Re-tiling the shower

RichLech · February 19, 2014

Suspecting that there was some water getting behind the tiling in my shower, today I started ripping off the old tiling and found that the walls have been getting damp from about waist height down. I think water has been getting through cracked grouting. Two walls are ply and one is MDF and they will now be left for a while to dry out properly before re-tiling.

Has anybody got any tips for the re-tiling. I want to ensure I get it all sealed properly to prevent a recurrence.

Anybody know of a product I can use to seal the ply and MDF before I put the tiles on.

Many thanks.

Barry · February 19, 2014

This stuff

And then grout with silicon sealer

Edited February 19, 2014 by Bazza2

MtB · February 19, 2014

Suspecting that there was some water getting behind the tiling in my shower, today I started ripping off the old tiling and found that the walls have been getting damp from about waist height down. I think water has been getting through cracked grouting. Two walls are ply and one is MDF and they will now be left for a while to dry out properly before re-tiling.

Has anybody got any tips for the re-tiling. I want to ensure I get it all sealed properly to prevent a recurrence.

Anybody know of a product I can use to seal the ply and MDF before I put the tiles on.

Many thanks.

Making tiling impervious to water is incredibly difficult. Ordinary grout (even with additives) lets it straight through, it just doesn't crumble and fall out. You'll have to accept there will be water penetration at the joints, so best material to tile onto is a waterproof backing board that doesn't mind being long term wet.

This stuff is excellent:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VARME-INSULATION-TILE-BACKER-BOARD-1200x600MM-/181328795329?pt=UK_Flooring&var=&hash=item2a3809d6c1

Once you have a waterproof backing board, penetration through the grout doesn't matter provided you've used waterproof adhesive to stick the tiles on.

Either that or use formica or one of the shower panelling products instead of tiles.

MtB

Staarek · February 19, 2014

You might want to tank it before you put tiles on your walls. There is a rubbery like substance called Mapegum. Apply it along with tape on your corners, wall connections etc. Check ebay for the product.

blackrose · February 19, 2014

Or don't bother with tiles at all. I have wall panels in my shower. It looks fine and keeps the water where it should be.

http://www.ipsluk.co.uk/designer_panels/wall-panels/

I have tiles everywhere else in the bathroom for that "real tile feeling" but just not in the shower.

Edited February 19, 2014 by blackrose

bigste · February 19, 2014

Panels are the way2go

TandC · February 20, 2014

We suffered the same issue and it is a nightmare when you spend all the time and effort replacing only for it to go wrong again in just a year or so.

I used high-quality panels - you can buy the cheaper sort which slot together, with about 200mm width each panel, and while the clip-together tongue and groove joint is supposed to be watertight, I decided that the most effective way was to reduce to the very minimum the number of joints. So the expensive sheets are 2m x 1m, thick and robust so do not flex which is critical to get a good seal, and mean that the only joints are at the corners, where you use plastic trims and silicone. Doing them in full panels does require you to actually have the room to maneuvere them into position though.

There is also a special strip product called Sealux that the panels sit on and is then sealed to the shower tray - http://www.sealux.com/about_sealuxseals.html - its just a plastic molding with pre-applied 'masking tape' to help clean silicone beads - you fill the molding with a bed of sealant, 'glue' it down to the showertray, then apply the panels that sit in the molding on more silicone, then finish off with final beads as you would expect. Look on YouTube and there are lots of instructional videos.

It's really important to prevent any flexing of the panels otherwise the seals can move and then you are scuppered.

The most critical thing is to use the very best quality sealant - i've used DowCorning, the one with the maximum flex within it. It has a good mold inhibitor/fungicide. defo dont be tempted to use ScrewFix own or wotnot - you'll be pulling it out in a year. There are probably other industrial grade ones out there - but I know i've had good results with DC, as have others.

What else? I spent ages using ethonol and clean kitchen roll to absolutely clean every surface before applying sealant to get the best fix.

And last - being really disciplined about ventilation where possible - installing extraction, keeping the door open to allow drying air, etc. Invest in and use every time one of those squeeges to take off excess moisture, and I'm even anal enough to use clean toilet paper to dry off the silicone joins at the showertray after all that... of course, not every time, but I only have to think of the amount of pain and hassle it is to strip out the moldy sealant to motivate me to do it!

hope that helps - it may not be the best or only way, but its working for us so far after a lot of leaks and a lot of moldy silicone.

RichLech · February 20, 2014

Many thanks for all the advice. I will definitely be using the large panels rather than tiles.

Just one follow-up question - how do you fix the panels to the ply or MDF?

blackrose · February 20, 2014

Many thanks for all the advice. I will definitely be using the large panels rather than tiles.

Just one follow-up question - how do you fix the panels to the ply or MDF?

I used a B&Q product that was recommended by the panel manufacturer. I can't remember the name now "Grip & Seal" or something like that. It was a cross between adhesive and silicone.

If I were you I'd follow the wall panel manufacturer's recommendations on which adhesive/sealant to use.

sueb · February 20, 2014

We used neken tiles. They are plastic with a polystyrene backing. No condensation or cracking easy to put up and still going strong 20 odd years later

Barry · February 20, 2014

I used a B&Q product that was recommended by the panel manufacturer. I can't remember the name now "Grip & Seal" or something like that. It was a cross between adhesive and silicone.

If I were you I'd follow the wall panel manufacturer's recommendations on which adhesive/sealant to use.

Was it the same as the stuff in the link in my post 2

RubyTuesday · February 20, 2014

What about using the chalking filler/adhesive from Sikaflex in place of grout and their adhesive on the tiles to the MDF substrate?

Staarek · February 21, 2014

What about using the chalking filler/adhesive from Sikaflex in place of grout and their adhesive on the tiles to the MDF substrate?

Tank the MDF first, (plywood wood be better though). If you tank it properly it will be 100% waterproof. Not easy & cheap to do but possible. After that use good quality tile adhesive (again not cheap) mixed with latex & PVA. I've got tiles on my boat, it's been over 2 years now & everything is in its place, not cracking & dry. I don't have shower tray too, wetroom instead. I wouldn't personally use silicone. If you have to, good alternative to Sikaflex is Polyurethane PU40 Sealant by everbuild. Much cheaper too. I used it in may applications, one of the better ones i found so far.

b0atman · February 21, 2014

go to a plastics stockist who will cut sheets to your dimensions they should do a range of colours.

Ten · February 24, 2014

Nothing wrong with tiles on boats as long as the area is tanked before the actual tiles are fitted. This is a step that needs doing in any tiling job (land household, boat, etc), specially in floors of toilets.

Edited February 24, 2014 by Ten

pquinn · February 24, 2014

what does ''tanked'' mean ?

Ten · February 24, 2014

what does ''tanked'' mean ?

Tanking is a waterproofing treatment that tilers do before putting the actual adhesive + tiles over most surfaces. My tiler stressed how this is crucial on boats.

Machpoint005 · February 24, 2014

Ie make the bathroom into a 'tank' so that if you poured a few gallons of water onto the floor it wouldn't go anywhere. I inadvertently discovered last year that mine already is tanked!

Ten · February 24, 2014

Ie make the bathroom into a 'tank' so that if you poured a few gallons of water onto the floor it wouldn't go anywhere. I inadvertently discovered last year that mine already is tanked!

That's right, the tanking won't let the water go beyond it.

Machpoint005 · February 24, 2014

..because it's a tank!

(How much longer can this go on?)

Ten · February 24, 2014

..because it's a tank!

(How much longer can this go on?)

Hehe You are not helping either! :-)

Barry · February 24, 2014

Well yes but.......how?

blackrose · February 24, 2014

Was it the same as the stuff in the link in my post 2

Could be - I honestly can't remember.

RichLech · April 6, 2014

Many thanks for all the advice about waterproofing my shower, especially Blackrose who gave me the link to IPSL. I have used their plastic sheets and trim and found it a brilliant product to work with. They are also most helpful if you have occasion to call them for advice.

The panels are far better quality than those available from the likes of B&Q or Wickes and you can talk to some-one who knows the product.

Highly recommended.

http://www.ipsluk.co.uk/designer_panels/wall-panels/

**DHutch** · April 6, 2014

On a house I would do cement board and tiles, on a boat, wall panels. Or as per our boat at the moment, vinyl flooring.

Daniel

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