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Replacing the rubber strake on Juno


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Me again - my own boat this time! I took the rubber strake off Juno last summer - I was doing a short test cruise and it was half off and slight risk of getting entangled with something. 

 

I now need to put it back in the metal groove - there's around 50 feet of it in two pieces. I suspect if I just put it back in it will come loose again fairly quickly. Any suggestions on what to glue it in with? Sealant?

 

The one trip I've done without it in place is not to be repeated! The sound of the aluminium channel hitting stonework is horrible...

 

(Yes, I know the boat needs a clean)

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9 minutes ago, magpie patrick said:

Me again - my own boat this time! I took the rubber strake off Juno last summer - I was doing a short test cruise and it was half off and slight risk of getting entangled with something. 

 

I now need to put it back in the metal groove - there's around 50 feet of it in two pieces. I suspect if I just put it back in it will come loose again fairly quickly. Any suggestions on what to glue it in with? Sealant?

 

The one trip I've done without it in place is not to be repeated! The sound of the aluminium channel hitting stonework is horrible...

 

(Yes, I know the boat needs a clean)

20220501_122921.jpg

20220501_122842.jpg

20220501_122856.jpg

20220501_122952.jpg

Put a new rubbing strip on my old Norman, and initially glued it in the groove with Stixall.

However it wasn't long before some parts of it were coming out of the groove.As well as being subject to fore and aft rubbing, it is also gets vertical rubbing when ascending and descending locks.

I used the screws that hold the metal strip to the hull and screwed through the rubber.

It's a bit awkward getting the hole in the rubber to line up with the hole in the metal strip.

I tightened the screws enough so that the heads were further in than the surface of the rubber strip.

It looks a bit unsightly having a series of dents in the rubbing strip, but the strip stayed in place.

 

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If you can get to the inside I would use machine screws with nuts and washers on the inside with plenty of sealer on the washer/screw. I think that it would be wise to counter drill the strip so the screw head is below flush. I would drill the strip off the boat and the drill through once fitted.

 

If you can't get at the inside I think I would do the same but drill through the aluminum and GRP for self tapping SS screws. Sealer on the screw before fitting.

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Similar in principal to old style car windscreen seals. It really depends upon the condition of the rubber insert and in particular the 'wings' that hold it in the aluminium extrusion. To do the job properly I suspect you will need a suitable tool. Have you looked on the Seals Direct site to see what they have on offer by way of replacement strip and insertion tools? Maybe the way forward is to replace with a hardwood rubbing sstrip.

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8 minutes ago, Slim said:

Similar in principal to old style car windscreen seals. It really depends upon the condition of the rubber insert and in particular the 'wings' that hold it in the aluminium extrusion. To do the job properly I suspect you will need a suitable tool. Have you looked on the Seals Direct site to see what they have on offer by way of replacement strip and insertion tools? Maybe the way forward is to replace with a hardwood rubbing sstrip.

Just looked on the Seals Direct site and they do several fender sections that look very similar. Have a large scotch first as it's not cheap. Looked to see if they do insertion tools but their descriptions aren't too clear. If I were you I'd give them a call and see what they advise. Good luck.

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A long time since Ive done one but seem to remember getting it nice and hot made life alot easier and stopped it sagging. Secure the ends well and as it cools down should tighten up and fit beautifully..

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4 hours ago, PaulJ said:

A long time since Ive done one but seem to remember getting it nice and hot made life alot easier

 What kind of temperature are we talking of? Hair dryer? Blow torch? Heating it had occurred to me but I'm not sure what with - I don't want to melt it!

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7 minutes ago, magpie patrick said:

 What kind of temperature are we talking of? Hair dryer? Blow torch? Heating it had occurred to me but I'm not sure what with - I don't want to melt it!

I did it in an oil drum with river water and a small fire.

It wasnt boiling though-just enough to get it more pliable so as to get it in the extrusion and its like steaming wood-you got to be bloody quick.

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I would use the rubber you've got if it's in decent enough condition. New rubber extrusion will be expensive.

 

Clean the inside of channel out thoroughly and key the inside with green scouring pads and then wipe it out with white spirit on a cloth. Clean the rubber too then heat it up and do a dry run with a short length to see how easy/difficult it is to get it into the channel. If you can get it in then pump a load of Marineflex, Stixall or some other brand of PU adhesive/sealant into the channel. It takes hours to go off. Heat up the rubber again and go for it. I would dry the hot rubber with a towel before it goes in but it doesn't matter if the rubber is damp when you push it into the channel.

 

Wear latex gloves and clean up with white spirit.

Edited by blackrose
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Flexibility can be restored to some types of synthetic rubber by wiping with ordinary household glycerine. I have found it usually works for windscreen wiper blades.  

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