Iain_S

I think so. Is the TV 12V or 240V? If 12V, 0.2A is 2.4W, which is very low. If 1.2A at 240V, this will be roughly 30A from the batteries. Similarly the lighting : We use 10LED units, which replace 15W bulbs. Each unit is 2.4W, which is 0.2A. Pretty good, but over 10 times what you seem to be using Iain

I don't see how Martin got less than Maffi Iain

I'm pretty sure that's the case, but nothing to stop the "home mooring" being at Grangemouth Iain

All part of the learning process, I suppose. Next time, slower approach, slower on bottom paddle, and quicker on the rope I have seen this technique go wrong as well : rope was on towpath side dolly, so top gate didn't shut, just rocked alarmingly on is hinge Iain

But not immediately, IME. On our canal society boat, the shaft is locked for the first weed hatch check (before engine start), but duing subsequent weed clearances, it is easy to turn the prop. Haven't checked how long it takes to lock in ahead after engine switched off, though Iain P.S. crossed with bizzard.

Can you get into the Smartbank setup menu? Iain

I used crimp ring terminals, RR8 or BR8, depending on the wire used for the connections. If 1mm or 1.5mm cable, use RR8, if 2mm cable, use BR8, (assuming the studs on your battery clamps are 8mm: most are.) I recall now that the Merlin Smartgauge came with crimp terminals, but as I used 2mm wire, I "upgraded" them from red to blue. One tool that is very handy vital is a set of crimping pliers; cheap ones will do for occaisional use. Iain Edited due to speeling

For a basic Smartgauge setup, there is one connection to cabin bank positive, one to starter positive, and one to the common negative. Last one I bought was from Merlin, and came with fuses and fuseholders. Failng that, these do the job. I can't remember if the Merlin SG came with crimp connectors, or whether I used my own. Iain P.S. "Last one I bought" is not a comment on reliability; Gamebird and Copperkins both have one fitted.

But are less likely to be driven over, trodden on, dragged across rough surfaces, etc Iain

That's some battery bank! Iain

The Forth and Clyde has gate paddles only; no ground paddles. (1770 - 1840) Iain

So could be a real b******* to remove Iain

A "hose to tap" connector should work, as that would end up with a rubber seal between the end of the calorifier thread and the fitting. That would need a short length of water hose to connect to rest of plumbing, though. Tim's solution of a backnut would seem to be the most solid solution, as it would force the threads into contact. Iain

If the pipes aren't drained, does turnng the water off achieve anything, apart from limiting water loss if they do burst? Personally, I'd have thought an "off", undrained, system was more likely to freeze than one in regular use. Iain

Surely that's down to Richard not leaving a teatowel handy? Iain

Well, we bought our Sea Otter second hand 12 years ago, and so far it's the only boat we've found (with narrowboat levels of comfort) which is capable of "cruising" between Edinburgh and the southern canal network without involving cranes and low-loaders. (Probably wouldn't have paid the list price, though) Iain

I suspect that this statement has a high flannel content, as I can't see how any of it depends on what happens down South. The moorings allocation issue has been going on since the first openings of parts of the canal. "The List" gets raised quite regularly at User Meetings! I suppose it's possible that BW, who, I think, handle the licensing/mooring admin., have stopped doing so. BW(S) are currently tendering for a system to do this themselves, as they were paying "shedloads" of money for this service. As I understand it, the split of BW(S) from BW can't happen until the legislation to set up CaRT has been passed, but that shouldn't affect allocation of moorings, etc. Iain

Ours does seem to make the middle of the boat a bit warmer. Not sure if there is a noticeable effect further aft, though. (58', narrow, stove just inside front doors) Also, as nicknorman says, a useful stove go/no going indicator Iain

If the voltage was measured on the actual battery posts, then probably yes. Iain

When the water pump has stopped after bringing the pressure up, a tyre pressure gauge on the accumulator will show the pump cut out pressure. If you have the pump switched on, and a tap running slowly, the gauge will cycle between that pressure and the (lower) cut in pressure. (This assumes the accumulator pressure is below the "cut in" pressure) Switch the pump off, and when the tap stops running, pump up the accumulator to about the cut in pressure. It's not critical, and the accumulator will still work if it's a bit out. Some people just pressurise it to about half the cut out pressure, and it still does its thing Iain

It'll charge a car battery enough to start the engine, if left overnight. (300 Amp or so for 30 sec = 150 Ampminutes= about 3Ah) OK if you're prepared to run the genny for several hours before starting the engine, but recharging a flat cabin battery would take days Iain

If we're talking about an accumulater, some discussion HERE. There was a thread which derived the ideal setting from first principles, but I couldn't find it using the search. (Result was, IRC, pump cut in pressure or a couple of psi above.) The last one I bought came charged to a pressure well above that of the water system, so I had to let the air out to measure te system pressure, then pump it up to suit. Iain

If it is the first time it's licensed by BW, you'll get an index number and two "number plates" with the licence. Iain