Slim

Some years ago a friend retired and got a part time job driving people to and from hospitals, daycare centres etc. He was sent on one 'elf and Safety' course where they were given instruction on the use of a fire extinguisher which was accessible from the driving seat. They were told that the extinguisher was intended to aid their personal escape from the vehicle in the event of a fire. They were specifically told not to attempt to help passengers but to call the emergency services. I have no reason to doubt that this was what they were told.

JJay, Not trying to hijack your thread but I'm in a similar position. If an offer pops up I assure you that you will have the first option. My 23 year old boat had a back to metal full repaint 3.5 years ago and it was a disaster. If it all went back to metal and had the full 6 coats of Craftmaster as agreed then I'm a dutch uncle. The boat is in the Cropredy area. I would want to stay with the present colours Midnight Blue , Brunswick Green? with the roof a light blue, shade unknown. Thanks and apologies again if you feel I'm hijacking Frank

I was going along with your views but 'Eastenders' Yak, Yak,Yak. On the other hand watching paint dry is interesting.

My thoughts as well. I've got all the kit but only used it once in what? 10 years. It's now in the workshop on a shelf.

PLASTIC ?..In 2019! Wash your mòuth out.Whats wrong with matchsticks?

The last marina i was moored in charged more for a mooring nearer the shore

Alan, where do you see a water line In the 1st photo?

Not pretty but. To me it looks like the boat was built with a separate bilge for the stern gland. This doesn't seem to be full. If I'm correct you can rule out a leaking stuffing box. For a cruiser stern left for 6 months the water level doesn't seem too bad to me, especially if the drain channels have dead leaves / debris in them. To me it's significant that all the bilges have water in them. Also there's a lot of rust higher up. As a semi trad owner it all points to water getting in from above. If you do buy it you've got a fair amount cleaning up and making good ahead of you. Good luck

Over the years I've come across several types of card controlled bollard meters. For me they all have one major failing. They're all mounted fairly low down the bollard below the socket. Normally about 15" or so above the jetty. Trying to read the instructions and press the appropriate faded, coloured buttons with stiff knees and back whilst wearing variable focus glasses is a faff. Often the only option is to kneel down (not easy) on an inevitably wet jetty. No, I go along with the Metermaid solution mentioned earlier. ?

Send them along to me

Where can I get a pair of knees like his..? ?

Not wishing to hijack the thread but does anyone know the pressur the oil goes through the cooler at? Have asked PRM but they couldn't tell me . Thanks and apologies to OP Frank

Want WiFi ? Oh yes. A nephew and his family holiday in France every year. This year they went to the west coast of Ireland. 4 out of the 5 of them had a great time. The 5th a 14/15 yearold girl did nothing but moan. With no wi fi she was lost No Facebook, Twitter and several others I've never heard of. Social media reigns supreme.

As a semi owner I would echo these views. I got mine foe additional dog security so are quite happy with what I chose but sitting in the cockpit, forget it.

Was it Mr Heath or Mr Robinson who fabricated your aerial bracket? ?

Not far removed from mine apart from two things. 1) He looked in my gas locker from about 4 feet away and 2) He said "Thats £175"-

And, as it happens, new Volvo V90s. Main battery in the back, small battery in the front for stop/start. Dedicated terminal in engine compartment for jump starting etc Back to the OPs question. I have my batteries in a similar position to yours but offset to one side. Passed all BSS's since 1996 without question or mention. I did make sure the silencer was well lagged. On your proposal could you not move the battery immediatly under the silencer further forward. I know this would introduce the issue of connecting cable lengths but that's manageable.

That's the one. Was watching it a couple of weeks ago on DVD

The 2007 post was as a result of someone watching Granville in Open all Hours. Don't know how to poat a clip of the scene

Ideal length is just short of the prop. If I need mine longer, v deep lock or whatever I just tie an additional bit on. Going back to your original problem, may I suggest that when you check tnings out pay particular attention to your engine mounts. I once picked up a sheet of butyl rubber and whilst it came off after a struggle I later found that It had caused a bolt holding the mounting bracket to the block to sheer. The engine had to come out to extract the broken bolt. Just re-read the post that said rear lines. If you meant this ignore first paragraph, I suspect you meant centre line(s) The point made by ???? about removing the key is essential for ongoing nose picking and similar activities ?