Eeyore

As already said; D+ to one side of the bulb, and other side of bulb to a switched positive from the ignition switch. Main Positive from battery to the M6 B+ stud.

P6rob, is there anything confusing about Alan de Enfields post that I am quoting above? On a more practical note, you can save the premiums on your life insurance and funeral plan, they ain't going to pay out based on what you are telling us about the way you are using the generator. Just saying...

Just invite the examiner back to inspect the work done and pay any monies due for the second visit. The certificate is issued to the vessel and usually held by the owner, so shouldn't be a problem. The survey on the other hand is the property of the prospective purchaser.

Sorry, caught out by the small print ☹️

Screws fell out of side cover and part of internal mechanism was able to move sideways and jam in the side aperture? The item immediately behind the cover appears to be at a “jaunty” angle. Well beyond any warranty claim, buts screws should have been fitted at the factory using a suitable “Loctite” type product. I doubt that any assembly line robots are losing sleep over this.

Then theres the shape of the filter to consider, the bit inside the sealing ring (including the thread) in this case. I once removed a filter from a friends 03 series engine, in less than one turn! The offending filter was concave, and barely reached the threaded spigot on the engine; the correct filter was convex and took about half a dozen turns to tighten. Sorry, I don't have the same info on the 05 series engine.

Kubota engines use different oil filters depending on base engine model. 05 series engines use a M20 x 1.5 metric thread and 03 series engines use a 3/4" UN -16 thread. Fitting the metric filter to the 03 series engine will end in tears. The threads just about hold on the tips of the thread, and will let go under pressure, emptying the sump into the bilge and seizing the engine.

It'll run direct from 12 volt supply according to many, but a 12 volt to 12 volt regulated supply wouldn't do any harm. There is a concern that charging voltages may shorten its life, but many are happily running them direct from the boats 12 volt supply.

It's job I've done. You tend to get what you pay for with hole saws. Slow and steady (and maybe I was lucky) and very nearly flush with the roof. The welds didn't seem to be a problem beyond the amount of time I spent standing in torrential rain doing the job. Battery tool and rain cooled saw ?

25 - 30 mm hole saw will sort that, you can file out the bottom to form an arch shape if you want it a bit tidier. (A finger sander will be easier) The small drain hole on mine caused something of a "water curtain" inside the boat in heavy rain ?

I’m part way though resealing the entire hatch/door area, having started at the threshold and working upwards. I notice in your first photo that there is evidence of water ingress between the lining boards ( to which the draught proofing is attached) and the inside face of the runner angles/upstand. Mine were attached using self tapping screws from inside. Expect to find rough metal edges and weld spatter on the mating faces, which will need a file before you reseal and refit the lining. I'm curious about the very narrow edge on the sides of your hatch. It would need to be a fairly snug fit (side to side) to provide security, which in my mind would reduce the likelihood of rain bouncing in ?

These should fit where the old ones are. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Campervan-12v-Dual-Double-USB-Socket-ON-OFF-Switch-USB-Caravan-Motorhome-Sockets/352622611071?hash=item5219f20a7f:g:zFsAAOSwm29dcQYe I think they used to do one with a cigar lighter type socket as well; no harm in asking?

A picture would be useful as Thorneycroft often fitted A127 types to their engines, but not always.

The Dickinson heater site has this useful little guide to flame colour. http://dickinsonmarine.com/dm/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Fuel-to-Air-Ratio-for-a-Clean-Burn-with-Diesel-Appliances.pdf Not sure if “lemon yellow” appears on Dulux charts; but it’s certainly the colour that I see in my Lockgate heater. I run on paraffin/28sec heating oil, the flame has yellow tips once stabilised, but will be entirely yellow for a while after turning up the fuel supply.

There was one of their wide beams in the dock at Diglis last week, came out as I was going in. The owner told me the roof had been repainted under warranty; I thought the rest of the paintwork could best be described as “disappointing for a new build”. The important thing here is that it was being dealt with under warranty.

Welcome to the forum New or used? Aqualine are the larger producer, so easier to procure new or used. You’ll be very lucky to find anyone with ownership experience of both brands; but there should be those who have worked on both.

Sorry, still bleary eyed after the Sunday lie in ?

You could try a small “base load” such as a table lamp plugged into the generator. This should keep the generators inverter active, even when the electronics in the washing machine are showing it zero load.

Dissimilar metal corrosion caused by life expired corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze is a possible cause; very much the same as you get with domestic radiators that need bleeding all the time. The corrosion inhibitors commonly have a useful life span of between two and five years edit - beaten to it by others?

Ahh, a fun time at HMS Phoenix ?

Sorry, I’m late to the party, but the cause of the failure is, as already mentioned, the lack of a timer. Anything other than an instant start when turning the key will result in the low resistance coil overheating. Being aware of the issue will allow you to “work around” the problem i.e never continue cranking if it doesn’t start instantly. It’s a cheap bodge by the mariniser that’s now costing owners a lot of money. A cheap work around would be to put a momentary contact switch between a switched ignition feed and the low resistance coil. Just tap the switch to set the solenoid after turning on the ignition.

Diesel engines are at their happiest when working hard, which is rarely the case on a canal boat. The main engine will enjoy some “high speed” work on open water; and the generator will love a diet of fan heaters for half an hour or so whenever it starts to get a bit smokey. Obviously not before you’re happy with the cooling situation.

Closest I’ve seen in a Narrowboat

I got a flounce just by asking for a photo; I think I’ll “dine out” on that for a while ?