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Eberspaecher or solid fuel stove?


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2 hours ago, ivan&alice said:

Hi @Tracy D'arth, I decided to get one of these to tide me (and my lithium batteries) over until I have a proper heating solution. 

 

I installed this on Sunday and it worked very well for 2 days!

Today though it is giving me an E-10 error (Ignition Failure). The instructions say to "Check whether the oil way is blocked, or the oil is not smooth, the oil pump is stuck, the oil problem causes the volatile network to be blocked, and so on,m so that the 2 ignition fails to burn normally".

 

This sounds like a fuel problem but I can see the diesel fuel chugging through the clear plastic pipe. I can also see exhaust being emitted from the exhaust pipe. The blown air feels like it is starting to warm up but then the heater shuts down with this error (around 5 minutes after having started it up). 

 

 

Have you encountered an error like this in operation? 

There's a very good Facebook group for troubleshooting these heaters.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/146837062640024/?ref=share

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2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

No.  Check that its getting full battery voltage under load, that's the usual reason for ignition fail.  Exhaust not too long? Kinked fuel line?

It's getting 12.4V at the terminals under load, which is significantly less than the 13.2V my Li battery is showing, but should still be fine - also this model has a different error message to state that it's undervoltage. I'm using the exhaust from the product, less than 2' long but does have two 90deg bends. I am noticing a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line, so I think this must be the problem - I'm going to try to figure out how to bleed it: detach the pipe and suck? The heater has some kind of cycle so it's not just a case of turning it on to get the pump going. I'm not sure how air is getting into the pipe though.

54 minutes ago, Tom and Bex said:

There's a very good Facebook group for troubleshooting these heaters.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/146837062640024/?ref=share

Wow! Thanks for sharing, that's amazing!

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Don't know about Webasto or Mikuni but "Ebers" were not meant for thermostatic control of their operation. The constant start up and shutdown cycles are the main cause of failure due to coking up - and don't do much for the batteries either.  My system was installed with a thermostatically controlled valve in the main radiator/finrad circuit, while another circuit feeds the calorifier and bathroom radiator and is always "on".  Sensors on the heat exchanger body are used to control the air blower and this cycles the unit between high and low speed.  It also had a standard Alde room thermostat which did control the main power to the unit - that was made redundant several years ago.

 

Since the demise of the older "red diesel", I have found that the unit runs a lot cleaner and the last time I serviced it there was hardly any carbon build up.

 

Another cause of failure to start can be bad connections on the fuse panel in the Eber control box. Older models only had fuses held on spring lugs prone to corrosion. Most of the circuitry inside that box is superfluous since it holds all manner of relays and fuses to do with vehicle installations. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Mine (Eberspacher) is a continuous 10a if the heater is operating or not.

The leccy is used on the fan rathe than just igniting the fuel.

 

These are blown air heaters and use more than water heaters.

 

The D5 uses a mimimum of 2a (25w) on low and 7amps (85w) on high.

I don't know what the high / low split would be but (say) 1/4 high and 3/4 low the consumption would be around (42Ah + 36Ah) 78Ah per 25 hours.

True for the blown air heaters you have, but I was talking about the water/radiator heaters which are what narrowboats use.

 

From my experience you don't need them on (3A at 5kW) all the time unless you want to be naked in a sauna, I'd guess Detling's 72Ah/day is two or three times the real number.

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8 minutes ago, IanD said:

True for the blown air heaters you have, but I was talking about the water/radiator heaters which are what narrowboats use.

 

I know, but the thread is about the blown air heater that Ivan is having problems with on his NB

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12 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I know, but the thread is about the blown air heater that Ivan is having problems with on his NB

Post #1 : "We have an Eberspaecher D5 Hydronic water heater. It was connected to one of the two coils in my calorifier and two rads inside the boat"

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13 minutes ago, IanD said:

Post #1 : "We have an Eberspaecher D5 Hydronic water heater. It was connected to one of the two coils in my calorifier and two rads inside the boat"

 

September 26th "This morning I removed my Eber.  First important thing I missed is that it is a D4SWC (4.3kW) model"

 

5 Hours ago "I installed this on Sunday and it worked very well for 2 days!" (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5KW-12V-Air-Diesel-Night-Heater-4-Holes-LCD-Monitor-Remote-Trucks-Boats-Car-home/254729265140?hash=item3b4f0c1ff4:g:a78AAOSwEnJfbbJG

 

Today though it is giving me an E-10 error (Ignition Failure). The instructions say to "Check whether the oil way is blocked, or the oil is not smooth, the oil pump is stuck, the oil problem causes the volatile network to be blocked, and so on,m so that the 2 ignition fails to burn normally".

 

This sounds like a fuel problem but I can see the diesel fuel chugging through the clear plastic pipe. I can also see exhaust being emitted from the exhaust pipe. The blown air feels like it is starting to warm up but then the heater shuts down with this error (around 5 minutes after having started it up). 

 

 

 

It would appear you are answering questions based on the wrong piece of equipment.

 

That is why other replies have been about blown air Ebers etc, rather than 'water' ebers.

 

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6 hours ago, ivan&alice said:

Hi @Tracy D'arth, I decided to get one of these to tide me (and my lithium batteries) over until I have a proper heating solution. 

 

I installed this on Sunday and it worked very well for 2 days!

Today though it is giving me an E-10 error (Ignition Failure). The instructions say to "Check whether the oil way is blocked, or the oil is not smooth, the oil pump is stuck, the oil problem causes the volatile network to be blocked, and so on,m so that the 2 ignition fails to burn normally".

 

This sounds like a fuel problem but I can see the diesel fuel chugging through the clear plastic pipe. I can also see exhaust being emitted from the exhaust pipe. The blown air feels like it is starting to warm up but then the heater shuts down with this error (around 5 minutes after having started it up). 

 

 

Have you encountered an error like this in operation? 

Have got one of those.The usual problem with these heaters is voltage drop.They need 12amps for about five minutes on the start up cycle.

Check that the feed wire is thick enough.

Havn't got the very confusing instructions to hand,but can't remember what error E10 is,but when the voltage is low the battery symbol flashes.

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Also worth noting that the supplied wiring is almost certainly too thin, particularly if using it at full length. Could easily be fuel related, but voltage drop is very commonly the cause of spurious errors. Also make sure fuel pump is installed at correct angle, and fuel pipe is smooth with no kinks or sharp bends (I know yours comes pre-assembled, but that's no guarantee it's correct!). 

 

Lots of advice on the Facebook group I linked, but think you have to join first.

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5 hours ago, ivan&alice said:

 I am noticing a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line, so I think this must be the problem -

 

A see through i.e. plastic fuel pipe is almost certainly a BSS fail it has to be the marked ISO 7840, or copper.

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Sorry for the confusion.

 

Re the eber, I have dropped that off at an eber service agent for testing/servicing.

 

Re the solid fuel stove, that is going in, but I need to relocate the calorifier to the engine bay to make space for it - a big job that I will need to find time for, and I need a few parts that I have to order before I can get started.

 

In the meantime I have a temporary cheap blown-air heater - a standalone unit that simply has an exhaust pipe leading to a skin fitting. Which I am having trouble with - the Facebook group of 50k people sounds like a good spot to get help! I have will see what they have to say when I get accepted. Note that the voltage is at 12.4V under load, so I don't think that is the problem. I also didn't use the thin wire it came with and instead used decent thickness wire. My best guess right now is that it is sucking air into the fuel line.

 

I'll follow up and let everyone know when I know what's going on.

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On 25/09/2020 at 23:51, WotEver said:

This isn’t going to be hugely helpful because I can’t remember the details but someone ( @Alan de Enfield? ) recently mentioned a new model of Webasto (?) that functions just like a domestic boiler. You just set the thermostat and it switches on and off as required to keep the heat where you want it. Whoever it was will probably be along in the morning. :)

and the new Ebersplutter, full kit for £1275 from Espar. Constant variable output down to 1.3kw. They even advertise that it's suitable for hot water only during the summer months.

 

http://www.espar.co.uk/EsparPlymouthProducts_NarrowBoatHeating.htm

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21 hours ago, Detling said:

A see through i.e. plastic fuel pipe is almost certainly a BSS fail it has to be the marked ISO 7840, or copper.

Those all in one unit heaters can not comply with BSS safety regs. 

Its not only the plastic fuel pipe,but also the fuel tank is in the same casing as the heater.

To be BSS compliant,the plastic fuel pipe needs to be metal,and the fuel tank needs to be situated in a place where the tank can vent overboard,and also have a drain overboard for spillage when re-fuelling.

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