Mad Harold

Having owned both a GRP cruiser and a steel narrowboat,I can say the narrowboat is easier to get on and off. The cockpit floor on the GRP boat was low and involved stepping up to the gunwales to alight and stepping down when getting aboard. The narrowboat rear deck is level with the gunwales and is much easier. There are other issues with a GRP boat on the canals,(only going from my own experience) they can be a sod to steer and moor up and cast off when it is windy because of their lighter weight,and usually outboard powered and wheel steering (which is usually pretty vague). As a matter of interest,you can get a narrowboat for your budget.Mine is a 30 foot built 1978 and was bought two years ago for £15K and was ready for use. Very little needed doing and is still going strong. I was lucky I suppose. Suggest you hire a boat for a week or so to see if it suits you. You will then know if boating is for you without committing several £K to it.

My boat is direct raw water cooled and I have a few suggestions as to where to look to solve your problem. Inlet strainer. Blocked or partially blocked. Water filter ditto. Weed can block the pipes leading to the water filter and from the water filter to the water pump especially if there are 90 degree joints in the pipework anywhere. Pump impeller worn out. Heat exchanger full of silt.

Don't take any notice about tattoos and hair colour.I know several livaboard boaters and if I didn't know that they were livaboard boaters,I wouldn't know that they were livaboard boaters.They have jobs,drive cars,clean their teeth and comb their hair.In other words,normal people. As I see it,your main problem will be the kids.Education,social life etc. Could you afford to buy a lower priced boat,and be a "weekender" untill your kids fly the nest?

Had a broken gear cable.A bit puzzling at first because it was stuck in forward. No spare cable and miles from a chandlery,had to improvise. A screw in the end of a brush handle hooked into the gear lever and with a deck plate moved back a bit sort of worked. Forward was ok because that was just a push down. Neutral and reverse were difficult because I couldn't feel which was which.Had to put a strip of aluminium tape on the propshaft so that I could see if it was turning. I was glad when I replaced the cable. I carry a spare now.

I think that's lock 5E and the HNC gets a little busier in summer with boats going through the Standedge Tunnel,which is only open from March to November. Outside these dates there isn't much point in using it,unless like me based in Huddersfield,I frequently chug along it for a lunchtime pint,and turn around.It's almost like having my own private canal,and I do enjoy my little trips.

On the Peak Forest last year I saw three narrow boats linked together. I'm guessing the size,but I think it was a 50 footer,a 35 footer,and a small open boat. All painted purple,and displaying a "Towing"sign. Crewed by a jolly looking elderly couple. I assume the 50 footer was the main residence and the second for storage,and the open boat to give the grandkids a ride. So perhaps a practical solution to needing more space?

I really hate pouring cold water on someone's enthusiasm,but,thinking practically,you have taken on a humongous amount of work and expense. Having once bought a boat needing "very little work" (Ha bloody Ha),I wouldn't do it again.It ended up costing much more than many boats that are ready to go,plus loads of work and hassle of sourcing parts. It may hurt,but I advise putting the whole lot on fleabay as a project,and buy a little cruiser that is ready to go. It will probably be cheaper in the long run,and save you perhaps years of grief.

Just after I bought my narrowboat,I did see a narrowbeam Freeman advertised for sale. (Sods law). It was called "Black Cat" and advertised by someone called Tugboat Tony. Had a look at his website,and it is still listed for sale,and fitted with a Kubota diesel engine. It's over two years since I first saw the ad,so it has probably been sold by now,and Tugboat Tony hasn't updated his website. Anyway,even if it is still available,I couldn't cope with owning two boats. Maintaining and the running costs of one is quite enough!

They are rather nice boats. Shaft drive,but usually with a Ford petrol engine. Beam if memory serves is 7'-6" so ok for most canals. Freeman did make a narrow beam cruiser,(6'-10" with a weed hatch and extra rubbing strips) but they seem to be as rare as rocking horse droppings. I know this because I looked for one before I bought my present boat.

Can't find it. Rather than getting involved in the bother and hassle with it,can you just move it along a few yards and tie it up with mooring pins?

I'm sure that I have seen this boat advertised for sale recently. Can't remember where,but I will have a look to see if I can find it

I have a cassette bog mercifully! A neighbour has a pump out tank without a gauge. When his boat starts to list,it's time to empty the honey tank.

I like it.Fairly modern (2004),so probably no corrosion problems,good make of engine (Barrus) which I think are a Yanmar base.A canvas cover over the cratch frame and you will have a good storage area for coal,bike etc. even though you will enter and leave on your hands and knees.The interior looks quite plush (compared to mine) portholes and quite distinctive looking. If it was 40ft and a bit cheaper I would be interested.

82C is the usual one with a normal cooling system.(Skin tank,keel cooled or indirect raw water cooling.) The 74C thermostat is (I am told by ASAP Supplies) used in hot climates. I use the 74C thermostat in my boat because it is direct raw water cooled,and because my system is unpressurised,needs to run a little cooler.

Thanks for the replies,Bizz. The feeler gauge method won't work because there is a lip on the stove face which fits into the string groove. Will go to the boat tomorrow to measure distance from the door to the stove face,measure the size of the lip,and the depth of the string groove. then do the constipated mathematician act (work it out with a pencil) and hopefully get the correct string thickness. Also,check for a warped door.(hadn't thought of that) Giving this a good dose of thinking about,I wonder if the string I fitted is too thick.It could be wedging the hinge end of the door too tight,and not squashing the string tight enough on the horizontal bits. Rather than use sausages,perhaps filling the rope groove in the door with Blu Tack, and shutting the door might be a better method.

Perhaps they don't want to sell it. A boat selling business might be a front for a people smuggling racket,or drug running.

Just replaced the sealing string on my stove.I think I used 10 or 12mm. Lit it today and with the gusty wind,smoke was blowing back from around the door. The stove is an Evergreen ST-0311,and unfortunately the book that came with it doesn't mention the sealing string. Stove string on the internet is sized from 8mm to 25mm. Does anyone know the correct string thickness for this stove? Too thin and it's going to leak. Too thick and the door probably won't shut. Any advice appreciated.

Fourth!!! Reading your posts I thought you a very sensible chap. But now.......

I vote for a dog. Suggest a Staffie .Friendly and docile with their owners and family,but can be very aggressive.They are incredibly powerful dogs,I know,because it took two strong blokes to pull one off his victim. With one of these aboard,any burglers will get off your boat much quicker than they got on!

That's about the best idea I've seen on CWF for a long time.

Don't have serious back trouble,thankfully,but after a few locks it starts aching horribly. I have dungarees with knee pad pockets,and to save bending my back when mooring,I drop down onto one haunch and then my knees,do the business with the line,back to one haunch,and get up with the aid of my hands. I don't reckon 'owt to this getting old business!