Boater Sam

Sorry, have I missed something? You are stuck. why? At Bugsworth basin Whaley Bridge? What do you need, New Mills, Newtown is probably the nearest boatyard.

Oh, don't grovel too much, ? there are some on here who will eat you alive, better to stand tall from a position of command rather than get bullied off. Mostly they seem to be plumbers strangely.?

'Cos there's nowt on the side in the middle to tie 'em too. And springing the bow leads to tripping over the rope when exiting the cratch. Stern spring rubs the corner of the cabin on a trad. Tying bow and stern at an angle rather than straight on works well enough most of the time. Lets not have another diatribe on tying a boat up or speeding, its getting really monotonous. Some want there boats set in concrete.......................?

There are 2 days a year when you can paint a boat outside. These are the days when it is dry, not too hot, not cold, not windy, good light, no insects, no dandelion seeds, no one running a smokey engine within a mile and you feel like doing it.

I shall be too long gone to care. The next 20 years would be wonderful but I fear that my maintenance will not cope either. Some of the steel gates installed in the '70 are still perfectly usable, Bosley flight for example. And the few remaining cast iron ones will be there when we have gone the way of the dinosaurs.

For gawd's sake, some one go and start this engine for him. Before the meddlers here have it in bits on the towpath. Who is nearest?

Looks absolutely splendid, well done. Lose that 13 Amp double adaptor though, they are a fire risk and the vibration will not do it any good.

There is however a school of thought that the inclusion of an LED icompremises the effectiveness somewhat. It has to draw a current even though very small to illuminate

DoH! List er!

Pray what is a toby dvr ?

The world is full of crap, sometimes it collects in one place. These places are known as skips.

Clean and check all the connections on the starter battery, isolator switch, & starter motor. Check that the small terminal on the starter motor solenoid ( the bit the wires go to ) is clean and tight. May be a push on Lucar type. If you have the red detachable key type of isolator switch, rack it off and on a few times, they are rubbish and get lazy contacts. There is a possibility that your ignition switch contacts are dirty or burnt if it seems that the key has to be twisted further to get the click than usual. The click is the solenoid trying to pull in. It will fail to engage the starter if you have a bad connection or the battery is failing or flat. It could be faulty but unlikely. If none of the above work, tell us what the engine is.

You need to disconnect the wires, at least one of them that are connected in the controller from the thermistor. Its twin core cable, not polarised its just a thermistor on the end that must be clamped to the battery connection when its in use. I'm sure that it will be in the instructions. If you have none, look on the web or phone Sterling, Charles is a very helpful guy.

Possibly correct but what used the 52 Ah over night? Does this tally with your power audit? You need to work out how long it takes to get back to fully charged, if in fact you ever get there.

May be more sensible to sell the whole boat.................................

Way too much information. To each their own, I put mine in the washer.

The 2 core cable on the thermocouple could well be damaged somewhere, if it is shorting out the thermocouple it will trick the charger into thinking it is overheating.

Certainly, good idea but bear in mind if you run it down too far it will not start your engine when you put it back and if you leave it partially discharged for any length of time it will start to sulphate, I.E. die. You may find that one of the old cabin bank batteries is still fit enough to start your engine.

He is new,& a new member. He loves you. Stop bullying new members, its not nice. Or clever.

Precisely, you only dissed one at a time so the others were still discharging into the remaining duff batteries they were connected to. You need them all dissed to check the individual battery voltages to locate the faulty ones. That way you would of found the faulty one before they got hot and before they wrecked any of the others. One duff battery in a bank will destroy all the bank eventually.

Reading between the lines I realise that you have not disconnected the batteries individually but just removed the cables that connect the whole bank to the boat. This would have left all the batteries connected together, the good ones would have discharged into the bad ones as they are all connected in parallel. Hence the overheating of batteries as you attempted to charge them. You need to disconnect every battery at least the positive + end from its neighbours and the boat then measure the voltage of each battery individually to determine which may still be usable. Any showing less than 11.0v can safely assume to be containing at least one cell that potentially could be shorted out. Hence scrap, worth £10 -£13 at a scrap yard to offset the cost of new ones.

Its an insulated 2 wire thermocouple usually in a standard cable lug that is bolted onto a battery post like a connection. As it monitors the temperature of the lead lug or post it can get hot if the power lead on that connection is poorly connected. This could be what you are seeing here.

Which is why I said spurt rather than drip Tony. A spit is a better description, thank you.