NorthwichTrader

Oh, fair enough! I hadn't realised the casting wasn't standard on ALL J gearboxes. I assumed the only addition to my box was the copper pipe soldered onto the brass plate, which I naively thought replaced a former drain cover. Anyway, best of luck with it all!

Thanks, Tom, much appreciated! Mike, as I'm sure you've already guessed, the pipe on mine is standard 15mm.

Wow, as always! Brilliant stuff! Mike, many thanks for the info. I've also included for your reference a couple of pics (not brilliant) of what is probably an added dipstick. Hi Clive, we're all well, as are you two I hope? Will message you later! :-) Many thanks for the dipstick offer, it was the sort of thing I'd have been thinking of, but BEngo's suggestion seems a very sensible way to go! I did recall Dick G saying a lot of the dipsticks had been cannibalised, so it could be the case with your's? dmr/Dave...brilliant info! As Clive said, great to know some of the rationales behind some of these things, so thank-you! BEngo, your usual brilliant self...will take up your idea on marking the stick, so many thanks! Ben (2542) many thanks for the link, very much appreciated! :-) AND, what a lovely little J, Dave M! What a brilliant, brilliant, forum! Thank-you SO much, chaps!

Can I ask what oil you're all using for your Kelvins? Also, from recollection (I've misplaced the figures Dick Goble shared with me AGAIN) I've got a figure of 1 1/3 pints for the gearbox (the dipstick is unmarked), does that sound about right? Also, I have no marks on the engine sump dipstick, either, so does anyone know the correct quantity (obviously we're overfull at the moment) in there? Many thanks in advance!

No secrets on here, then? Many thanks again everyone!

Oh, all sounds a little complicated, many thanks, though! Think I'll just politely mention it and see what happens? ?

Could I have some insights into what might be causing really, REALLY, noxious gases to exit from a toilet tank vent in a neighbours boat when they use the loo? They have a macerator-type toilet, and know very little about their boat (we have a cartridge toilet at the moment), so I'd like to at least help with a couple of suggestions when I mention it to them if possible? It is completely stinking out our boat so I've got to mention it! I'm guessing some sort of filter issue? I know they've recently pumped out, so it's not that! Is it possible to fill the tank so full that the filter gets clogged with raw sewage? Many thanks, as always!

Thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions. Am I to understand that no one thinks it a good idea to trim back the baffle plate then?

Thanks, Pete!Are you referring to an idea about removing it entirely?

Thanks, Dan, will give it some thought! Cheers, ExB, will look it up. All the cards are on the table, thanks, chaps!

Really interesting link, opens up other possibilities for conversion! Thank you! :-)

What about trimming back the front edge of the baffle plate a 1/4" at a time with an angle grinder? Can anyone think of any science that might make this a problem, that might make the fire perform badly? I suppose I could always try it and get a new one if the idea is a failure? Any thoughts? Best, Stuart

I had a brand new Epping Stove fitted into our boatman's cabin around 18 months ago, which I am now thinking of selling. It cost just under £1000, any ideas what it might be worth today? It's just completing its 2nd winter's use, and is rust-free. We will only consider selling it if we can find an equivalent-style diesel powered stove, if one even exists? So, does such a diesel replacement exist, does anyone have any experiences of vintage-styled diesel fires that are suitable for boats, and wouldn't look out of character in a traditional-styled boatman's cabin? The Epping has been brilliant, I'm just tired with tending 2 fires and, to be honest, we use the back of the boat less frequently, so would do better with something that is a little less time consuming. Also, I'm tired of getting a lung full of ash and fumes four times a day, between the two fires. Any help appreciated as always. Many thanks, Stuart

Not forgetting, of course, that 25kg of coal rattling down the flue each week will also do wonders for keeping chimney deposits down! No more chimney sweeps!

I started a thread recently to this effect. Basically, I'm coming 'round to the idea that you have to live with it, or otherwise throw your expensive heat up the pipe by removing the baffle plate, which I suspect would ultimately knacker the comparatively thin top plate of the morso stove? We've adopted Nick's approach and gone for loading quickly, and at appropriate times. I question the effectiveness of the air wash system on narrowboat installs, and wonder whether they are worth it at all? I think the heat that is necessary to make the fire draw as it's intended (ie in a house installation with the longer flue), which then activates an effective draw for the air wash system to work effectively, would make the boat inhabitable. We're getting a slightly taller and properly insulated chimney fitted in the hope of some improvement, though our expectations aren't high. I have to say, wood's a pain, but coal is far more tolerable, if a little more expensive.

Not sure if this demonstrates it better?

Here are a couple of pictures of the R W Davis vents, before being boxed in. The second image needs rotating clockwise, though I'm sure you'll get the gist of it. If you want outside images and/or dimensions just let me know and I'll post them up. Best of luck, Stuart

The air wash is independent of the baffle plate and, from what I can see of it, wouldn't be prevented from doing its job if the baffle plate was removed. In fact, I was only thinking today that the air wash system can only work properly with a good draw anyway! So unless you want to hunt the fire on and live out on the deck, it's probably not a feature that is overly useful in a boat install? Back to the baffle plate, I think a lot of heat would race away up the flue, albeit the flue would radiate some of that heat? Also it may serve to protect the stove top from extremes, maybe????

Yes, MP, I can shut off the air below but, sadly, with little effect on smoke spillage. Hi Glynn, I do have the safety bracket you mention, but this only prevents me from opening the ash pan door independently of the main door. The main door opens for refuelling with the ash pan door closed. I'm going to get a 'properly insulated' chimney that's around 10" taller, just to see if that improves the draw enough to improve things. Many thanks again to all, Stuart

This is the stuff I used. Very little burn off, would buy it again. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141192031302?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D141192031302%26_rdc%3D1

Many thanks, all! Just to further add... there isn't a half-moon plate fitted (but thanks for that suggestion), and I've not only had this smoking issue with the recent 'damper' wood, but also with 'good' ash, and now using just coal only. I've had the fire running very hot, and it still does it? Not quite as much, but still significantly so. Most peculiar, I can't fathom it? I know there are no blockages because I fitted the stove as a brand new unit and flue, just over 4 weeks ago. It's an infuriating stove to refuel, as you can imagine, there is absolutely no logic to it at all.

Hi, Does anyone have a morso 1430 with the air wash system (air vent in the back, operated by a slider beneath the fire)? We've got a 2m+, 4 1/2", flue on ours, yet, even when really hot, with 0 degrees outside, it balloons a load of smoke into the room when the door's open. We crack the door open gently, etc. Etc. It's a new install, so I know the space above the baffle plate and flue are unobstructed. We're burning pitch pine at the moment, which is a tad damp and a little smokey, but shouldn't all that smoke still have a preference to be drawn up the flue? It's quite literally that the entire contents of the fire opt to vent into the room, missing the flue altogether. The baffle plate is in correctly, can any of you think of a different angle, I'm totally baffled? Many thanks, Stuart

I paid £39 a sheet 1000 x 600 if that's considered a good price?

Hi Steve. We're in Saul. Anyway, apologies, but Oxford's going to be a little bit far. Best of luck with the job, Stuart

This is the thing, you see...what is an acceptable storage time for water before it becomes stagnant and vulnerable to bacterial growth? We are also liveaboard, but our water can last up to 6 weeks, the water tank is huge. Granted, we don't have a shower fitted, yet, but I'd still expect something in the region of 4 weeks for our tank when we do?