Clive A

Thanks for the prompt input guys. A lot to consider. I shall give the info to my mate who has offered to build the unit. Laptops are not suitable - I've caused thermal shutdown on several by gaming to hard!

I am considering installing a home built tower computer to run on 12V instead of 240V. I have been led to believe that most internal components run at 5V. Therefore, a way of converting from 12V to 5V is needed .It was suggested that fluctuations in power supply may cause problems. Has anyone built one for themselves? Any suggestions gratefully welcomed

Oil strainer is broken! .....so might have debris blocking oilways up

Next step clean oil strainer, and try to bleed air from system.....now to work out how to do it!

Just managed to borrow a manual....will peruse to to see if troubleshooting might have a quick fix!...fingers crossed.

Have you had a chance to peruse a manual?....Highly over engineered piece of machinery!.....has it put you off?

...I was earlier this week, now in Uxbridge. I have forward but no reverse Already spoke to Primrose Engineering...he's never worked on a BWVD before!

Can anyone suggest a mechanic that knows their way around a Borg Warner Velvet Drive gearbox.

Cheers for your help, purchased motor from Calfire for £16.39 Looking forward to a warm winter!

First off, I can't return my Ecofan to Canada for repair as I have taken my motor apart about 5 times, losing the tiny back bearing during my last self repair(I'm sure this invalidates any guarantee). This leaves me with trying to locate a replacement motor. They look very similar to the type used in powered model making. Is it possible to use one of these? will the power output be sufficient to run? will the internals eventually melt? Does anyone know how to get the correct motor? Your help in this will be greatly appreciated Clive

Cheers for the link Robbo, not too sure what all the symbols mean, but I bow to your superior knowledge. Looks like I'll be filling my freezer box with polystyrene inside a cardboard box! Clive

Does anyone know if it is possible to disconnect the freezer compartment on an electric fridge? At the back is a box with 8 wires attached, corresponding to various letters and symbols, as follows :- - Black(in) , Blue + Red(in), Brown + Black\White F empty D White C Green\Yellow P empty T Black Many friends have suggested trial and error - keep pulling wires off until I achieve the desired result. Having blown up electrical equipment before using this method, I prefer not to chance it. your help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

I was under the impression that a battery management system reduces the time spent running the engine to charge the batteries, by maintaining a steady charge rate; which I'm told gradually falls as the battery gets closer to full charge. The lower running costs are my main concern - all I expect from the "flashing lights" is tell me when I need to turn the engine on and off! Clive Love, Light, 'n' Peas

I am considering including a battery management system in my electrics. There is a variety of systems on offer, with impressive sounding statistics (accompanied with impressive prices!), but to a lay-man all the numbers mean little. Any advice on how to choose the right system would be greatly appreciated. Clive Love, Light 'n' Peas

I had already come across the manual, but thanks anyway! All the manual says is "DON'T TOUCH THEM", which is what everyone has been telling me since. I'm hoping I don't have to send off to get it recalibrated.

Hi, new to diesel stoves, and have managed to screw up (pun intended). Got a new boat with a Dutch Kabola with a regulator so gunked up I had to completely dismantle and flush every component. I now have a clean flow of diesel, and a better understanding of how it works. My problem is that during the disassembly I removed the adjustment screws which I have since found are factory set. Can anyone help in setting up correctly? (e.g. so many turns back from fully in). Also, what do these screws do? What are the effects of incorrect settings? Your thanks in this matter, Clive

Hi Maafi, From the look of your drawing, are you sure thet you'll have clearance past the opposite gunnel? One possible way round that could be to have two pieces. The longer piece rests on the lip of your storage box, while the other folds out from under the gunnel to cover the rest of the storage box. Any help? Clive

quick note about straight wood - if your wood is not straight sawn or planed, change your timber merchant! He is not storing it properly prior to cutting or his machinery needs a servicing!

I would suggest that no one uses standard laminate flooring on boats. As a carpenter, I have often had to replace floors in houses that had used it incorrectly. The construction of most laminate flooring is 17 mm of MDF with a 1/2 mm laminate (similar to worktops). The action of water on MDF in disastrous, as it causes it to swell - the floor often bulging in the middle. It is possible to buy laminate designed for high moisture environments (bathrooms, kitchens) but as a carpenter, my suggestion is either real wood flooring ( I've seen some as low as £20/sq m) or laminated wood flooring (made of a sandwich similar to plywood, but top layer is about 5 mm). In the future, either of these options will allow you rectify surface damage by sanding back and revarnishing.

Cheers John, thats one less expense to worry about!

Hi, I've got an iron hull, and have been told that I'd need to use different metals for anodes, but most iron hulls don't have them fitted because the amount of normal corrossion is minimal compared to steel. Can anyone confirm this for me? Cheers, Clive

EPILOGUE Thanks everyone for your help, my problem has been solved thanks to Chris Bennett, who has been able to obtain replacement 12V plugs, thus avoiding the need for a resistor. However, I am informed that a resistor was never needed in the first place as the spare 4V are lost by wiring the first two in parallel!! replacement plugs:- Durite part 0-131-01 replaces DS101

I haven't seen her yet, but I hope she's got a shallow draft and not too long. Most people have a look of dread whenever you mention the Slough Arm, due to the extreme navigational skills needed to avoid the numerous shopping trolleys and stolen bikes that are barely submerged along its 5 mile stretch. The reason why it is so littered is its short length- BW can't be bothered to clear it up!

Hi all, just finished preparing my water tank, and was suggested rather than using bitumen, my friend, a boat painter of many years, swears by using rubber paint! The paint he uses is made by Trimite - A48 Chlorinated Rubber Paint.Trimte product information Has anyone else heard of this being used? p.s It has a scary flash point - in the range of 21C to 32C !! All advice greatly welcomed before I consider this approach