sealing up stove to increasing adaptor?? do i need fire rope?

[squarelips]

Hi you lot,

 

I have yet another question about my stove. im almost there. I have everything installed but the increasing adaptor is just sitting in the stove. How do i seal this up. the gap is really small and i bought some fire rope at 6mm thinking i could squeeze it in but it wont fit. Can i just fill it with heat proof silicone? then fire cement round the outside????? or shouldi wait and get smaller gage fire rope?

 

What would yea think/recomend?

 

Thanks for all your help. this forum has been incredible for helping me learn how to install my stove safely.

hope you are all staying warm out there x

 

[bizzard]

Hi you lot,

 

I have yet another question about my stove. im almost there. I have everything installed but the increasing adaptor is just sitting in the stove. How do i seal this up. the gap is really small and i bought some fire rope at 6mm thinking i could squeeze it in but it wont fit. Can i just fill it with heat proof silicone? then fire cement round the outside????? or shouldi wait and get smaller gage fire rope?

 

What would yea think/recomend?

 

Thanks for all your help. this forum has been incredible for helping me learn how to install my stove safely.

hope you are all staying warm out there x

 

You can usually pick fire rope to pieces to make thinner strands.

[dmr]

I think most people just use high temp silicone for everything now, its better than fire cement as it lasts much longer; fire cement cracks easily and quickly.

 

If its right on top of the Stove then you might need the extra high temperature stuff. A cheap eBay infra red thermometer is great for understanding what the temperature is on various parts of the stove. You can even shine them out of the window on a cold day before deciding how many layers to put on (or whether just to stay in bed).

 

If it was my boat I would get some thinner stove rope and then put high temp silicon in on top of that, sort of belt and braces.

 

...............Dave

[system 4-50]

I pulled the core out of the middle of the rope to get a smaller rope. I stuffed the rope in with a screwdriver and a hammer and filled the remaining groove with fire cement. I also sat the flue on a ring of rope instead of a having a metal to metal contact.

Edited January 27, 2017 by system 4-50

[bizzard]

If your just using HT silicone, do it in stages. Run a bead around and poke it down and around with a stick which fits the slot. Let that layer cure and repeat until the slot is full with no trapped air. If you just bung one heavy bead on it will probably bubble up and break away when any heated trapped air expands.

[Ex Brummie]

I pulled the core out of the middle of the rope to get a smaller rope. I stuffed the rope in with a screwdriver and a hammer and filled the remaining groove with fire cement. I also sat the flue on a ring of rope instead of a having a metal to metal contact.

Sitting on a ring of rope is essential to allow for expansion and contraction. It also helps to eliminate any vibration between flu and stove. You also need rope or similar to eliminate any direct metal to metal contact between the stove pipe and the collar.

[Dave Payne]

My rope took.some getting in, as above I used a small screwdriver to get it right down, kept winding it round the pipe and then push down, reckon I wrapped about 5 times, got it all the way down and then filled with cement, which cracked after a couple of days so will scrape out in the spring and replace with silicon.

[squarelips]

thanks guys! ill pick the rope apart i think and push it in. really good advice on putting the silicone in in layers! thanks for all your help! x

[MtB]

Most high temp silicone is only good for 300C. Stove tops get far hotter than that!

Anything in a tube that claims to be good for more than 300C tends not to be silicone, if you read it carefully.

[Ex Brummie]

F J C flue jointing compound, by Purimachos is a non setting flexible flue sealer and is available from heating merchants. Fire cement will crack with vibration and is degraded with damp such as condensation. A boat that is left for a week or two will get damp and this will be absorbed by fire cement. An occasional dressing of a joint is to be expected. FJC will last much longer.

[MtB]

F J C flue jointing compound, by Purimachos is a non setting flexible flue sealer and is available from heating merchants. Fire cement will crack with vibration and is degraded with damp such as condensation. A boat that is left for a week or two will get damp and this will be absorbed by fire cement. An occasional dressing of a joint is to be expected. FJC will last much longer.

 

 

My memory of that stuff is it is no different from ordinary fire cement despite the claims.

 

A brief google suggests Purimachos doesn't even have a website to check their claims, and what it's made of.

[Ex Brummie]

FJC is like body filler, except it does not completely harden. It can be rolled out into thin strips and pushed into small gaps. I use it to seal oil boiler flues at the joints, but still use fire cement at the boiler collar. At that point the temperature rarely exceeds 300c . I've used FJC on my flue, but this is on a Bubble, and does not reach the extremes some solid fuel stoves do, and also it isa consistent temperature.