Flooring materials - laminate, lino or other?

[sphillips]

Hello all

 

Looking for some guidance on what to cover the floor of our boat with. It currently has a painted floor, done by the previous owners, but we're looking to make it a bit smarter. I'm thinking some lino or laminate but don't know how well these stand up to boat life. Any suggestions much appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Stephanie

[Alan Saunders]

Nothing wrong with a painted floor if nicely done. Add some decoration with stencils or paint a border defined by masking tape - with some rugs it could look really good. Its not the easy option that it seems but it removes the limitations of commercially available colours and patterns.

 

Plastic laminate flooring looks, to me, like plastic, the real wood version is expensive. You can get vinyl in 'non-slip when wet' grades which might be appropriate. If I had a sufficient budget I would use linoleum cut in a suitable pattern. Carpet tiles are often recommended as you can easily replace those that are damaged or worn.

 

The confines of a boat, especially a narrow-boat, mean there will be high wear areas, on the other hand the total floor area is so small compared to even a small flat you can afford to use expensive coverings or replace (e.g. carpet) frequently.

 

I have a shower room/toilet opposite some bunks so I have used a vinyl floor covering plus a washable bath mat but there is a removable 'fitted' carpet which is laid over the vinyl when the space is used as a bedroom.

 

It depends on how you use your boat. A rather smart (loft style) boat I visited recently required 'shoes off' in the engine room - my guests expect to traipse the length of the boat in muddy boots. In any case a continuity of floor covering throughout will give an illusion of space.

 

Alan

[ChrisPy]

Plastic laminate flooring looks, to me, like plastic, the real wood version is expensive.  You can get vinyl in 'non-slip when wet' grades which might be appropriate.  If I had a sufficient budget I would use linoleum cut in a suitable pattern.  Carpet tiles are often recommended as you can easily replace those that are damaged or worn.

 

The confines of a boat, especially a narrow-boat, mean there will be high wear areas, on the other hand the total floor area is so small compared to even a small flat you can afford to use expensive coverings or replace (e.g. carpet) frequently.

 

Alan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I would use real wood laminate flooring if everything else was equal, and actually it does not work out that expensive. Where I have used floors2go malaysian oak at home it worked out at about £20 per sq.m. which is a lot in a house, but is not much for the clear floor area of an average boat (say £300). It looks fantastic. The only difficulty is fitting around obstructions without leaving a big margin. The beadings supplied for the room margins are awful, and I always remove and replace all the skirtings instead. Not sure how you would deal with that in a boat.

 

The reason I won't be using it is that I am nervous about having to take it up in the future to fix problems below the floor. No doubt after 5 years with no problems (fingers crossed) I will feel confident enough to use it. For the present I will probably use carpet tiles or cork tiles that are easily ripped up individually and replaced if necessary.

[timboharticus]

I like cork tiles but laminate and rugs sounds good.

[awatsonbcp]

our floor is covered with Flotex which is guaranteed for life by the manufacturer

and is resistant to just about everything including paint petrol etc

 

only problem is the range of colours and patterns which were obviously designed by somebody's granny in 1945

 

cleans up well doesnt hold dirt can be scrubbed vac'd brushed

there is a newer range of it as floor tiles too

 

try their website www.flotex.co.uk sorry cant do a link yet!

[John Orentas]

I hate laminate floors in boats, houses or anywhere. I have never found anything better that a reasonable quality Axeminster woven type carpet, easily cleaned and available in bright primary colours. Lino looks ok in the galley and bathroom areas.

 

As Awat' says non woven types only seem to be made in terrible drab colours.

[DHutch]

We have high quality marine grade vinyl in at the back, then the exposed plywood in the engine room, carpet tiles in the galley and carpet in the front cabin.

 

-The vinyl is great and comes it really nice colours and although its expesive, it will last a life time and 5sqm did the two rooms.

-Plywood isnt pritty, with newpaper to soak up the oil, but its only the engine room.

-Carpet tiles where 2nd hand out of skip, they only last 2/3 years, but they where free, and will still have enought left to recover it!

-The carpet is nice in the tiny from cabin, but it mainly cover witha cheap rug to protect it!

 

Also, we have flotex in our dinning room at home and its great, has done 17years of abuse (three small kids, two dogs and plenty spills) and the patterns are much better now than they where back then.

 

 

Daniel

[stuart]

Would you believe that Flotex even have a website to advertise there drab carpets!

 

http://www.flotex.co.uk/

[bottle]

Yes great is it not I rather like the mosaic tile efect

[Clive A]

I would suggest that no one uses standard laminate flooring on boats. As a carpenter, I have often had to replace floors in houses that had used it incorrectly. The construction of most laminate flooring is 17 mm of MDF with a 1/2 mm laminate (similar to worktops). The action of water on MDF in disastrous, as it causes it to swell - the floor often bulging in the middle. It is possible to buy laminate designed for high moisture environments (bathrooms, kitchens) but as a carpenter, my suggestion is either real wood flooring ( I've seen some as low as £20/sq m) or laminated wood flooring (made of a sandwich similar to plywood, but top layer is about 5 mm). In the future, either of these options will allow you rectify surface damage by sanding back and revarnishing.

[John Orentas]

Why does everyone assume that boats are always damp, they should not be any more damp than a house. If a boat shows signs of any kind of dampness it should be investigated and put right.

 

Don't just select materials that will tolerate it.

[bottle]

We do not assume, that boats are damp, but why not use items that can withstand it.

 

Better safe than sorry.

[dor]

he construction of most laminate flooring is 17 mm of MDF with a 1/2 mm laminate

 

I don't want to argue with a professional as I am sure your experience of these things is much greater than mine.

 

However I put down laminate flooring in my conservatory. Cheapo cheapo - even cheaper while on offer - laminate floor from B&Q.

 

It is about 6 mm thick and solid - a bit like the old formica. Definitely not MDF. I would expect it to withstand water quite well. Laid on a thin layer of foam and glued on the edges.

[ChrisPy]

I don't want to argue with a professional as I am sure your experience of these things is much greater than mine.

 

However I put down laminate flooring in my conservatory.  Cheapo cheapo - even cheaper while on offer - laminate floor from B&Q.

 

It is about 6 mm thick and solid - a bit like the old formica. Definitely not MDF. I would expect it to withstand water quite well. Laid on a thin layer of foam and glued on the edges.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

absolutely, it is very hard, brittle and appears to be totally impervious. that's why it is used on kitchen and bathroom floors that are likely to get much wetter than your boat.

[Alan Saunders]

Why does everyone assume that boats are always damp, they should not be any more damp than a house.  If a boat shows signs of any kind of dampness it should be investigated and put right.

 

Don't just select materials that will tolerate it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Undoubtedly, boats have more opportunity to become damp than houses. Water can pour in through open windows or doors from gate paddles or lock walls. Any uninsulated areas can drip (unseen) with condensation and single glazed windows or metal frames will produce litres of condensation, mostly at night when the heating is off. Galley & shower may result in spilt water & certainly a high level of condensation. Rain will enter through open doors occasionally. In my experience all fittings, windows, ventilators etc, will eventually leak as rust displaces the sealant. All this and moisture brought in on boots and clothing is more significant in 1,400 cubic feet of boat cabin than in 7,500 cubic feet of a small cottage.

 

Usually, the underfloor ventilation in a boat is not adequate to dry out the accumulated water. Houses have either a massive concrete floor with a waterproof membrane or a suspended floor with a relatively large ventilated space and 9" air-bricks every couple of metres. Even so, adequate heating and ventilation are essential.

 

'Clive A' is absolutely right. Most laminate flooring is not suitable for use in a kitchen or bathroom. B&Q do an Aqua-Floor for these areas at ~£15/m2. But if a sealed floor does get wet and a little moisture seeps through some gaps it can only dry out from below.

 

Many older houses are damp with attendant wet & dry rot. We expect to use a house 365 days a year for a hundred years or so; a holiday boat, used for perhaps one tenth of that time, and mostly in the summer, may not show the symptoms of damp for several years. On the other hand a house (or boat), continuously heated and properly ventilated may last forever.

 

Do not assume that plastic foams are waterproof, closed cell. The ordinary polystyrene foam used in cavity walls and for boat insulation absorbs water - which rather defeats its purpose. A building's cavity wall will be provided with sufficient ventilation to dry out any moisture accumulated in the worst conditions. How much ventilation does your boat's cavity wall, ceiling and floor have?

 

I agree that damp should be investigated & put right but often it is only possible at the design stage. A man-made fibre carpet over an unsealed ply floor may be better than any vapour proof barrier - e.g. paint, varnish, lino, vinyl, laminate - so long as the boat is well ventilated subsequent to any damp ingress. Most people I discuss this with say their boat is perfectly dry but then admit that they have never actually looked under the floorboards!

 

Alan

[dor]

Undoubtedly, boats have more opportunity to become damp than houses. Water can pour in through open windows or doors from gate paddles or lock walls. Any uninsulated areas can drip (unseen) with condensation and single glazed windows or metal frames will produce litres of condensation, mostly at night when the heating is off. Galley & shower may result in spilt water & certainly a high level of condensation. Rain will enter through open doors occasionally. In my experience all fittings, windows, ventilators etc, will eventually leak as rust displaces the sealant. All this and moisture brought in on boots and clothing is more significant in 1,400 cubic feet of boat cabin than in 7,500 cubic feet of a small cottage.

 

Usually, the underfloor ventilation in a boat is not adequate to dry out the accumulated water. Houses have either a massive concrete floor with a waterproof membrane or a suspended floor with a relatively large ventilated space and 9" air-bricks every couple of metres. Even so, adequate heating and ventilation are essential.

 

'Clive A' is absolutely right. Most laminate flooring is not suitable for use in a kitchen or bathroom. B&Q do an Aqua-Floor for these areas at ~£15/m2. But if a sealed floor does get wet and a little moisture seeps through some gaps it can only dry out from below.

 

Many older houses are damp with attendant wet & dry rot. We expect to use a house 365 days a year for a hundred years or so; a holiday boat, used for perhaps one tenth of that time, and mostly in the summer, may not show the symptoms of damp for several years. On the other hand a house (or boat), continuously heated and properly ventilated may last forever.

 

Do not assume that plastic foams are waterproof, closed cell. The ordinary polystyrene foam used in cavity walls and for boat insulation absorbs water - which rather defeats its purpose. A building's cavity wall will be provided with sufficient ventilation to dry out any moisture accumulated in the worst conditions. How much ventilation does your boat's cavity wall, ceiling and floor have?

 

I agree that damp should be investigated & put right but often it is only possible at the design stage. A man-made fibre carpet over an unsealed ply floor may be better than any vapour proof barrier - e.g. paint, varnish, lino, vinyl, laminate - so long as the boat is well ventilated subsequent to any damp ingress. Most people I discuss this with say their boat is perfectly dry but then admit that they have never actually looked under the floorboards!

 

Errr , here here!!!

[sphillips]

Dear all

 

Thanks for all your comments and advice, they really are much appreciated I'm currently checking out the lovely flotex website and also thinking carpet tiles might be the way to go - I think I've been pursuaded against laminate!

 

Cheers

 

Stephanie

[gaggle]

sellotape a sqaure of plastic to a floor seal around the edges and inspect the underside the following morning.the wetter it is the bigger the problem,well thats how we tested for moisture in solid floors,principle is the same though.gaggle

[Ray]

Time has moved on. It is now almost three years since the last post on this thread. Have things changed?

 

We're getting to the point where, hopefully, we will soon be laying floor covering on our not continually in use boat.

 

I tend to like the idea of carpet tiles because I suffer from cold feet and guess I'll feel the cold when I pop to the loo in the night! I also think that a carpet or carpet tiles will look more homely in the saloon. However, I am mindful of not wanting to have to take my shoes off when I pop in from outside to go to the loo so that the carpet doesn't get dirty.

 

I also want to try to retain the ability to be able to lift the existing plywood floor panels in case I need to access the under floor area for any reason.

 

SWMBO isn't too struck on the carpet / carpet tiles idea and quite fancies either lino or laminate flooring. Laminate flooring seems to get the thumbs down earlier in this thread. What about lino?

 

Anyone any ideas about the best way to secure the various floor coverings so they don't move but can be lifted to get under the floor if the need arises?

 

I'm about to box the plumbing pipework in. Do I butt any floor covering up to it or do I lay the floor covering and then fit the "box" over the covering. The "box" is a vertical piece of ply with blocks screwed to the back. These blocks are then screwed to the floor. The "box" lid is another piece of ply which is laid on blocks (screwed to the wall) and on the top edge of the vertical piece of ply. The lid will also have a block screwed to the underside so that it can't move forwards. It would be a fairly simple task to screw the vertical plywood through any floor covering and not too difficult to unscrew that plywood if I wanted to lift the floor covering to get under the floor.

 

On the other hand, if I butt the floor covering up to the "box" I don't have to remove the box to lift the floor covering. If we use laminate we'd need to leave an expansion gap around the edge, in front of the "box" and, I presume, fit some quadrant to disguise the gap.

 

Thinking about it, we'll probably have to remove the "box" to lift the floor panels anyway.

 

Are lino tiles the way to go, with the tiles cut to match the plywood floor panels?

 

What do other people use on their floors and how do they find the day to day use of their chosen coverings?

[dor]

Time has indeed moved on, and so has the quality of laminate flooring. B&Q do a range of Aqualoc which is very hard wearing (guaranteed for 10 years in a commercial environment, 20 years domestic). They also do a tile range which looks good in the utility areas. It is approved for use in bathrooms as it is water resistant and its very easy to lay. Not everyone likes laminate flooring, but it's worth a look (and currently has 15% off).

[fuzzyduck]

I work for a company who retails a variety of laminate, and hardwood flooring.

 

If you like I can ask our wood flooring expert if there are any types that are best.

[Ex- Member]

I work for a company who retails a variety of laminate, and hardwood flooring.

 

If you like I can ask our wood flooring expert if there are any types that are best.

 

That would be interesting. We opted for bamboo flooring for a proportion of the boat, it's just brilliant stuff, tongue and groove precision fit. It's coated with some kind of lacquer that's hard as rock as is the bamboo. It's 15mm thick a metre long and about 10cm wide. The good thing too is that it's easy to remove if you choose not to glue the joints. really hard wearing been on the floor for 2 years and hardly a mark anywhere. really easy to clean too. it comes in 3 shades light yellow almost, medium and dark, the colour is derived by heating the bamboo to a certain temperature during manufacture, the heat makes the sugar content in the bamboo darken the hotter it gets, so the colour is completely natural. Aparrently it's 9 times harder than Oak Now that's hard

[huntergatherer]

http://www.karndean.com/index.asp?check=true

[Ray]

Many thanks for the latest comments.

 

I was beginning to wonder if there weren't any developments since the thread was activated a few years back, but now I see there is.

 

I was in B & Q earlier in the week while SWMBO was at the beautician - say no more! - and was just browsing without the knowledge that DOR had. I saw some carpet tiles that looked reasonable but SWMBO is still not struck on carpet in the kitchen or bathroom because she's worried about keeping them clean (and dry).

 

I was thinking of strolling over there again today with the good lady so now I have an added reason for doing so (besdie getting some exercise).

 

Having said that, any information supplied by young Mr Fuzzyduck would also be appreciated.

[smileypete]

Many thanks for the latest comments.

 

I was beginning to wonder if there weren't any developments since the thread was activated a few years back, but now I see there is.

 

I was in B & Q earlier in the week while SWMBO was at the beautician - say no more! - and was just browsing without the knowledge that DOR had. I saw some carpet tiles that looked reasonable but SWMBO is still not struck on carpet in the kitchen or bathroom because she's worried about keeping them clean (and dry).

 

I was thinking of strolling over there again today with the good lady so now I have an added reason for doing so (besdie getting some exercise).

 

Having said that, any information supplied by young Mr Fuzzyduck would also be appreciated.

 

Ideally I'd have floorboards or similar with sisal/coir mats/runners on top.

 

Not a new development as such, but should offer a good compromise between warmer feet/cleanability/access to bilge.

 

'Strand woven' bamboo flooring is becoming more available, looks quite good and is very durable.

 

A neighbour of mine used good guality scaffolding boards which sanded up beautifully.

 

cheers,

Pete.

Edited April 4, 2008 by smileypete