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Hi all

recently bought a webasto thermotop evo

im now doing the water hoses in the engine room

i have 2 x 19mm rubber hoses re the colarifier 

I also have to go 10feet from header tank/heater unit x 2 if put the Ts, by the colarifier 20foot

 

OR can i T off nearer the heater/pump which will save me some money, as I’ve already got 30 mtrs 0f 15mm that I can use 

meaning I would only need 8ft of rubber hose.?

 

YES I APRECIATE THAT I SHOULD HAVE USED 22MM PIPE, BUT I ALREADY HAD THE 50MTR OF 15MM

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I don't really understand why you need so much flexible car heater hose? My Thermotop C is in the engine room and I have a couple of short lengths (flow & return) going from/to the heater to the engine room bulkhead. From the other side of the bulkhead the main runs and feed to the calorifier (under a kitchen cabinet inside the cabin) is all done in 22mm dia plastic pipe. 

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To plumb into the existing 19mm out and inlet rubber hose from the colarifier, I need to T off using the rubber tubing?

i have a rethink about the above, thank you for your imput.Blackrose.

 

Col

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From heater/header tank to the calorifier  is about 10 feet x 2 hoses it’s 20 feet

your saying to have the 19mm right accross from header tank/heater increasing the flow.

rather using 15mm plastic pipe.?

 

col

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There is six days inches on the flow and return on my heater all the rest is 22mm copper.

The whole system should really be in 22mm pipe with the exception of the feed to the rads from the 22mm and possibly the feed from the header tank if it's short. To do it any other way is a inviting problems😉

There should also be valves in the 22mm feed and in the Calorifier feed to enable the flow to be balanced. Really it only needs one valve but you won't know in which feed it's needed until you have got the system up and running and it saves draining it down to fit the valve in the correct place.

 

ETA don't use plastic on heating systems as it will sag once it gets hot unless it is clipped every few inches

Edited by Loddon
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56 minutes ago, bigcol said:

From heater/header tank to the calorifier  is about 10 feet x 2 hoses it’s 20 feet

your saying to have the 19mm right accross from header tank/heater increasing the flow.

rather using 15mm plastic pipe.?

 

col

I can't follow what you are saying, how about a diagram?

What I was getting at was to have a circuit to the calorifier and another for the radiators, both coming off as close to the heater as possible then there are 2 circuits for the heater to feed increasing the flow through the boiler rather than one off the other where one pipe would be carrying both flows.

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Main question is, can I cut in the 19mm heating anywhere in the coolent hose work

ie next to colarifier, or in the hoses let say nearer the engine?

 

col

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1 hour ago, Loddon said:

 

ETA don't use plastic on heating systems as it will sag once it gets hot unless it is clipped every few inches

 

Mine is all boxed in so it doesn't really matter if it sags. If you want it on display then it has to be copper.

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It is not even clear to me that the OP has a twin coil calorifier. It almost sounds as if he is trying to connect the heater into the engine calorifier circuit. If he is he is asking for more difficulties.

 

To add to Tracy's point. Plastic sags horribly and expands far more than copper on long narrow boat central heating runs.

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1 hour ago, bigcol said:

Main question is, can I cut in the 19mm heating anywhere in the coolent hose work

ie next to colarifier, or in the hoses let say nearer the engine?

 

col

Are you planning to feed your hot water through the engine cooling system to use the same coil in the calorifier as the engine does? That is how I am reading it. T'ing into the cooling pipes.

 

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51 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Are you planning to feed your hot water through the engine cooling system to use the same coil in the calorifier as the engine does? That is how I am reading it. T'ing into the cooling pipes.

 

Hi Brian, yes I am.

at the moment water could be heated up by the engine, but will T into this water circuit, and bu teeing it in the system, it will run through radiators and colarifier .

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26 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Hi Brian, yes I am.

at the moment water could be heated up by the engine, but will T into this water circuit, and bu teeing it in the system, it will run through radiators and colarifier .

If you increase the volume of water in the engine cooling system, by adding the central heating circuit, how are you going to cope with the large expansion volume of engine coolant?

This is not the way to do it, your heater pump will not like the engine pump running at the same time. 

When the engine is not running the heater will heat the engine too, not very efficient or sensible.

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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38 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Hi Brian, yes I am.

at the moment water could be heated up by the engine, but will T into this water circuit, and bu teeing it in the system, it will run through radiators and colarifier .

You realise the whole thing will be pressurised 

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7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

You realise the whole thing will be pressurised 

Its going to be fun when you take the "radiator" cap off the engine!

 

Filling it and getting the air out will be.... er..... difficult.

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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Okay, I have things wrong then, which is why this forum is so helpful

 

at the moment the Calorifier  is in the engine circuit, so engine heats the water

so I can’t have both ?

so I can conect heating and  Calorifier, but disconnect the loses to the engine.

 

good job I check on this first!!

 

 

Thank you all!!!

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6 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Okay, I have things wrong then, which is why this forum is so helpful

 

at the moment the Calorifier  is in the engine circuit, so engine heats the water

so I can’t have both ?

so I can conect heating and  Calorifier, but disconnect the loses to the engine.

 

good job I check on this first!!

 

 

Thank you all!!!

You could change the calorifier to one with 2 coils or add a "hot rod" to the one you have maybe. Or use a heat exchanger in the calorifier circuit but you may still heat the engine unnecessarily.

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24 minutes ago, bigcol said:

My calorifier is twin coil?

If that is so then one coil for engine heating and the other for boiler heating. Just plumb the boiler coil as if it is another radiator.  Then you can put the boiler header tank and expansion pipe where it is most convenient.

 

Using a heat exchange might require an extra pump.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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If the calorifier is twin coil there is no problem. You will need a header/expansion tank and then just plumb the heater with twin pipes to each radiator and the calorifier coil.

Make provision at every high point for bleeding the air out, the tank will bleed the coil if you connect it to the top connection.

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PCB board anyone please?
 

Okay went for the big turn on this morning.     Nothing!!!!!

too late I know but checking model number it seams as though, the pcb is the wrong one!!

it’s me all over, buying it as New from eBay for £500, I’ve had to buy other parts as well

i seam to have come to a big stop. My fault I know, I do it time after time getting what I think is a cheap good deal, then it either costs me more, or can’t be done.

Its a brand new thermotop evo part number 9021037E
I imagine it has a bus pcb inside?

ive checked the wiring and it seems good and correct

Col

 

Any contacts shops where can I buy a PCB for a webasto thermotop evo please?? New/ refurbished, if i can do a deal with my old one which is brand new, as in brand new

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Learn from you past mistakes - but the proper part from the manufacturers dealer :

 

Webasto Thermo Top EVO Repair Parts | ButlerTechnik

 

I've been down the same cost saving road as yourself and, its taken a long time, but I've finally accepted that paying more usually results in getting the correct parts.

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