http://www.totalrobots.com/pir-motion-sens...products_id=447

 

http://www.robcollingridge.com/projects/1-..._PIR/index.html

 

Mine's still a 'thought in progress' so if you come up with any ideas I'd be interested in hearing them.

 

The screwfix model takes batteries so doesn't need to be wired into the boats system and seems to be waterproof as it's designed for sheds etc - seems a bit bulky though.

 

Mike

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I take it your not on mains electric? As a light useing a timer would be good.

But failing that heres a number of tips,

1, Join the RBOA only £15 per year, the point being you get two RBOA window stickers.

What im saying is a tea-leaf is less likley to break in knowing people are living aboad the boat and may well get a good hiding.

2 dont throw away your old shoes, but leave them in the cratch, giving the idea people are on the boat.

3 leave a small radio on, R4 is best as its mostly talking and sounds like people are home.

Kristian.

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I take it your not on mains electric? As a light useing a timer would be good.

But failing that heres a number of tips,

1, Join the RBOA only £15 per year, the point being you get two RBOA window stickers.

What im saying is a tea-leaf is less likley to break in knowing people are living aboad the boat and may well get a good hiding.

2 dont throw away your old shoes, but leave them in the cratch, giving the idea people are on the boat.

3 leave a small radio on, R4 is best as its mostly talking and sounds like people are home.

Kristian.

 

Yes we've got mains and a timer soI'll be doing the light thing from now on. I've done some asking around today, seems I'm not the only one who was done. My neighbours shed was broken into - they used bolt cutters to cut the hasp on his padlock, also both lock cottages were as well but nothing was taken. Phew!

 

From now on a light will be left on every time we are away. Can anyone find blue string puddings thread? She mentioned using 12v fairy lights running off a solar panel - sounds like a good solution for when we are cruising. We had all our curtains open, but no sign re. valuables. I like the shoes idea too - thanks!

 

We will also fit a chub lock to the front door, to help strengthen things - I am glad my steel doors held out!

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Yes we've got mains and a timer soI'll be doing the light thing from now on. I've done some asking around today, seems I'm not the only one who was done. My neighbours shed was broken into - they used bolt cutters to cut the hasp on his padlock, also both lock cottages were as well but nothing was taken. Phew!

 

From now on a light will be left on every time we are away. Can anyone find blue string puddings thread? She mentioned using 12v fairy lights running off a solar panel - sounds like a good solution for when we are cruising. We had all our curtains open, but no sign re. valuables. I like the shoes idea too - thanks!

 

We will also fit a chub lock to the front door, to help strengthen things - I am glad my steel doors held out!

 

I'm sure on E-bay some time back someone was selling old nokias converted to call a set number if the room/area pir was activated. I looked at using one of these for my caravan. Try searching ebay ??

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I'm sure on E-bay some time back someone was selling old nokias converted to call a set number if the room/area pir was activated. I looked at using one of these for my caravan. Try searching ebay ??

My bilge alarm setup can have a PIR connected but it might be a bit pricey, just to let you know you've been burgled (though I think it can trigger a cctv, too).

 

They don't seem to do the battery one, anymore but if you've got 240V:

 

maplin

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They don't seem to do the battery one, any more but if you've got 240V:

This one's similar to mine:

 

Clicky

 

Im pleased to report that Haringey Police are alot better than the social services! I've had six phonecalls and a visit from forensics within an hour!

That's pretty impressive!

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PIRs are always 12v!

 

You would need a 12v relay in line (partly because the load on the PIR contacts would be too large, but mainly because the PIR alarm contacts are NO, and you want a NC contact to switch the light.

 

Any wired alarm PIR will do the trick.

 

 

Hi There

 

Thanks for that - I certainly wouldn't have guessed they are 12v.

I'll make a relay panel up.

I already have two 35mm halogens in the ends of my deck rails that shine onto the rear bulkhead operated by a waterproof swich under the rails.

I can also wire them through the relay to and to operate the tunnel light, Im sure that light coming on will suprise any towrags up to no good.

I've just realised it could also be made to operate the horn -- now that would give them a shock!!!

 

 

Hi.

 

Think I spotted your boat on the T&M a while back. (won't say where if you do leave it un-attended). Very handy for the pub.

 

Strange you should mention 12v PIR's as I've been looking at ftting something at either end of the boat to turn a light on when I come back to the boat in the dark.

Mine's still a 'thought in progress' so if you come up with any ideas I'd be interested in hearing them.

 

The screwfix model takes batteries so doesn't need to be wired into the boats system and seems to be waterproof as it's designed for sheds etc - seems a bit bulky though.

 

Mike

 

 

Hi Mike

 

Thanks for all the links Mike

I let you know how I go one.

I do have 240V - but only leave the bilge pumps switched on when I leave it.

 

Had the rear cover sunk with the rain when you passed? - not seen it for a month.

I have tied to get it a bit nearer to the pub without success - yet

 

Alex

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Mine's still a 'thought in progress' so if you come up with any ideas I'd be interested in hearing them.

 

Mike

 

 

Hi Mike

 

If you PM me I will send you an initial circuit diagram of a PIR operated switch.

I have made inquires about a timer (alarm type) relay that will make the horn/tunnel light flash on&off

This will also reset itself after a few minutes.

 

Alex

Edited by steelaway
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Im pleased to report that Haringey Police are alot better than the social services! I've had six phonecalls and a visit from forensics within an hour!

 

Significantly better than Northamptonshire Police then - we got burgled last year - at Christmas - but the police had a vague interest: after I chased-up with them twice, I gave up. apparently they weren't interested in the 15" screwdriver left, and all the photos I took.

 

Luckily the insurance have paid up, as the theives absolutely cleared everything out - even several cupboards of tins, thick wool rugs, gas bottle, TV, african drum, cutlery, teddy bear, leisure batteries - everything, except the very well chained-up genny!

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Significantly better than Northamptonshire Police then - we got burgled last year - at Christmas - but the police had a vague interest: after I chased-up with them twice, I gave up. apparently they weren't interested in the 15" screwdriver left, and all the photos I took.

 

Luckily the insurance have paid up, as the theives absolutely cleared everything out - even several cupboards of tins, thick wool rugs, gas bottle, TV, african drum, cutlery, teddy bear, leisure batteries - everything, except the very well chained-up genny!

 

They seem to be excellent round here - I got flashed at last year- it was on a match day - the police helicopter was already in action so they sent that and a couple of squad cars. I was a bit embarrased, I'd have been satisfied if they'd just sent one cop on a pushbike.

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I can also wire them through the relay to and to operate the tunnel light, Im sure that light coming on will suprise any towrags up to no good.

I've just realised it could also be made to operate the horn -- now that would give them a shock!!!

 

 

Sorry about repeated posts - but this is one closse to my heart: very nevrous about being away this holiday season too, but family committments, etc.

 

PIR's that are described as 'CMOS' will be 12v - although most technically work on anything from about 7v - to 16v, so are often setup with 9v batteries, like smoke alarms. some cheaper / older electronics is TTL (which uses 5v, or close) these often use 3x AA batteries - eg. radio-control door-bells.

 

I've considered large-scale lighting as described earlier, but we're pretty remote and get more wildlife (sheep, birds & trees moving in the wind) so if you're not careful all you'd get would be flat batteries over a week away.

 

If you're in a marina, or public busy towpath with many neighbours - lights and minor noise would be vey effective: Leicestershire Police were selling (£5 token donation) 'garden shed alarms' which work on a pull-cord. Very noisy, won't drain the battery, but you do have to set-up a cats-cradle of strings that you inevitable end-up setting the alarm off yourself.

 

House burgular alarms often have internal sirens that are really loud - discovered after setting one off once during a power cut.

They're designed to drive the intruder out by sheer discomfort ! (if the outside siren didn't un-nerve them).

I don't believe there's any law against this, although I stand to be advised if anyone knows different.

I'd suggest this would only work with an internal PIR or sensor though, as neighbours would be really upset with false alarms for wild-life at this level of noise. Potentially you could hide an activation switch in cratch or water locker, (or somewhere underdeck for Cruiser-style), or even conveniently inside an air-vent; its only gotta be a switch.

As well as Screwfix (they're stock changes too regularly to list) there's also Maplin, or RS Components - all with online shops.

 

Good luck with the improvements. (one and all as I think most of us have a similar problem).

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