Silebyman

Might be dumb question but how do you check voltage at heater during start up? I’m assuming you don’t unplug the connector, and back of plugs are sealed.

Proper marine thermotop has decided not to start when batteries below 100% Got solar and started happily when sun out this morning. I’ve got a fairly recent set of batts, and at smart gauge 95% this evening it wouldn’t go, and needed engine on to get heater to fire up. Once it’s running it’s fine. Have I got a high resistance somewhere , or needing a decoke? Any ideas?

still possible I suppose they could clamp down again when the second spike arrives..Would be a bit unfortunate if you are 2 weeks away from home at boat speed

Nope I've not seen anything - seems a bit bizarre you can play sardines for a cheap pair of socks in Primark, but we can't sleep in the middle of nowhere

I've had the email as well - can visit boat, but not take it out for cruise is how I am reading it

I'm also moored in Kings Bromley, and really like it. I'm in the second of the pools mentioned in the post before mine, and though it can be breezy like anywhere else the surrounding banks are quite high which gives a lot of protection. Full length mooring fingers are nice having experienced short ones before which are a pain, One thing to note is they class it as a quiet marina ( which is no bad thing ) but they prefer it if you take the boat out onto the cut if you want to use any powertools. This is a bit of a faff if you want to sand and touch up a spot of paintwork

To answer 2 replies at once, The Beta comment is interesting - I've just been reading the manual. It's far more comprehensive than the token gesture manual supplied Izusu. No I don't have solar. The problem first appeared when I disconnected from landline last Saturday morning, so first assumption was batteries were fully charged and the alternator was shutting down. The problem was still there Sunday morning after an overnights worth of discharge.. So don't now think that was the cause. I'm building a list of things to check when I get back down to the boat in a couple of weeks time, such as corroded connectors, voltage at W terminal, alternator charging output etc before I condemn the alternator and cough up for another.

Sorry that was a typo. I meant A127 not ACR Think I need a session with a multimeter next time I am at the boat. Thanks for your suggestions.

Hi Tony. Thanks for quick reply. Is there a way of testing to confirm? Possibly running wire from engine alternator to tacho feed to see if it stabilises needle etc Its an ACR so not end of the world financially if I have to replace it, but it’s only about 3 years old. Is its short life just a consequence of living in a damp engine hole under semi trad, or is there steps I can take to make next one last longer.

I've developed a wobbly tacho needle on my Isuzu.. It's happening at lower engine speeds ( just off or at idle). When the needle drops I get a flash of the warning light, and a ping from the buzzer. I've checked the obvious stuff - the belts not slipping, can't see a broken wire, and the battery is still charging. The engine's done about 600 hours, but the alternator has probably done about 200 after first one died. One question which might ( or might not make me look really dumb) - should the engine be earthed onto the hull / bed etc as I've never found it. The alternator earths onto the mounting bracket, but I can't see an earth to bypass the rubber engine mounts. I've taken a video of it with my phone, but I don't think I can upload it here anymore Anyone have any idea's as it's driving me potty... Thanks in advance...

I've just been through the joy of replacing deck boards. I'd thought the deck boards were getting spongy. While I was stripping the alu plate off the top, I put my hand straight through it! Could have been nasty if I'd ended up in the engine hole while cruising along... New boards - I invested in proper marine ply ( about £90 a sheet). Then went for the west system giving them 2 coats of epoxy, followed by 2 coats of danboline bilge paint. If these rot I shall be fairly fed up!

Emailing system has always been very mysterious there. Sending an email to Gianna, sends it out to all moorers for example. Never had any idea who was sending the mails out in reality as all seemed to have access to each others accounts. Gianna was running the café - been there a while, but big step up to running the whole place.

I've quoted Fram P4178 at my local motor spares place, which they managed to cross reference to a WIX filter which is what's on mine currently. A Baldwin BF954 also fits. This website is useful https://indigodream.wordpress.com/2013/01/08/technical-isuzu-42-servicing-info/

I laid our well deck with said tiles in the spring. Stanley knife cuts them easily. I made a calibrated stick so could mark a pattern on the tile before trimming so it would follow curvature of the bow. Once done it looked really neat. Then they all shrank during the heatwave, so now theres about a 10mm gap all around... Fairly unimpressed...

Anyone know if bridge is fixed yet. Stoppage noticed out of date, and crt won’t reply to various messages I’ve sent them.

It's a bit strange they haven't made it public on their social media stuff (I get my stoppage notices via Twitter) I got the stoppage notice it was shut, but not that it was back open again. I only found out it was back open by rooting around the CRT website

According to CRT stoppages both locks are fixed ( or bodged back together ) Bit of relief as going through there in a couple of days..

Hi I'm moored at King's Bromley, so happy to help but I'm not going to be going down there for a couple of weeks - sorry. For filling with water, the taps are on the jetty's so as long as you have a long enough hose they you can fill the tank while moored up. For diesel you need to reverse in, but I'm sure if you mention it in the office they will give you a hand, they are a very friendly team. It's very sheltered round by the service dock so you should be fine.

I've just matted my well deck, after my wife slipped and did herself a very serious injury.. I've used this stuff - comes in a range of colours, and they supply free samples http://www.matrico.co.uk/product_versatile_pvc.html It's not cheap, but it was easy to lay and if it prevents another accident it's worth every penny.

Not sure about Pillings requirement for tidy looking boats. There are some fairly "rustic" looking boats in there.

I've got a shoreline fridge freezer, as we are a 12v only boat apart from when we are plugged into a landline. The shoreline switches between 12 and 240v automatically which I find quite useful. It does though try and freeze stuff touching the back wall as another poster previously mentioned, but it's not a big problem.

Diesel proof thread sealant - I used Rectorseal Tru Blu. available in toolstation for about 3 quid. Worked for me... https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p40236?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=s03aJg4QW_dc&pcrid=142003768299&pkw=&pmt=&product=40236&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_fzooeLN2AIVqwrTCh1x9A2JEAYYASABEgK4VfD_BwE

This is the item concerned. The threaded part you can see goes into the horizontal hole you need to drill and tap into the fuel tank wall ( gently as previously mentioned) The copper olive inside the other half is crushed down to nip the 5mm fuel pipe which passes through the fitting. Picture it like the pipe and valve arrangement on the water pipework, only this time you are screwing into the tank wall not a radiator. The fuel pipe needs to be bent to an L shape, so when all assembled the end of the pipe dangles above the bottom of the tank

Diesel doesn't ignite - drop a match in it and it will go out. I put my fitting as high in the tank wall as I could get to with a drill. Check, and check again you have the drill dia / tapping tool size correct for the fitting you want to use. NMEA advised me that you can get a 1/4BSPT - 5mm compression fitting (T=taper thread) from a company called BES. They do online ordering etc. The tapping drill to suit 1/4BSPT is 11.8mm When you assemble the fitting into the new hole in the tank, tighten it gently. The steel won't be that thick, and if you apply too much force you will rip the new thread straight out...