Iain_S

They would be, yes!

Also, missed out C5 (which I think is more common than C7, but do not have, and do not intend to acquire, any evidence to back this up ) Iain Edited to add : and C3

I don't think he'd much experience with copper, either, if nearly all the joints were compression Iain

What information are they noting and publishing? The address? Anyway, I agree with O'Mali that the most probable scenario is a walk past. I can't get anyone done with harrassment for walking past my house, even if they do it several times each and every day. Targeted against overstayers/continuous moorers? (A term I dislike, BTW, as too easily implying the should be continuous cruisers, rather than permanent moorers, perhaps constant moorers would be a better description) See Post 159 I don't thnk we are ever going to reach a consensus, and so let's agree to differ Iain Edited for the speeling mistooks I spotted!

Really? I don't know one way or the other. I don't think noting boat names/numbers can be construed as harrassment. I consider myself a reasonable person. Therefore, as (2) above refers to "a reasonable person", and not "all rasonable persons", Dave's conduct is not harrassment. Have we? I don't recall Dave stating this, and as only he can speak to his motive, we have not established anything. So we must assume alarm or distress, unless there is evidence to the contrary? I may object to my photograph being taken, but that does not mean that every snapper along the cut is guilty of harrassment. Is any person under the age of 20 or so on the towpath is guilty of harrassment, given the number of posts on various fora on "youth problems", "is it safe to moor here?" etc, given that most of the posters are "reasonable persons"? Iain edited for speelin

If you remove the wood, what's left? Could the existing metal form a "new" gunwale (once painted and holes made good)? This approach could lead to condensation problems, though, as the gunwales would no longer be insulated by wood. Iain

Most pigtails have pre-attached crimed on ends; usually L/H thread to fit as cylinder at one end and 1/2" or 3/4" BSP at the other. The connection to the genny tap is secured with hose clips, which is OK so long as the hose is on a proper fitting (which it probably is) and the gas has gone through a regulator before the genny connection (i.e. it's low pressure, not cylinder pressure.) I can't quite make out how the the genny regulator one is done. If it is hose clipped as well, all you need is a length of suitable, BS marked, hose, which can be got from any chandlers or caravan shop. Iain

FUBAR

Nothing was said to me about replacing the nails with screws. That said, I have used them in the past (with the nails, but obviously avoiding hitting the pipe with the hammer ). There were a couple that failed. In each case, it was the plastic that went, and, to be honest, I don't think they're man enough for the job. Iain

I used them on a heater installation for the gas supply pipe and inlet/exhaust hoses. Passed a Gas Certificate, although not been subject to BSS yet. They are OK, provided that they aren't under too much strain. I use screws as well as the adhesive for fixing. I have been told that electrical cable clips are acceptable as well. Iain

Sounds like either a dicky thermostat, or (probably more likely)the water isn't circulating (either pump U/S or all the stop valves turned off (Don't laugh, that one happenned to me : lesson leaned, don't assume, check!) Does the boiler get hot before it shuts down? Is the pump running? Iain Edited to add : Dominic beat me to it

Hob Joint: Was the photo taken during the fit out? If not, there looks to be enough access to work a screw driver (manual or electric ) to fit a saddle clip where needed.(BSS states within 6"of joint; from the photo,it looks like one required on the leg of the "T", possibly one to the left?)(I had a similar fail on Gamebird, despite a previous pass, and ended up with a combination of nailed plastic "P" clips, and a saddle clip screwed on using a screwdriver bit, and a 6mm spanner ) T Joint in gas locker: If two pipes are required, could the "T" be made at the regulator, which I assume is firmly mounted? Failing that, is there enough space for a piece of wood, with clip, to be attached to the locker side with Sikoflex or Marineflex, or screwed from outside? (The gas pipe should be clipped to wood, not metal.) Iain

Yes. Any hydrocarbon fuel (gas, oil, petrol, diesel, candle wax, etc, etc) produces water and carbon dioxide when burnt. If the combustion is not complete, there will be carbon monoxide as well. Iain

I think so. Mantles I have been quite impressed with These which replaced 21W bulbs in Copperkins, and have comparable performance. (I see Ultraleds are doing a 12 LED unit now, and also, if starting from scratch, it would be better to start with a light unit designed for LEDs, rather than re-using fittings.) I can't comment, as we don't use gas lights , but I'm not sure if they come with Flame Failure Devices. (If not, I don't see new units passing a BSS) Iain

If the water trap is on the engine itself, it will vibrate, which will tend to re-mix the fuel and water. Iain

But is it? If the bore is circular, or semi circular, then yes. However, if rectangular, and assuming the same depth (and I'm not suggesting building a tunnel like this, although Falkirk comes close ), then two times more earth removed would do it. On a wide tunnel, the roof arch could be made shallower,which would cut down on the soil to be removed. However, wide tunnels would bring their own problems with stability, and the cost would probably end up at around four times that of a narrow tunnel? Iain

Yes, especially if it's on the "suction" side of the fuel pump. Iain P.S. "Suction" in quotes, as I don't really want to get into a discussion as to whether suction exists. Iain

If it has 240V, then earthing required. (What happens if a fault makes your hull live?) See Gibbo's site for explanation. Iain

Is the Alde already installed? They are a bit expensive to run, especially if heating water for a bath. That said, two sources of heat are better than one, and diesel may not be available on a butty IMO, if gravity circulation can be made to work, it is better than a pump, as there is less to go wrong and no electricity needed to circulate water round the system. The squirrel will burn coal (or wood briquettes as a greener option), which makes it easy to keep lit overnight, as well as increasing heat output. Iain

If, on the other hand, there is no water until the pump kicks in, or a little water followed by none until the pump starts, the likely cause is some blockage in the pressure switch. If the switch is built into the pump, there is usually a very small hole which lets water into the pressure part of the switch. This hole can easily get partially blocked. Iain

Problem we had on Copperkins a few years ago was that one of the lower nuts would slacken off, which would lead to a fracture in the opposite engine mounting leg (cast ally ones). The later legs are bent steel bar, which are a lot stronger. I suspect that the old legs also "gave" a bit when the mounting nuts were tightened, as we haven't had a problem with slack nuts since we got new mounting legs (along with a new engine!) Iain