Insulating rear hatch

[stickleback]

Has anyone any good ideas for insulating the rear hatch cover - the sliding metal one? Mine is getting very waterlogged on the underneath and trying to dry it with a chamois leather creates an indoor downpour. Also, I'm sure it will very much warm up the rear end of the boat.

 

I wondered about insulating material - thinsulate sort of stuff - held up with plastic magnets, but I think the humid air will get through and make great wet patches between the metal and the thinsulate.

 

What have the innovative and resourceful people on this site used? Did it work, and most important - was it easy to do???

 

Stickleback

[ChrisPy]

deja vu ?

[valrene9600]

Carpet done the trick on mine. No more condensation. Got the tip from the forum so passing it on.

[charles123]

You only need to stick a layer of thin ply or MDF (MDF comes in bendy type) if your hatch is curved. I would paint first on both sides or varnish to seal the surface before sticking on then stick on with either contact adhesive or grip fill, once on place paint the whole underside undercoat first then gloss to match, will look just fine and match in. I would cut template first in cardboard to be sure your ply will fit. B&Q sell small sheets, I would go for about 6mm

 

Charles

[bottle]

A previous thread:

 

Rear hatch condensation

Edited December 27, 2008 by bottle

[dor]

I fitted a sheet of oak-faced ply with foam insulation behind it.

 

I also used the self-adhesive foam used for sealing windows round the hatch, as I used to get puddles on the floor in the morning. this stopped it compeltely.

[boaterphil]

I fitted a sheet of oak-faced ply with foam insulation behind it.

 

I also used the self-adhesive foam used for sealing windows round the hatch, as I used to get puddles on the floor in the morning. this stopped it compeltely.

when i built my boat I used a piece of hexi grip stuck to the hatch Ialso put a false ceiling of ply which cuts out many of the drafts I don t use the rear doors at all in the winter

[Pie Eater]

I used cork tiles and coated them with varnish.

 

Steve

[PeterF]

I insulated mine with 3mm expanded neoprene which came with a self adhesive backing and this stopped condensation. Only issue has been occaisionally it bubbles when warm and has to be stuck back up.

 

PeterF.

[Jamboat]

Our hatch is lined with oak & is dripping every morning & getting very mildewy so we have bought a cheap 3mm polysterene camping mat (£2.99 ebay) & some spray adhesive. The plan for today is to remove hatch, dry it out & line with matting. Hope this solves it. Watch this space!

 

We also found some mildew in the wardrobe & on a couple of sleeping bags stored under sofa so currently looking into various mini dehumidifiers on amazon & ebay. Has anyone any experience of these, any good?

[alan_fincher]

We also found some mildew in the wardrobe & on a couple of sleeping bags stored under sofa so currently looking into various mini dehumidifiers on amazon & ebay. Has anyone any experience of these, any good?

Are you connected to a 240 volt mains landline?

 

Although the consumption of dehumidifiers doesn't sound a lot, because they often need to be on permanently, you may find consumption is worse than you imagine.

 

Basically they are similar to a fridge, so bargain with the power demands of running a second electric fridge, (assuming you already have an electric fridge!).

 

Usually growing mildew on things is down to poor ventilation, or an area where there are problems with the boat's insulation, (or both). I found some stained boards in an upper corner of a wardrobe on our boat, but when I looked behing the linings, there was a small area where the Rockwool insulation failed to cover the shell. A small piece of new insulation added, and the problem went away.

[Jamboat]

We are on shore power but with an eye to the future when we hope to CC need something that is economical on power so I was thinking about something like this cordless mini dehumidifier

or this ebay

Hope links work!

I had stuffed the wardrobe & obviously restricted ventilation - that's been sorted & we don't really need 2 sleeping bags under the sofa either so only one now.

[stickleback]

Thanks for the advice. I don't think deja vu will be of any use whatever. Carpet or cork sound perfect. I'll sort it out over New Year. Thanks again.

 

Stickleback.

[stickleback]

I insulated mine with 3mm expanded neoprene which came with a self adhesive backing and this stopped condensation. Only issue has been occaisionally it bubbles when warm and has to be stuck back up.

 

PeterF.

 

 

This sounds really good - any suggestions as to where I can find it?? I'd like to buy some and fit it tomorrow. I've just checked space etc and there is plenty of room. Should eliminate a cold spot as well as the wet!

[Iain_S]

We are on shore power but with an eye to the future when we hope to CC need something that is economical on power so I was thinking about something like this cordless mini dehumidifier

 

I use one of these in a small cupboard. The capacity is very low, and it takes a day or so to "recharge" on mains, when any water in it is given off, so best not done n the boat :-) It's OK for a very small space. but overall not very effcient, IMHO

Iain

[Jamboat]

I use one of these in a small cupboard. The capacity is very low, and it takes a day or so to "recharge" on mains, when any water in it is given off, so best not done n the boat :-) It's OK for a very small space. but overall not very effcient, IMHO

Iain

 

Thanks, prob not a good idea then. think what's really needed is some warm, sunny weather-roll on spring !!

[Doorman]

Thanks, prob not a good idea then. think what's really needed is some warm, sunny weather-roll on spring !!

 

Hello,

 

one way to ward off damp in wardrobes etc., is to run either the flow or return of your central heating system (assuming you have one) through the base of the compartment. I used a fin rad which was converted into a square matrix by using a series of 'T' and elbow fittings.

 

This can be done by any DIYer using push fit 22mm HPo2 or similar fittings. Our clothes are always warm and dry, never experiencing damp problems.

 

Mike

[PeterF]

This sounds really good - any suggestions as to where I can find it?? I'd like to buy some and fit it tomorrow. I've just checked space etc and there is plenty of room. Should eliminate a cold spot as well as the wet!

I checked this out and I got it from the internet, a place called coventry industrial supplies, however, I can not find them anymore so perhaps they have gone out of business. Try searching for expanded neoprene sheet self adhesive to come up with other suppliers which is how I found CIS.

 

Peterf

[Jamboat]

Hello,

 

one way to ward off damp in wardrobes etc., is to run either the flow or return of your central heating system (assuming you have one) through the base of the compartment. I used a fin rad which was converted into a square matrix by using a series of 'T' and elbow fittings.

 

This can be done by any DIYer using push fit 22mm HPo2 or similar fittings. Our clothes are always warm and dry, never experiencing damp problems.

 

Mike

 

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the suggestion, unfortuntately we don't have central heating. Our stove & ecofan keeps the boat plenty warm enough except obviously the deeper recesses !

 

We took the hatch off yesterday & replaced the wood liner which was very mildewy with the 3mm foam matting stuck on with spray adhesive - very simple to do & dry as a bone this morning

 

I will keep a close eye on all cupboards ect & make sure all are regularly well aired ( & not stuffed full! )

[stickleback]

I checked this out and I got it from the internet, a place called coventry industrial supplies, however, I can not find them anymore so perhaps they have gone out of business. Try searching for expanded neoprene sheet self adhesive to come up with other suppliers which is how I found CIS.

 

Peterf

 

I did as you suggest and found lots of sources - Leicester and Bishop's Stortford being nearest. However, they seem to be closed for the the Christmas and New Year holiday and as I want to get it done during this cold spell I'm going to try carpet. I've got suitable sized offcuts of the one on the floor so at least it will match!

 

Thanks again for the suggestions from everyone.

 

Stickleback

[Bamboo]

Hatch insulation is definitely on the 'to do' list. Yesterday morning I had to chip a block of ice from around the bolt before I could get out.

 

(yesterday means Sunday, I didn't notice it was after midnight now)

[Baloo]

we have just lined out our steel doors and sliding hatches and the difference in warmth and condensation is very welcome indeed!

What we did was layer up two pieces of 9mm wbp ply and a pice of 6mm veneer faced and glue them together to make panels 24mm thick, then plane the edges to fit inside each steel doors recess.

Immediately before glueing and clamping we applied a bead of expanding foam round the corners of the steel doors. you can still squeeze the wooden panel right into the door recess but the foam should fill any voids, and therefore protect against condensation rotting away at your new doors.

maybe unnecessary i dont' know but peace of mind etc...

[ChrisPy]

we have just lined out our steel doors and sliding hatches and the difference in warmth and condensation is very welcome indeed!

What we did was layer up two pieces of 9mm wbp ply and a pice of 6mm veneer faced and glue them together to make panels 24mm thick, then plane the edges to fit inside each steel doors recess.

Immediately before glueing and clamping we applied a bead of expanding foam round the corners of the steel doors. you can still squeeze the wooden panel right into the door recess but the foam should fill any voids, and therefore protect against condensation rotting away at your new doors.

maybe unnecessary i dont' know but peace of mind etc...

if you use polyurethane glue (can use it in a sealant gun) it sticks like sh*t to a blanket and also expands (not as much as the void-filling sealent variety) to fill the voids. seems to stick anything to anything (often unintended ! so try to keep your fingers clean and definitely wear disposable gloves).

[ditchcrawler]

we have just lined out our steel doors and sliding hatches and the difference in warmth and condensation is very welcome indeed!

What we did was layer up two pieces of 9mm wbp ply and a pice of 6mm veneer faced and glue them together to make panels 24mm thick, then plane the edges to fit inside each steel doors recess.

Immediately before glueing and clamping we applied a bead of expanding foam round the corners of the steel doors. you can still squeeze the wooden panel right into the door recess but the foam should fill any voids, and therefore protect against condensation rotting away at your new doors.

maybe unnecessary i dont' know but peace of mind etc...

My side hatches are steel and 18 mm deep and when I fitted our boat I used 18 mm ply stuck to the side hatches with "Gripfill" I have just removed them and the ply came away first, the Gripfill is still on the steel. The reason for ripping them off is that the bottom inch or so had started to rot. The plan is to glue in 9mm battens and then glue 9mm UPVC barge board from the local UPVC window company. I will let you know how well it performs in another 8 years time