by'eck

I was always in the change the oil at end of season camp, to reduce corrosion from acidic elements left in an unused engine. It was pointed out though that changing at beginning of season takes with it all the condensation that has acrrued over the winter, such that running engine doesn't suffer with emulsification from such. In the event and with a 450 hour oil change period, I just change when necessary now.

The temperature sensor relies on heat transfer ideally from the negative battery post. It's mounting lug is electrically isolated and just serves to conduct heat to an integral thermistor and on via two wires. When you shortened the cable, can I assume you maybe twisted the two, probably fine wires, together before putting new terminal on? If so you may have done no harm. Simply separate the wires and reconnect the two to the part of temp sensor cable you cut off and start again. The red LED hopefully won't illuminate then. If it does a Victron repair may be required. Unlikely that damage in that area would be covered by a fuse.

Well since its an external alternator controller the piggy back negative connection should clearly go to the alt negative. Agree that the sensing connection should ideally go to battery negative though. Since the wires are same gauge/colour though you are not to know which is which.

Chris there should be two black wires from the Sterling regulator. They both need to connect to the same alternator negative connection which may be a dedicated B- terminal or the casing. As one is for voltage sensing, they must remain separate (even if there is a need to extend them) until this connection point otherwise the sensing will be compromised. If your installation doesn't confirm to above it may explain the trip light, although this indication is omitted on latest regulators.

Yes not enough charge current to offer sensible re-charge times. Would suggest a 50 amp multi-stage charger for your proposed configuration. Remember also you will likely need a little extra in reserve to cover drain on your DC system whilst batteries are being charged.

Well that''s the beauty of the hand drill gearing on my installation. It allows just that. With delicate adjustments I can also get changes in engine revs that I can just hear but that hardly alter the tacho.

My trad engine Speedwheel employs a Stanley handrill bevel gear near the roof, dropping via vertical rod to engine control. An old socket set swivel UJ coupling welded to bottom of rod helps align everything. Works perfectly allowing fine control as well as quick response when needed.

EA licence, anchor and life jacket, although neither obligatory. VHF only needed downstream of Brentford. I think there are no lock based VHF stations above Teddington anyway.

otherwise there might be another boy in the Severn

Had to fit some of that reinforced clear plastic tubing over a hose barb the other day. Heating it with a hardryer helped a little but dunking it in near boiling water totally softened it allowing fitting with one push.

Most chandelries and marinas sell Morris Golden Film low detergent in that grade.

I use a Garmin GPSMAP handheld with colour display, typically with external 12 volt power lead although it takes AA batteries. I added the UK database microSD card which shows all roads and canals. You can save routes and tracks.

You also try Francis Searchlights since the company still exists.

Polish brass then apply Rylard Incralac - available as spray in aerosols or brush on.

Tony Redshaw rebuilt Gardner 2L2 anyone (with a deep pocket ) does include PRM gearbox though.

I suspect from reading other posts that you are getting confusing advice on this thread. The nut or nuts should be tight to each of the studs they are screwed onto, so that the relatively light pressure placed on the adjusting flange for the stern gland is locked. The adjustment is made equally each side so the flange remains parallel to the stuffing box and with the minimum pressure to stop any dripping, commensurate with being able to turn prop shaft by hand. The adjustment is then usually secured by locking two nuts against each other on each of the studs. It appears on your photo that at some time the gland as been overpacked causing the adjusting flange to sit further out, and leaving a minimal amount of stud to fix two screws on. One solution would be to use a single self locking (nylock) nut on each stud that once adjusted would achieve the same goal.

Electricity 's colour blind, but the does prefer to travel down some metals in preference to others. Not exclusively metal though, it will reluctantly travel through damp wood and can even be persuaded to jump through air if the voltage is high enough. It tends to make quite a fuss when doing this though

I have a possibly related issue with my day tank gravity feed to engine via a Delphi filter/agglomerator below. After changing element and turning feed gate valve open, I am able to bleed out only some of the air via bleed valve. There is seemingly adequate pressure as fuel then spurts out of valve after the initial air bleed, but the agglomerator bowl (a clear Lexan one) shows barely a quarter full, with no further improvement from more bleeding. Undoing bowl drain screw doesn't help. The answer is to start engine and watch the bowl slowly fill as fuel is pulled through assisted by gravity, taking around 5 minutes at idle. Everything then behaves normally. This has been repeated on every occasion filter element has been replaced. I typically change the filter with day tank only a quarter full as that is how its left after a days cruising. It's been suggested that a greater head of fuel would avoid this issue, but I'm sceptical as plenty of fuel squirts out of bleed valve. In fact I wonder if this type of filter relies on a lift pump providing suction to pull the fuel through from tank and so allow normal bleeding of filter in between.

The shallowest part is/was from east side of lock along Whittlesea Dike to Floods Ferry. This as carefully calibrated by my 34" draught boat late 2014, early 2015

I remember flying an insurance assessor friend to the builders boatyard in Holland to assess extensive damage to a brand new luxury powerboat that hit a fishing boat when the FBW engine controls went haywire on delivery voyage south. Apparently no one had considered the the need for emergency engine shutdown buttons.

Thanks David, but well aware of the name origins. Question was, what is the connection (as implied by OP) with handspikes since as you say the name has greater Lancashire origins.

Intrigued by the reference to Ecky Thump since this is my boats name. What's the connection to handspikes?

Given your batteries are 110 amp hour capacity they are probably commonly used leisure ones. On a boat they can last as little as six months if abused, but likely 4 to 5 years max, by which time their capacity will be less than half original. Yours are completely shot. Given above I would suggest as a new boat owner you replace with the same economically priced leisure ones, before going for anything more exotic and expensive which could still be ruined in short order by a poor charge regime. Expect to pay £65-75 per battery for leisure. BTW the 90 watts you quoted relates to instantaneous power. If your solar could deliver that for an hour you would have put 90 watt hours of energy into the batteries, minus modest charge losses. 90 watt hours would approximately equate to a more meaningful 7 amp hours, not a lot when you consider your total original capacity.

Fine if it's possible, but certainly won't work for all. It's often advantageous to have one boat set off first to ready the next lock in a flight given there may be only space for one boat on the lock mooring, whilst the others crew close both gates of previous. As with all lock advice it can only be particular to a single lock or maybe a flight with the same features though. In this case you have the added variable of another boat and crew. Best to discuss with them how they prefer to work things. I usually find after couple of shared locks into a flight, a routine is established which works well for all.

This source may be better if you just require a bulb. You need to identify the original bulb fitting though. I'm guessing BA15 or BPF if it's a bayonet type.