Ex Brummie

One little ommission, Mike. You lose 3 days pay on top of the exoorbitant course costs. When I was Oftec, they also had the extra cost of keeping up to date with their books. A set of 5 at about £25 each that they managed to 'revise' every 18 months, and it was the first thing checked by the assessor on your annual assessment.

Whilst on the dy dock at Stourport, unable to use my own facilities, I used the shower at the facilities block. They were clean, effective and very welcome after a days blacking. Like all facilities where there are a lot of permanent moorers, they were left in a clean condition for the next user. The problems always seem to be where users are transient and have no thoughts for future use.

From the reports and council tax situation it would seem to be on an unregistered residential mooring along with several others who all shared the same address. The publicity from the identity of the owner seems to have put the mockers on this site

Not a Paloma, but similar on a Morco. I needed a new thermocouple/overheat stat and a new pilot. The best I could see was about £120.00 for parts with a five day delivery. Opted for the Ferroli that Morco were using as a replacement for their recall. Delivered next day for £200, including all connection fittings. Fitting was virtually direct, and with electronic ignition I'm not burning a continuous pilot,; a big plus with the cost of gas now.

I'm pretty sure there will be a date code on the label. What instructions do you think are necessary for a component that is supplied without any external or adjustable components?

I'm perfectly serious. You choose to ignore the many reported faults with bubble testers after a few years service. I'm not saying that it is easier than pressing the button on a bubble tester; it is so much more reliable than a bubble tester. There are other aspects of a manometer test that a bubble tester cannot perform.

Purely a personal view, but why introduce a component into a gas line that has another number of joints/potential leak points, and after a year or two has a failure record. A test nipple and manometer is cheaper and more reliable.

All the anti fatigue matting I've seen is not a solid rubber, but more of a lattice pattern. I suppose that as its primary use is in an industrial environment, liquids passing through the holes keeps it anti slip. It also allows water to escape so the rust problem is avoided. A good friend once gave me a 4 mt roll of 2 mt width. I didn't realise how good a friend he was till I checked the price on line!

it's a 9ft cruiser stern and visibility is no problem with the boards up, and besides, black was the only colour I had because that what colour the gunwhales are, and 5 litres is a lot of paint. now i've got a tin of light grey, who knows what will happen inthe future.🤔

I found this paint on Amazon and in Black, used it to paint my gunwhales and also the engine bay. After a year, the gunwhales have a few scrapes, but the damage is no worse than the enamel gloss that was on before. I've just bought this in light grey to repaint the roof, and it brushes easily, cobers up a red paint in one coat, and at £51 for 5 litres, you get more than enough to touch up in future whereas more 'specialist recommended' paints are more that much for 1/2 the quantity. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DSJMQLLV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

As a retired service technician for oil appliances, especially vapourising appliances, I would avoid anyadditive like the plague. Any additive reduces the vapourising of fuel, and diesel particularly as a heavier fuel is on the cusp anyway. I too have an oil stove, and when FAME fuel was introduced, I fell for the additive publicity. The only problem I had was when I added some to the tank. By all accounts it is too easy to overdose which causes extra emulsification and blocked filters. I no longer add anything, and whilst I'm not a heavy user and with only about 2 hours a month of engine running between November and March, I've not had any problem since. I do check the tank for sludge and clear out any I find, which is minimal.

https://www.bes.co.uk/safety-relief-valve-3-bar-with-gauge-1-2-bsp-f-x-f-11348/?ref=gs&rnd=19162&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21012711577&gbraid=0AAAAAD9gc2mVECgcbpg7CdX1NW1RhHhw8&gclid=CjwKCAjwtIfPBhAzEiwAv9RTJhKb9d79ZHl7dU95cWioRx5NQfKZiwdE5sIeMV3HLlrG93fe8cOZehoCZXIQAvD_BwE Assuming your valve is 3 bar, there is a fuller selection on a Google search if the thread configuration does not match yours.

We've found the Flash Direct to Floor very effective used with a microfibre type mop. It only dampens the floor that dries very quickly.

I just found 2 cup hooks with plastic wall plugs, sellotaped to the polystyrene packing for the Ferrolli water heater I'd just bought, but not until I'd bought a pack of 6mm pan head screws with nuts that I'm sure will be a much better fix than a bodge cup hook solution. The screws hold the unit flat to the wall.

Why not consider belt and braces? A wrap of ptfe and Heldite. It ften worked for me with oil boilers when preformed pipework failed 0n obsolete burners. Pressure was always above 100 psi, often 175 psi.