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Tiling direct onto fireboard.


DeanS

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Hi all.

 

Is it possible to tile ceramic or 6x6 quarry tiles, directly onto a fireboard (what type do you suggest?) behind a solid/coal stove?

The space is a little tight (friends boat) and the flue will be close to one of the walls...

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Hi all.

 

Is it possible to tile ceramic or 6x6 quarry tiles, directly onto a fireboard (what type do you suggest?) behind a solid/coal stove?

The space is a little tight (friends boat) and the flue will be close to one of the walls...

That's how I did mine. They are fixed to the fireboard with no more nails type stuff. Still in there after nearly nine years. I think the board was called something like thermolux, but can't really remember now.

Edited by Guest
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I had and have since had no problems tiling a bathroom and firw surround on fireboard with ordinary bog standard but good quality tile cement

 

We used ornery B&Q cement and the tiles in the bathroom and around the log burner (These are on Masterboard) have lasted the five years and 2500hrs of cruising that we have had since then.

 

Nick

 

 

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I used ordinary tile cement too for my stove surround tiles with an solid mounted air cooled Lister vibrating the hell out of it, all still stuck on and been docked 5 times. But unit construction and held to the side panels by hidden brackets making an air gap.

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I tiled straight onto the fire board (i.e., Masterboard). I applied a gum-based adhesive straight onto the fireboard (6mm Masterboard), which was advised for its flexibility. Then, with those little plastic crosses at the corners of the tiles, I used a white mortar between the tiles. It's look great for six years. No cracks in the mortar.

 

Incidentally, I've recently had to take my coal stove out and had to take up the floor underneath, which has meant destroying the tiles and fireboard beneath the stove. I'm looking for about a 100 square cm piece of 6mm fireboard. I don't want to buy the whole 240cm by 140cm piece. It's expensive, and I'll have to waste most of it. Do you have an offcut of 6mm Masterboard that I could buy/take from you? Or, if you still need to by the Master board, would you like to split the board and the cost with me?

 

I'm based in Oxford, but am often in London.

 

All the best,

 

Jon

 

 

 

 

Hi all.

 

Is it possible to tile ceramic or 6x6 quarry tiles, directly onto a fireboard (what type do you suggest?) behind a solid/coal stove?

The space is a little tight (friends boat) and the flue will be close to one of the walls...

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I tiled straight onto the fire board (i.e., Masterboard). I applied a gum-based adhesive straight onto the fireboard (6mm Masterboard), which was advised for its flexibility. Then, with those little plastic crosses at the corners of the tiles, I used a white mortar between the tiles. It's look great for six years. No cracks in the mortar.

 

Incidentally, I've recently had to take my coal stove out and had to take up the floor underneath, which has meant destroying the tiles and fireboard beneath the stove. I'm looking for about a 100 square cm piece of 6mm fireboard. I don't want to buy the whole 240cm by 140cm piece. It's expensive, and I'll have to waste most of it. Do you have an offcut of 6mm Masterboard that I could buy/take from you? Or, if you still need to by the Master board, would you like to split the board and the cost with me?

 

I'm based in Oxford, but am often in London.

 

All the best,

 

Jon

 

Hi Jon, I don't think most people bother to put masterboard beneath their stove.

 

Mike

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having done about 19 boats tiled with flexi tile adhesive onto masterboard...trust me, it's fine! :)

That is what I used, the only problems I found was that it doesn't grab as well as standard tile cement and the stuff I used was dark grey and you had to make sure it was cleaned out between the tiles before it set or grouting was a problem.

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Before you put the tiles on give the masterboard a coat of PVA adhesive thinned about 3:1 (ie 3 parts water to 1 part PVA) and let it dry. This will stabilise the surface and allow the tile adhesive a better grip.

 

Yep...what he said. Also we used a heat resistant tile adhesive for our tiles. Been great.

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OK, so I'll use the flexi tile adhesive from Screwfix for the wall tiles.

 

I need to build a cement hearth for the stove to sit on. I've sourced some cement slabs, and I want to bond these to the ballast under the floorboards. Do I use a normal cement, or is there something "flexible" for this purpose. Quarry tiles will be added on the top (using flexible tile adhesive)....so I'm asking about the type of cement to use below that.

 

THANKS

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  • 3 years later...

Andy Watson

"Before you put the tiles on give the masterboard a coat of PVA adhesive thinned about 3:1 (ie 3 parts water to 1 part PVA) and let it dry. This will stabilise the surface and allow the tile adhesive a better grip."

 

Yep...what he said. Also we used a heat resistant tile adhesive for our tiles. Been great.

Are there any heat/degradation issues when using PVA to prime fire board? Is this Vitcas product exactly the same thing in a different bottle? http://shop.vitcas.com/vitcas-pva-adhesive-sealer-699-p.asp

I'm using 1" Skamotec 225 (effectively Calcium Silicate) which is being an absolute swine for adhesion. I've saturated the board with water first (as recommended), but have still achieved poor adhesion results with 'specialist' fire-board adhesives. So, I'm going to seal it up this time and try again, but wanted some extra thoughts on using standard PVA?

Also, is this 'flexi' thing, re tile fitting, all a little OTT then, given the number of posts above referring to successes using regular tile cements?

Has anyone had any negative experiences using standard products?

Many thanks, as per usual,

Stuart

Edited by NorthwichTrader
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Nice job, thanks for that! :)

Did you use the Vitcas grout too?

Didn't bother with the grout. The white is the original adhesive. To be honest I can't remember whether I actually used the Vitcas stuff. But it was certainly a strong, heat resistant adhesive.

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Also, is this 'flexi' thing, re tile fitting, all a little OTT then, given the number of posts above referring to successes using regular tile cements?

Has anyone had any negative experiences using standard products?

Many thanks, as per usual,

Stuart

 

 

When we did the last boat we took specialist advice from the place that sold the tiles. We were sold some fairly expensive cement, but also something to mix in to give it flexibility.

 

The job appeared a good 'un, but within months the tiles were beginning to fall off, and it proved easy to pull them all down.

 

I cleaned the tiles and the heat resistant board, and re-attached the tiles using blobs of heat resistant silicone, as is often recommended. I was cynical in view of the early failure of the "proper" product, but all tlles remained well attached until we sold the boat some years after.

 

I know what I would use next time.

 

Our heat resistant board was well attached to the cabin linings with little flex, and the tiles were heavy ceramic ones.

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