Tiggs

No, they won't freeze and fracture due to freezing, unless we have another winter like 1962 / 62. The boat sits in water which never goes below 0 deg C apart from a couple of inches at the surface. oops - check out the Dail Mail now! They might leak for other reasons though - rust, bad welding, poor connections. Cassette toilets, by the way, also work when the canal is frozen and your boat can't move; which is why, if you live aboard you should have one.

Cassette. I don't think I've ever payed for emptying one, but some marina's do charge. I'm too tight to own a pump-out loo and I don't like the way most of them upset the balance of the boat anyway. It's a good idea to have a spare cassette. The cassette size varies with make, get one with the largest. If touring take advantage of public and pub loos.

If the sign does not have CRT logo on or does not give a legit reason of reservation, e.g. some commercial activity canal repair work etc, throw it in the nearest bin.

No.

So one of the alternators is not charging a battery. Which one? Without a manual, it needs a voltmeter to tell. Or just wait until one no longer works... Check, fuses and wiring BEFORE paying for a re-con'd alternator.

Given that you are not going to be charging at 50A for more than a few minutes*, unless you have about 50 batteries, 10mm will be more than adequate. It will have no effect on your max charge voltage since this will rise as the current falls. (*if you don't believe me then measure it or just watch the amp meter on the charger if it has one)

Tips for Harecastle: As well as your headlight, a powerful torch on the roof (on the back hatch, facing forwards) so you can see the front corners of the boat helps a lot Be aware that while the roof comes down in steps, it also goes up, you see it coming down and tend to duck under, but you miss it going back up again, you do this 2 or 3 times and you end up bent over with your eyes too low to steer the boat properly. Cabin lights on is good for any tunnel (except the back cabin, perhaps) Look out for the skeleton (if it's still there).

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu Was where I got most of the wire etc when I last wired a boat. What is "Marine cable"? You could tin the ends yourself... Me, I'd use plain coloured tinned cable - there is no need to comply with any colour regulation if you are replacing it on a boat.

Really depends where the pitting is. If its isolated to certain areas then not such a big issue. What does "it now has 5.7-6.0mm base plate & 4.8mm sides" - surely it was something like that thickness to start with? You can trust the survey if the surveyor is reputable.

It would be good if you had a metal loop on your roof to chain the bike to, rather than just making it so if can't be ridden. I don't think the microdots and stuff like are any good since they will only be looked at if the cops suspect its stolen and why would they do that? You should have your contact info engraved on though. Rust paint is here if you want to take Phil's advice http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1820_1_2861735.html BTW I once forget to load my bike onto a the boat at the top of flight we had just come up, it was 3 days before I looked in the engine room and realised that I had lost it (I didn't keep it on the roof you note). When we got back to the lock in a few more days I found that someone had taken the bike to a nearby boat yard and kept it in case anyone claimed it. So I got it back! There's a lot more honest people about than you might think.

Have to agree with that!

From an engineering point of view, it used to be said that running out of gear did the engine no good - one reason given was that the bearings were not loaded properly and they might skid and wear, another was that it did not get up to a reasonable running temperature (though what harm this might do I have no idea). With a modern (anything 60's BMC onwards, for e.g.) engine, especially a water cooled one running an oil pump, a water pump and the alternator I would suggest that this is no longer an issue (I'm not convinced that it ever was anyway!). As someone has already pointed out running the propulsion engine is not a very cost effective way of battery charging anyway and as others have said in gear running is against the rules and damages the canal, it also risks attracting debris onto the prop, so I would advise against it.

A cruiser stern would waste storage cabin length; trad would be better (and much better to move in bad weather too!) How do you intend to display your wares? I would suggest a broader theme - tea and coffee and chocolate might give you enough customers; mobile internet connection so you could trade on-line too just might give you enough to live on (although I doubt it). You will need to go to events (boat rallies etc.) or be in popular place to get enough footfall. I don't know how you do this. I suggest that you would need a back-up plan... P.

Your question does not make sense: "We were rather hoping that the oven would function off shorepower (without the fan running) but it doesn't - it just cuts out after a minute or two." Surely if you are running on shore power the fan will be working! Anyway, I would have thought 100W would be enough, this one http://www.belling.co.uk/media/593858/FSG60DOF-LPG.pdf uses 55-65W.

Sorry I meant only 7 RESIDENTIAL moorings. 153 others.

So there are only 7 vacant CRT sites in the whole country; interesting.

Yes, tell us about the anodes.

Having read the Morco instructions and a few other things, like the BSS LPG pages, I would advise that you move it to the kitchen. This is not based on any safety concerns since I think it is quite safe in the bathroom of a narrowboat which meets the BSS on ventilation because a) the bathroom should be ventilated high and low, the doors of narrowboat bathrooms (mostly) don't fit very well even if the low level vents are missing, c) most people don't have baths in them, only showers and since water supply is an issue (mostly) the don't stay in there very long. The only thing is that, in the future, some pedantic inspector may not pass it. See page 11 of http://www.morcoproducts.co.uk/resources/4_D61_and_G111_E_Manual_English.pdf Then see if you can find any national legislation that specifically allows an exception for boats - I know of none - perhaps someone else on the forum might...? As for the flue, I think it is generally accepted that for navigation purpose the flue will be shorter on a narrowboat installation and certainly it is common practice to have it less than 600mm.

I would definitely advise this too.

This might help - see page 31 onwards http://www.canaline-engines.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Canaline-handbook-June-2015.pdf

Moored at Stone many times. No problems. You can moor below the bottom lock, it's against a playing field where there might be some activity, or you can go up though the locks and moor at the top end of town, where I suspect it would be more peaceful. Done both. Sorry can't remember what the time restrictions are in the various places. You can moor short of the bottom moorings, the bank ok but its deep enough although the bank is a bit soggy for pins, but no problem with 14 days there. Shops and pubs very close.

If you want real power, forget diesels, you want one of these http://www.rolls-royce.com/~/media/Files/R/Rolls-Royce/documents/customers/marine/mt30-brochure.pdf

It might be good when it has more on it. They need to check out their dodgy programming though - for example you can't press <3 for a trader because the address pops up. I've added it to my bookmarks for canal sites anyway. Does someone have a list of such sites?

You can put 19mm locking washers on, like these (these are the wrong size - M19 you want smaller, M12 I think to go with 19mm spannered heads): http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/138481/?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=sea_shoppingWT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=google_search_UK&scamp=shopping&saddg=tools&gclid=Cj0KEQjwtO2wBRCu0d2dkvjVi5cBEiQAMEIVGZ6GjzYs9ih5d2Djwmhc-ltbjWyr5i57cBUhvxq8cT0aAhnX8P8HAQ or if it is a nut and bolt then put two nuts on, one tightened on the other or locking nuts like these http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/product/6655628/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK%7CShopping-_-Google+PLA-_-RS%7CLocking+Nuts-_-6655628&kpid=&istCompanyId=f7e7b05b-2daf-4c0e-8825-3633baf8113b&istItemId=xitmaqqwr&istBid=tztx&gclid=Cj0KEQjwtO2wBRCu0d2dkvjVi5cBEiQAMEIVGaRDWGIwT-U_k0VxXWacCgq7MfbFxdu0Ba0vrI339_caAuez8P8HAQ but, having said that, I think most are welded, and I can't say I've ever wanted to take the rudder off a boat.

Oh, I see. Well you can get a right angled gear that might help. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-rad-2-right-angle-drill-attachment P.