Chewbacka

Fully agree - in the middle of nowhere in winter, simple is most certainly best. Over complex may also be very difficult to sell when its time for your next boat.

How about a couple of gas struts? Problem is the ones for cars are maybe have too much force (100N or more) where as the ones for cupboard doors are available at 50N (sometimes called 50Nm on ebay because the sellers don't know the difference between Newtons (N) of force and Newton Meters (Nm) a measure of torque) may not be very rain/rust resistant. But for a few quid on ebay it may be worth a try. Added Of course the other concern is they will push the door fully open even if you only want it part open I am beginning to think this is not a winner.

Toolstation and Screwfix both sell it About £60 for 50m

It's very useful if fitting out a boat yourself and want to comply to the RCD regs. When I finally finish the tech manual and the user manual I'll be able to self certify............................. Added From memory the self cert person only has to make the tech manual available for 10 years, at my current rate of progress the 10 years will be up before the tech manual is finished................

Sorry - I failed to check the link actually works. Try this - http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p19855 or search on drain dye Added You can also add a tiny amount of this stuff to your engine coolant if you have any coolant leaks to find the source. You will need a UV light and low ambient light levels. Obviously don't spill even a drop on the side of the engine or your hands as you will be very confused as to the source of the leak.

Where can water come from???? It could be from the pipes after the pump and before the taps. If you have an accumulator and Expansion vessel, depending upon the size it could be s much as 0.5 litres before the pump kick in. So if it is a small leak you would probably not notice the pump working more than it should. The next is drains and the prv (pressure release valve on the calorifier that may leak. After that there is the chance that rain is getting in, either from the deck drainage or windows. As discussed in another thread currently there are fluorescent drain dyes that can be used that will identify even fairly small leaks from non pipe work leaks either by adding the dye to water and pouring it down the drains or spraying it where the rain falls. For pipe joints/prv it is best to wrap then in kitchen/toilet paper to see if any joints are leaking. Finally there is the possibility of condensation running down and collecting at the low point, but this should not be a problem this time of year. Sorry to not give you an answer, but it is going to be a case of check the easiest things first until you find it.

I borrowed a flow meter and put it on the hose. Filled the tank from empty and every 100 litres read the dip stick. Now I know how much water is left for a given height on the dip stick.

But you can read them - but not print - on the Manchester Library web site. This may work http://www.manchester.gov.uk/directory_record/162241/british_standards_online Added - It may require that you are using a UK IP address.

If you still can not find the source of your leak then a fluorescent dye for checking drain leaks may help as it glows under a black light helping to show the trail back to the source. It is only for drains, don't put it in your water tank You don't need a lot as one pot (approx. 230g) of drain dye will treat many tonnes of water. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p19855 Amazon and others sell battery UV torches for less than a tenner. It does need to be fairly dark to see the glow and do NOT shine UV light into eyes. Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flashlight-Blacklight-Detector-Batteries-Included/dp/B00GU556SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465575895&sr=8-1&keywords=uv+torch+395nm

By mould preventer I suspect she means one of those plastic basket/tubs full of silica gel or other moisture absorber.

Sounds like it normally takes 6 months to a year, but can be done quicker if the temperature is raised. http://www.eco-toilets.co.uk/faq-storage-and-composting/ I know have a mental image of bags of 'compost' sitting next to a nice warm engine for 90 days. Not sure my better half would agree to this method..........

If you read post #33 you will see the deal is done.

Batteries often have an internal fuse, worth checking with the manufacturer if yours have and it's value. If the terminals are getting warm it may be the fuse getting hot in which case it might not last long. I think that the fuse is not normally replaceable, so if it blows the battery is scrap.

I would open up the tank inspection hatch and see if there is anything in there that shouldn't. Mine was just lots of rust, but I have heard stories of others with a leaky inspection hatch with whatever was on the front deck leaking in. I just cleaned and repainted my tank with 2 pack epoxy - not a nice job - but hopefully it should last a fair few years.

Pressure switches are not anywhere as expensive as a new pump. I know what I would do

I seem to remember seeing a CRT notice saying a small stretch of canal was 'no mooring' for the duration of some event. So unless CRT have said so I would think he has no authority to 'order' you. That said, If it was not especially inconvenient to me I would move - as I have in the past - as the guy does not choose his peg and so why disadvantage him and spoil his morning.

Tilting panels will maximise the output, basically the panel needs to be at right angles to the sun. However this also means that to get the most output you would also rotate the panels to keep it pointing at the sun as it moves across the sky. In the summer I have more than enough panels to cover our needs (400w) and they work fine just flat. However in the months when the sun is low down in the sky I do not get a lot and then tilting and rotating would make much more of an improvement. 250w might be enough, but it sounds a bit low to me - all depends on how long you watch TV for, how often you open the fridge etc

Did you use the inserts inside the pipe for the compression joint? If not it will leak. If you swap to a JG valve - I assume you mean push fit, you will have to cut the ends of the pipe off as you will not get the olive off if you tightened it correctly, so the pipes may be too short. Possibly you did not tighten it enough, which is why it leaks.

KirstieH - Good to hear you got your boat. I wish you lots of happy boating.

The beta 43 is a simple engine, there are no sophisticated electronics to run any form of self test or diagnostics. The engine over temp and oil pressure are just simple switches. Upon start the oil pressure is zero so the low pressure switch and hence buzzer are on. The temp is low so the over temp light is off. You will notice that when you do an oil change the buzzer sounds for longer on the first start as the oil filter fills up.

Just examples of the complete double wall kit required to meet the (advisory for boats) regulations - Morso Narrowboat straight flue kit from Ely boat chandlers = £529 Morso Flue Kit Offset Version from Budget chandlery = £604 Canal Boat Stove Fitting Kit from Salamander = £585

Moving a stove is surprisingly expensive even for DIY. Assuming none of the existing stuff can be reused then roughly it will cost you at least a couple of hundred quid for the hearth and back board and tiles etc. A new flue will be about £500. And then the repairs to the previous location. These are very approx costs for the bits, nothing for labour. The regs also require certain clearances which may incur further trouble moving cupboards etc. These clearances can be reduced with the use of special thermal boards (expensive). I would leave well alone until you are certain you want to move it, and where to.

BES is very good but be careful as they sell 3/8 pipe in both 0.7mm (22 gauge) and 0.9mm (20 gauge) wall thickness. Some suppliers only sell the thin wall stuff for gas. So it is no longer safe to assume all 3/8" imperial pipe is 20 gauge. If you like metric you can get 10mm pipe in 1.0mm wall thickness but I forget where. Normally 10mm pipe seems to be 0.7mm and used with inserts - our local caravan place uses this - not suitable for boats.

Thanks everybody. Always better to use somebody that is known to others.

I must admit I always feel the difference between a good and bad supplier is how they put things right. Looks like you got a good and fair result. Well done to you and the supplier.