GrahamSop

I thought the diamond shape of Shipton and Aynho weir locks was just to add in more water to the canal each time they are used, since they are both just below river sections/crossings (both the Cherwell). We also got 3 boats up Aynho weir lock, and I never thought to consider the silt build up on the sides, though we were the middle boat. None of us got stuck though. My bigger worry was getting wedged coming out as one of the side boats was long enough to not be able to get fully over..

I finally got a spare key cut at Timpson's. It isn't perfect, as I have to feel around a bit to get it in just the right place before it turns in the barrel, but it will be fine for a spare. For anyone who is in the same situation, the blank they cut is a ERREBI MRT 1R.

I have now got a blank on order from Timpsons, which they think will fit, so we will see and I'll update here. I also got in touch with these people: http://www.keytrader.co.uk/key-identification.html but they couldn't identify my key. So fingers crossed for Timpsons. If it doesn't fit, then a new ignition switch is the plan B. I wonder where Engines Plus get their keys from? If only they sold blanks!

Good idea, I do have a code on my working key. It is '54'. Haha, doesn't help narrow the search very much but I'll keep trying!

Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately the man at engines plus said that's the only Isuzu key he'd ever stocked, but maybe I should speak to another person. Am I correct in thinking engines plus is the main/only isuzu 'supplier/dealer' that would know? Are there other places? No luck so far on eBay either, it's a job to filter out all the car type keys which are obviously far more numerous.

I hadn't thought about that! It may not be, the logo/indicator labels are pretty worn off... Any ideas? Photo attached of mine. It looks like (a very worn version of) this one: http://jhalfie.blogspot.com/2012/11/engine-reluctant-to-start-after-few.html

Hi all, We have only one engine key, so I'm trying to get a spare incase we lose it. It's an Isuzu 35, from around 2003/4. I bought a new Isuzu engine key from enginesplus a few weeks ago, only to find it goes in fine but doesn't turn at all. The shape is completely different to our existing one - I've attached a photo. If you have an Isuzu, I'd be curious to know if it matches my shape or the new one which doesn't work. My key is the lower one with the split ring. I can't find anywhere else that sells them, so if you know a seller please let me know. I even tried Timpsons, but the guy looked through their whole catalogue of blanks and nothing really comes close to the right shape, so he wasn't sure he'd be able to make a copy. He did tell me to go to another Timpson down the road where they deal with a lot of boats, so I might try there. Thanks for any help!

We did that trip at the end of last summer, coming back (just) before the rain began at the end of October. We are still on the river in the Oxford area. It has calmed down a bit in between the storms, and during the 1st week of Feb most reaches between Oxford and Reading were either on yellow decreasing, and some on no warnings. But... the channel above Osney lock and under Osney bridge is very shallow and narrow and has been on red since Nov 1st last year. Folly bridge just a bit further south is quite a bottleneck too, as long as Osney has some weir open it really speeds through there. Once the Osney-Godstow section is off red then the rest of the river (at least down to Reading) I should think will be safe. We are hoping the next 2-3 weeks will finally give the land a chance to drain and get the river towards more normal levels! But this winter has certainly taught me not to get my hopes up ? There are still quite a few submerged fields around the city. Keep an eye on gaugemap if you haven't found it already, and use the river levels downstream of the locks. Unfortunately the flow meter at sutton courtenay popped it's clogs in November....

Ok, thanks! I was thinking to put a bleed point at the top just in case.

Sorry for the lack of context. Everything is working fine, I'm not replacing them, just thinking about shortening them, as I'm possibly moving the calorifier back by about 1.5m. If it's fiddly and not worth breaking the circuit, bleeding etc. then I won't bother, but I'd like to know more about the circuit...: Yes, this is what I want to know. I should have said "the only coolant header tank". It's at the top of the engine, above the exhaust manifold. Good to know that you think the coolant in the calorifier will have come from the engine header tank. Tonight I can check exactly where the hose connections are on the engine, but they are in the vicinity of the water pump. Unfortunately there aren't isolation valves where the calorifier hoses come off the engine, so I'm not 100% sure what will happen if I open the circuit. I imagine any coolant higher than wherever I make the break will drain out, but maybe the pump when not running will prevent it from draining? But if it's all one system, and if it is fed from the header tank, will it self-bleed any air that gets trapped when putting everything back together? Thanks for all the help so far

Hi, On an Isuzu 35, does the calorifier circuit take coolant from the main engine header tank, or is it a separate circuit? I need to replace the hoses going to my calorifier. Thanks for any info

Hi all, Over the weekend I installed an R&D type flexible coupling, and to do it I had to remove the split half-coupling from my propshaft anyway, in order to get the old bolts off it. After installing the new R&D flex and reclamping the half-coupling onto the shaft, doing the pinch bolts alternately, I'm happy to say my alignment is now much better ? I think the reclamping of the half-coupling was what made the biggest difference, as now there is <0.05mm movement on the shaft, but there is also barely any angular misalignment, judging from the red bolt system on the R&D coupling with feeler gauges. But I'm happy to have the flexi coupling installed now as well - all runs much more smoothly and no engine oscillating around in the mounts any more. Thanks for all the helpful replies!

In an ideal world that would be nice. But this would definitely need a shorter propshaft and the boat out of the water. Maybe one day. There are plenty of boats without a thrust block, and my mounts are in pretty good condition so I think for now I'll make do with how it is. Interesting suggestion, I might try loosening and re-tightening to check this, thanks!

Thanks Mike, glad to have a second person suggesting either the shaft is bent or the coupling is not running true. Thanks Tony, it is a split half coupling with the clamp bolts either side of the shaft. I will have a look more closely, I am not sure if it has a key or not. I don't have a torque wrench but I do have large socket set with breaker bars etc. I'll try again putting the shaft in the V block and try to determine if it is the shaft that is bent or the coupling. Regardless, I think I will get a flexible coupling for now, as I'd be happier taking some of the vibrations out of the gearbox flange. It seems a sensible addition to have in the drivechain anyway. I have plenty of room between rudder and prop to push back the 3cm or so to get the flexi coupling in. But is it a bad idea to have this length of shaft sticking out the other end of my cutlass bearing, between the end of the bearing and the prop? I have no plans to take the boat out of the water until next year, so shortening the shaft/getting a shorter one is not going to happen at the moment.

Thanks Tony, Yesterday I spent a few hours trying to get the alignment as perfect as possible using feeler gauges between the two flanges (gearbox flange and my split half-coupling on the propshaft). Unfortunately after bolting everything back up it is only very slightly improved, and the shaft still moves about 0.3mm when it is turned. However, I think I discovered a bigger problem: After aligning as best as I could, I mounted the base of the dial indicator to the engine itself, not the hull. First I measured the radial displacement of gearbox flange. this was zero. Then the flange on the half-coupling, this was also fine, <0.05mm. Then I measured the propshaft to have a significant displacement. The further I measured from the coupling, the bigger the displacement. So it seems my propshaft is clamped at a slight angle in the half-coupling, or it is bent. I think this is the main cause of my vibrations and it explains why I can't align the engine better. I am pretty reluctant to loosen the half coupling as I think it'll be the start of other problems like not getting it tight enough again, or making the alignment even worse! I could possibly fit a flexible coupling between the flanges but I feel it's really covering over the problem rather than sorting it out. What are your thoughts?