Do you need to shotblast hull to remove old antifoul before blacking?

[pebble77]

how warm should it be roughly for epoxy or bitumen ?

[john.k]

The OP should acquaint him/her self of the term 'dew point" before applying epoxy ..............bitumen can be applied boiling hot ,and thereby negate any condensation problem.

[peterboat]

24 minutes ago, pebble77 said:

how warm should it be roughly for epoxy or bitumen ?

Honestly it seems like the yard is quiet and is drumming up business on a newby, if you start asking for written warranties on the job I think they might decline to do the job

[Cheshire cat]

If you have a look at Intertuf 16 spec sheet here you can see what a difference temperature makes to drying times. As others have said at 5 degrees C as well as longer drying time you will more than likely have to contend with condensation. 

 

Unless you are in a heated dock it really is best left until the better weather arrives.

[pebble77]

Thank you for the link and info cheshire cat.

 

Unfortunately I can't wait until spring arrives so I'm going to have to crack on with the epoxy myself but find the nicest mildest day I can.

my surveyor has said I can do it myself at this time of year so I think I just have to trust that and do the best i can. and another friend of mine has just piped up saying he did his hull at this time of year so..🤞

 

I will let you know how it goes!

 

Thank you to everyone for your advice 🙏

[pebble77]

spoke too soon !

 

Cheshire cat- the interful sheet says 

 

As an economical coating ideally suited for the protection of interior steel surfaces in enclosed areas such as tanks for storage of sea water, immersed piping and structural steelwork. Suitable for use at low temperatures and over power tool cleaned steel where performance expectations are consistent with such preparation methods.

 

Is this product often used for boats hulls or just interior steel structures?

 

Because it would be good to have this as an option if for any reason it turns out i can't go down the epoxy route

[rusty69]

If you do use epoxy coating in the colder weather, look for the winter grade hardener.

[Richard10002]

1 hour ago, pebble77 said:

Unfortunately I can't wait until spring arrives

Why can't you wait. Is there a deadline for you to get somewhere?

[LadyG]

On 12/02/2023 at 11:31, pebble77 said:

I think I have basically agreed to the shotblasting. He has quoted 800 for it. The blacking will be done undercover, but I see what you mean about the temperature being a potential issue peterboat. Not sure if i have a choice here though.

 

They have quoted 1600 for epoxy 2 pack and I just don't have the money to afford that.

I'm not sure what you really need, when I coated my steel narrowboat two years ago I put the two pack epoxy on myself, it was the easiest paint job I've ever done.

Of course the weather was perfect, the hull was perfect,  the two tins of epoxy mixed easily and I had it on the hull before it started to go off. You need to be quick and have everything to hand. The correct size and type of rollers and some brushes.

There is the problem of areas covered by supports.

My boat was 57ft, and I just mixed the two tins with the mixing tools I had to hand. If I'd wanted to use half a tin of each I would have used weigh scales to ensure the proportions are correct.

SML Paints will provide technical advice, so I'd ring them, ask for the marine technical  guy, and discuss.

In my opinion it is imperative that the temperature and the dew point are correct, and the hull is prepared properly.

 

[rusty69]

6 minutes ago, LadyG said:

On 12/02/2023 at 11:31, pebble77 said:

 

I'm not sure what you really need, when I coated my steel narrowboat two years ago I put the two pack epoxy on myself, it was the easiest paint job I've ever done.

It generally performs better if you put it on the boat.

[LadyG]

On 12/02/2023 at 14:10, pebble77 said:

Thank you for the link and info cheshire cat.

 

Unfortunately I can't wait until spring arrives so I'm going to have to crack on with the epoxy myself but find the nicest mildest day I can.

my surveyor has said I can do it myself at this time of year so I think I just have to trust that and do the best i can. and another friend of mine has just piped up saying he did his hull at this time of year so..🤞

 

I will let you know how it goes!

 

Thank you to everyone for your advice 🙏

Ok, well why not ask SML paints about winter additives/winter grade epoxy.

Or there is something called Ballistic Black which I have no experience of, but it may be suitable for some purposes.

I think if you blast the hull, you then may need some sort of anti rust primer, but I'm a bit out of my depth on this aspect.

6 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

It generally performs better if you put it on the boat.

 I did wear a hat, gloves and the full white coveralls, kinda essential.

On 12/02/2023 at 11:52, rusty69 said:

Think I would get them to do the blasting. Seems reasonable cost wise, and then 2 pack epoxy it myself, but not until the weather warms up a bit, unless it happens to be in a heated enclosure.

 

Maybe cost just over 1000-1200, maybe more with slip charges.

 

If money is really tight, then investigate the bitumen route.

I think you need to coat the hull as soon as the steel is clean and before it rusts.

Over five years epoxy is cheaper because you don't have to re coat it every two years. That is why folks use two pack.

Edited March 24, 2023 by LadyG

[Johnny123]

Hi.. we're is it your getting the blasting done? That's seems pretty cheap from what I have been quoted. I have a 56ft narrowboat that needs blasting but most quotes are coming in around £2000. 

[blackrose]

33 minutes ago, Johnny123 said:

Hi.. we're is it your getting the blasting done? That's seems pretty cheap from what I have been quoted. I have a 56ft narrowboat that needs blasting but most quotes are coming in around £2000. 

 

That's pretty reasonable as long as they're doing the uxter plates and swims. If you have an upswept baseplate at the bow do the first few feet of that too. I've assumed you're not doing the baseplate?

 

When I had my widebeam blasted in 2015 it was done by a mobile blasting guy who charged me £350. An absolute bargain in hindsight.

Edited March 11 by blackrose