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Refleks heater installation


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Hello,

 

After my recent thread I have purchased a refleks heater and need to think about installing a diesel line to my stove location.

 

I currently have a splitter coming out of my diesel tank 1 line going to the engine and 1 going to my eberspacher.

 

Does anybody have any ideas with regards to creating a 3rd feed for the Refleks? If I use a T piece on either the engine or eberspacher line will I still be able to run both at the same time? If not what are my options?

 

Thanks

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My boat has a seperate tank for the Kabola Old Dutch. It is mounted in the port well deck locker, and feeds the stove via gravity.

 

It is fillable directly, or via a transfer pump from the main diesel tank, thus future proofing again a possible ban on propulsion fuel for heating use for unless you pay the full amount of tax.

 

Shouldn't cost too much to have a dedicated tank fabricated, and may mean less disruption to the inside of the boat, especially if the fuel supply pipework is shorter.

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I'm sure someone more knowledgable will be along in a bit but some thoughts :-

 

pipe sizes versus flow rates - If the outlet in the tank is only 1/4 pipe then that may

limit available flow

 

Pumps - both the engine and the eber (AIUI) will have suction pumps to ensure that they are

well supplied with fuel, whereas the refleks will need gravity, I could envisage the refleks

being starved if either of the other pumps kicks in.

 

If the refleks is at the opposite end of the boat it may need extra "head" (or much larger pipe) to

ensure adequate supply.

 

As cuthound suggests you may be better off with a separate supply tank for the refleks, mounted

higher up to ensure a good flow.

 

springy

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On our motor the Refleks feed is tee-ed off from the day tank; on the butty I have a dedicated tank. Both are fed with 8mm pipe. No problems.

The day tank is about 25' from the stove; the dedicated tank is on an adjacent outside bulkhead.

 

NB the tank needs to be a minimum of 8" above the regulator.

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Thanks for the replies yes the tank deffo is 200mm above the regulator I also saw this when reading the manuals online.

 

the tank on the starboard side does have an outlet coming out of the bottom, I know usually for an engine this couldn't be used because of the build up however would it matter so much on a drip fed unit such as the refleks? Pictured below:

 

24wulg4.jpg

Edited by Mitchellmoxo
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Separate tank sounds like good advice but it wants to be quite big with a pump because filling a diesel tank with a can in middle of winter is not fun!!

that looks like a drain and would not be the best place to draw from although the Reflex might handle a bit of emulsion. Remember that the BOTTOM of the tank has to be above the Refleks.

Not sure but I think the 8 inches would be head of fuel not base of tank.

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The bottom of my fuel tank is more than 8 inches above the regulator so anything above that will be more than. I already have 2 fuel tanks and don't really have the space to fit a third not if I'm going to make it big enough to make it worth having.

 

Does anybody know how I could go about adding an outlet to the side of this tank? Other than cutting a hole in the top so I can get a nut and spanner on the inside?

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Not really. Eight inches is the minimum height of fuel level above the regulator.

Yes. It's actually very useful to allow the heating to run out of fuel before the tank is empty if you are running it off the same tank as your engine :)

 

So you can still move the boat in order to acquire more diesel .

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I have a tank for my Dickinson mounted in the engine room, I originally used an electric transfer pump from the main tank, The day tank has its own vent line and a half inch overflow/return to the main tank. I changed it and took the bleed line (not the right name) from the top of the engine filter/injectors to the top of the day tank to keep it topped up. The tank will run the Dickinson for several days once its full.

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My boat has a seperate tank for the Kabola Old Dutch. It is mounted in the port well deck locker, and feeds the stove via gravity.

 

It is fillable directly, or via a transfer pump from the main diesel tank, thus future proofing again a possible ban on propulsion fuel for heating use for unless you pay the full amount of tax.

 

Shouldn't cost too much to have a dedicated tank fabricated, and may mean less disruption to the inside of the boat, especially if the fuel supply pipework is shorter.

I did exactly this, I got Goodwin Plastics to make a bespoke tank, they fit baffles and will make them with whatever pipe fittings you want. There is a minimum drop for the fuel ie a minimum head. I also fitted an inline filter just in case of crap in the fuel.

Goodwins were very reasonable on price and very helpful.

Phil

Edited by Phil Ambrose
  • Greenie 1
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After looking at the Essex flange and how they did it I have now realised I can thread a wire from a small opening in the top of the tank to the new cut opening and slide a washer and the nut along the wire to fit something like this to my existing tank. At £2 something think that will be cheaper than getting and fitting a new tank!

 

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Compression-Flang-Tank-Connector-15mm/p/420230?source=123_74&tmcampid=104&tmad=c&tmplaceref=PPC_ggl_0006635&tmcustom=mkwid%7CW5fPyZGt_dc%7Cpcrid%7C7531858372%7Cmatch%7C%7Cplid%7C&gclid=CICt9O_lrrkCFebJtAodbx0AOw

 

Thanks guys !

Does anybody know what kind of washer I can use on the back of this that would be compatible with diesel?

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