rustproofing engine bilges and inside of hull

[squarelips]

Hi everyone-

 

Looking for some advise/ pointers on rustproofing the inside of the hull of my boat.

 

We have quite a lot of rust under the engine and bilges and there is water under the floor boards I want to clean it all out treat the rust thats there and black it! just want some advice on what materials you use/recomend and any other tips etc.

 

I was going to do this:

 

dry all the water out

scrub with wire brush

paint with VACTAN

once dry paint with two coats of red oxide

 

im not very good with materials and stuff and wanted to check these were the right things to be doing/using. I've heard mixed things about VACTAN but a guy at a boat yard recomended it to us. Will it be okay to apply red oxide onto it once its dry or is there something else that should go between them?

is there anything that should be painted over the red oxide?????

 

thank you for any and all your help. Always found this forum AMAZING for helping me out as a new boater! thank you thank you thank you

[RLWP]

You're going to need a topcoat on the red oxide, I have got on well with Danboline.

 

Richard

[Nightwatch]

I have just bought some Vatcan via ebay. I found it the best way to buy.

 

I see you are in the London area. Proformance Chemicals who make Vatcan are in Belvedere. i was going to call in on my way to Maidstone tomorrow but sadly i could'nt save the £8 postage as they are not open weekends. I rang them and they were extremely helpful and sympathic about the postage cost. Royal Mail have changed their postage costs and sizes.

 

I wanted to buy some Danboline to paint the ingin 'ole but have opted for Bilge Paint from Midland Chandlers (Their own label). I guess to get what you pay for. if affordable buy Daboline.

 

Martyn

[Kwacker]

I love Vactan ... it is my friend ... some small rusty patches on the cabin roof were touched up with it 2.5 years ago and are still looking inert

I've since touched up every spot of rust I can find pending the inevitable repaint, and it seems to just stop the rust dead, even if you can't overpaint it straight away. Admittedly the boat is slowly taking on a camouflaged look, but Hey Ho, I want to cruise in it, not oggle it.

[Tony Brooks]

You're going to need a topcoat on the red oxide, I have got on well with Danboline.

 

Richard

 

And I am very happy with Hemple (was Blakes) bilge and locker paint. My engine bilge (not the drip tray) has water in it 9 months of the year and the paint seems to be holding up well. I do clean, abrade and repaint every few years though.

[Nightwatch]

I was recently advised that 'Navy Jelly' or 'Naval Jelly' was a good converter.

 

Looked for it on line but found that it isn't available in the UK. So it must be good stuff.

 

Anyone aware of this and know a supplier?

 

Martyn

[Grace and Favour]

The active ingredient of 'Naval Jelly' is Phosphoric acid.

 

(it's also the active acid in Jenolite)

 

I just buy Phosphoric acid solution from Ebay (40% > is good) - the seller is pedrothefisherman (!)

Wire brush off the loose rust

brush on Phosphoric acid (it dries in 15 minutes.

Repeat application.

Wait 30 minutes

Lightly wipe over with Methylated spirits to remove any unused acid

Wait an hour

 

The apply whichever primer>undercoats>topcoats . paint system you prefer.

[smileypete]

Bonda primer can also be painted to reasonably rust free wire brushed steel, and someone here was told by the manuf that it doesn't have to be topcoated, though an extra coat could be a good idea. If applied directly to steel it also has a rust inhibiting action, it dries quick but needs good ventilation as it does so. Has a good reputation in the car restoration world.

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=24984

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bonda+primer

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited April 27, 2013 by smileypete

[PhilR]

If you can keep the bilges permanently dry you shouldn't need any rust treatment or paint on the bottom plate.

[George94]

If you can keep the bilges permanently dry you shouldn't need any rust treatment or paint on the bottom plate.

 

Indeed.

 

If....

[Keeping Up]

You won't get rust under the engine if it leaks oil.

[Neil2]

There's been discussions on here before about using products such as waxoyl. The problem is, if the bottom really is rusty there's no point in painting over it, but a treatment like waxoyl should impede the rusting process. But I recall a number of members expressing concern about using waxoyl as it stays potentially flammable for quite some time. I think Owatrol is a better bet, it's used a a paint conditioner but in it's raw state can be an excellent rust inhibitor. The idea is it purges moisture from the rusty surface and as it's runny you can just pour it into the bilge and let it slosh around whereas with waxoyl you have to get access to spray it over the surface.

[umpire111]

Someone suggested painting the bilge with a floor paint from Screwfix, would welcome views as ir does much cheaper then Danboline