David Mack

I seem to recall someone queried this with HMRC when the split declaration was first introduced. They said that it was permitted for suppliers to sell only at a fixed split if they wished. In which case the customer either has to accept the supplier's split or buy elsewhere.

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/battery-cable-flexible gives the outside diameter for different cross sectional areas of typical battery cables. This is only one particular supplier and other brands may vary, but it will give you an idea of the conductor cross sectional area for a particular outside diameter.

Not enough draw from the, flue which is probably due to it being partially blocked. Give the pipe a good sweeping and check for any debris on the baffle plate.

You can only supply or sell wood fuel in volumes of less than 2 cubic metres if it is certified as ‘Ready to Burn’. This confirms it has a moisture content of 20% or less. The Ready to Burn certification scheme applies to: firewood in single retail bags firewood supplied as a bulk delivery in loose volumes of less than 2 cubic metres wood briquettes in single retail bags wood briquettes supplied as a bulk delivery in loose volumes of less than 2 cubic metres https://www.gov.uk/guidance/selling-wood-for-domestic-use-in-england

Put it on ebay?

I wonder how the holes in the meccano would affect a @bizzard-built rudder? 🙂

Interesting that that doesn't have the fishtail on the trailing edge or the top and bottom horizontal plates that I would expect to see on a Schilling rudder.

Can you not use a plug in power meter such as this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/energenie-ener007-energy-saving-power-meter-socket/3477h#product_additional_details_container

I bought some from them at £19.95 for 5 litres last week, but it's now at £27.95.

But you know you have paid, and have bank statements showing those payments. It doesn't seem that they have disputed receiving any money, so why do you need the acknowledgement?

A boat that hasn't moved much, judging by the absence of longitudinal scrapes along the bottom.

Indeed. He refers specifically to a deep cutting across the summit. Presumably at a somewhat higher level than the tunnel was built.

Why not? If its a back boiler system it was probably intended to be gravity circulation with 28mm pipe to provide minimum resistance. My guess is it didn't actually circulate properly so was converted to pumped circulation. If that had intended from the start it would have used 15mm pipe throughout anyway.

And will require your inverter to be on.

Since some are getting petty about what content is appropriate for this thread, I'd question whether that is "nice on the waterways"! 🙂

Belfast's hull was primed with Jotun Penguard HB 2 part epoxy primer, and the same was used internally for the bilges. If you are going to use part cans, the weight of each component you need is given at https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/uploads/files/library/files/2 pack weights 0314.pdf. Get yourself a cheap set of digital kitchen scales to weigh out the 2 components - a fiver from Asda when I bought mine. Since your boat is already out of the water you would get the best out of a 2 pack epoxy paint system if you had the hull shot blasted first. It will cost, but it will be a better job and will save you days or weeks of running around with an angle grinder and wire brush.

I knew someone who submitted a draft document for a project in Liverpool, which was strongly based on a similar previous project they had done in Manchester. Unfortunately, the search-and-replace failed to substitute for the one misspelled instance of 'Manchester'. The Liverpool client was not amused!

Agreed. David, your contributions to this and other threads are fascinating. Please continue to post, and just ignore the rest of us when the discussion wanders off in odd directions.

Is that for manually winding open the swing bridge?

I think that warm moist air from the cabin can find its way past the plywood panels into the unheated area around the tank, and the water vapour will condense on the cold hull sides, deck plate and water tank. Condensation will not be obvious if you look when the outside temperature is relatively warm, but I bet its there if you look early in the morning or late in the evening.

I seem to recall that was being sold from the GU in Tyseley, whereas this plot is on the Tame Valley.

Its an aerial for communicating with alien beings. There should be a wire coming out of the bottom which you can attach to your tinfoil helmet.

This plastic fitting was screwed onto a threaded pipe welded to the hull. It was all working perfectly, with no dripping, damp or smell, until I came to remove the wash basin and the heavily corroded pipe came off in my hand. The boat had been fitted out about 25 years earlier. But fortunately it was way above the water line.

But simple paddle wheels of constant diameter operating in a cylindrical casing, entirely above the bottom of the boat, would just churn up a lot of water but not produce much propulsive force. The key to the Hotchkiss cone must be that water is drawn in at the small end, and the paddle wheel (which I see has slightly curved blades) accelerates the water both along the cone towards the biģ end and out to the larger diameter. Thus water is drawn in at the small end and out at the large end, but using a single hull opening rather than separate intake and outlet openings, as with other water jet propulsion systems. I guess they were normally installed as handed pairs to cancel out any lateral forces. Simple devices and suitable for shallow water, but I wonder how the overall efficiency compares with a screw propeller outside the hull.