Boater Sam

Still, you have the wrong pump.

The wiring is a shambles, rip it out and take a + and - feed via a fuse (30A) direct to the heater, it should fire up if the battery is well charged.

But the pressure gauge is reading zero!

Don't care, they are wrong. Half pump pressure. Charged to 47 psi would be for a pump giving 94 psi static pressure, thats 6 bar +, crazy.

"""The pressure vessel needs to be charged at 45 psi.""" Wrong. The accumulator vessel should be charged to half the pump pressure. If you up the prv you will be risking wrecking the calorifier.

Steel weighs 7850 kilos per cubic metre. Work out the areas of each gauge you want to use, X thickness, add it all up. Steel prices change daily, but at present it will be around £450 a tonne. Do you know what gauges to use?

Thermostat on a wall in the saloon?

The scum always rises to the top, the dregs are the ones who sink to the bottom.

What is causing these duplicates in the forums? Its not a problem but it means the threads can get out of step.

Much better sprayed rather than brushed. 2 pack automotive rattle cans and then the clear top coat. It lasts on cars till they rust away. Your frames are ally so no rust problem. Rub then down with fine wire wool, not sandpaper else the scratches will show.

I run a pair or 27w LED work lights pointing up and outwards. To light the cratch I can turn them right over. They are great for lighting raves in tunnels or even in the fields. Bat spotting, signalling to aircraft and frightening nighttime towpath walkers and cyclists are all good clean fun. Very safe for working locks at night. Is 54 watts of pure white LED too much? I can see for miles and miles and miles and mil...........

Tourrettes? Whatever, we can do without it.

Oh, a prop? I thought it was your eco fan. Never seen so much space above and below a prop. How fast do you spin it?

I've often considered adding a skeg brace bar to my boat. As built the skeg was a 5" X 3" RSJ. I cut the lower half off as I got fed up with it steering the stern of the boat when in the mud. Its well stiff still but looking at Joshers most had a re-enforced skeg, often a substantial casting. Does the brace interfere too much with the prop wash? Or the weight of the rudder action? That looks to be a small prop for the draft, is it?

Cheap ones have some plastic parts which fail in a frost or wear. Then they fall apart and leak badly. Proper ones are all brass. Personally I buy Grohe, German quality. You would only need to buy one. Fancy shower heads are a waste of money in a boat, they use too much water, you can't pump it out fast enough, then it runs out of hot water.

And where precisely are you going to put a grease nipple? There is no top bearing to grease, its a plastic/rubber sleeve. And its pointless on the bottom, you can't get to it when in the water and it will do no good either. The swan neck is repositionable on the rudder shaft unless it is a square taper fit in which case it is made wrong or, heaven forbid, someone has managed to twist the rudder shaft like a stick of toffee. Has the Hulk been playing with your boat, or Superman?

So its an outdrive then? Sticks out of the back like a fat leg? Not saildrive.

I've seen plenty on new boats that are off center, its near enough. Within welding tolerance! Check that the shaft is not too bent though. Is there a bit of plastic in the bottom cup or proper bronze? Some plastics swell in water, could be why its stiff.

If folk stopped spending on the daft non essentials like Sky, phones, drugs, booze, fags, gambling etc. they would be able to afford to buy a house like we did 48 years ago. Prices were relatively high as far as we were concerned even then, we had to skrimp and safe for the deposit. Folks want everything NOW regardless of whether they can afford it.

All sounds like a disaster waiting to happen to me. The present siting of the flue so near to the rear doors is bad to start with, covering it with anything even a canvas tent is a no-no. Is the bedroom at the rear? If so I would not sleep in it with the flue there and the Alde burning. If you make it higher, consider low bridges. Ask Alde certainly, I think the answer will be no. Altering any gas burning appliance flue is not allowed, it has to be installed according to the makers instructions as that is what the approval certificate was based on. You must be very wealthy to afford the gas for an Alde. How old is the heater? If it is of a fair age and will need repair soon, cut your losses and fit a real boat stove up front, or central even better.

They are foam pads impregnated with black whatever made for blacking solid plate cooking hob rings. Cleaner to use and just chuck away.

In view of the fuel duty charges to be implemented I would label the main fuel tank "HEATING" and have a seperate day tank labeled "ENGINE" for propulsion filled from that tank.

The top bearing is one of those rubber things, not a real bearing so that should not be seized. Bottom one could be but its hardly likely to be seized solid, its only a puny cup. Lots of spiders in the tiller tube holding hands?