Replacing Inner Metal Window Trims

[JoeC]

Hello.

I get a lot of condensation on the metal inner trims on my single glazed windows, as well as the windows themselves, and wondering if it be worth changing these to wood or plastic trims to try and stop condensation forming on the trims? Hopefully that would stop the condensation dripping down the wall underneath the windows and would hopefully just leave the condensation on the window to drip down the air hole at the bottom.

 

I have put heated up plastic sheets over some of the windows to stop condensation on them, which works well, but the windows which I have not used it on , so that I have some ventilation, still get covered in condensation.

 

Your thoughts would be most appreciated.

[Tony Brooks]

Photo of the trims please. This sounds as if you might be talking about the actual window frame/ I have seen GRP/plastic trims and brass ones on portholes, may are wood and some just part of the cabin lining.

 

I would expect an actual metal trim around the window to be pretty much the same temperature as the cabin air, so not so likely to have condensation on them.

[blackrose]

Aren't "the metal trims" just the inside of the metal windows? 

[JoeC]

Pictures as requested.

[PeterF]

i had those metal trims on my last boat, ss they touch the frame they do get cold and form condensation. I have wood trims on the current boat and I do not get condensation forming on the wooden trims. However I still get condensation on the metal frames which then runs down the trims and needs mopping up every now and again but less than with metal trims, wood does not completely eliminate the issue.

[Tony Brooks]

14 minutes ago, JoeC said:

Pictures as requested.

 

Thank you, so not window trims, but porthole trims.

 

I think that in most boats the BSS will ensure adequate ventilation unless the boater has blocked the roof and low level vents or ignored the BSS recommendations, so you should be OK to apply "double glazing film" on them. I think PeterF has given you the best solution, even though somewhat imperfect.

 

[Alan de Enfield]

We had "shutters" which slid completely across the porthole & so stopped the warm air getting anywhere near the 'cold' frame or glass. There were still occasional bits of condensation (if the shutter was not completely closed) and if not wiped up then it could stain the bottom of the wooden framing - but - it was 90%+ effective.

 

 

Edited January 22 by Alan de Enfield

[Tracy D'arth]

Create a thermal break between the porthole frame and the metal porthole liner.  You will not stop condensation on the porthole frames.

Mop up regularly, heating and ventilation is the only way to reduce condensation.

No cooking, no drying clothes, reduce the areas of open water inside the boat, as a last resort, breath less.

Edited January 22 by Tracy D'arth

[LadyG]

I use draft excluder tape for doors on the metal window trim, which is better than nothing, but boat is kept warm and dry, and plenty of ventilation.

Edited January 22 by LadyG

[blackrose]

11 hours ago, LadyG said:

I use draft excluder tape for doors on the metal window trim, which is better than nothing, but boat is kept warm and dry, and plenty of ventilation.

 

Or you could take this approach to its logical conclusion and just sprayfoam the window trims/frames. It would look horrible though, a bit like draft excluder stuck all over your window frames. 

[LadyG]

5 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Or you could take this approach to its logical conclusion and just sprayfoam the window trims/frames. It would look horrible though, a bit like draft excluder stuck all over your window frames. 

Good plan, I think I've seen folks who have used  corrugated plastic or silver stuff to cover the whole window, not sure about that!

I just put draught excluder on the lower metal window edge, it's hardly noticeable, it's a moulded ribbon, white, easy to fit and / or replace, winter only of course.

 

Edited January 23 by LadyG

[JoeC]

Thanks for all of your comments.