Towing a tender

[Claude]

Hi, I have a new (second-hand) fibreglass tender which I'd like to be able to bring with me when I move my boat (widebeam). However, I don't have much knowledge of how to do it. For the inexperienced I imagine towing could present all sorts of problems... For example, apart from using a floating tow rope how does one prevent the rope being sucked into the prop every time you go into reverse? When you just want to concentrate on safe boat handling, towing something must make it a lot more difficult.

 

The dinghy came with a trailer so that's another option, but I'd need to have a towing hitch put onto my car as it doesn't have one, and then there's the hassle of getting it out and back into the water - assuming there is a convenient slipway.

 

The ultimate solution I think has to be a pair of these davits.

http://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-stainless-steel-davits.html?gclid=CMedoYXu5csCFRATGwodTT4OkQ#.VvpwFdIrKt8

 

The davits are removable which is good, but would the pulleys be adequate to lift a dinghy out of the water without winches? The dinghy is about 9ft x 4ft Dory style and I think it probably weighs about 80-100kg with the internal deckboards. The dinghy's gunwales are pretty solid as they have long wooden blocks underneath, so I'd fit a couple of lifting eyes into the gunwale on one side and the dinghy would be held vertically on its side. Is that the best way to do it? Hopefully the gunwale wouldn't break under the weight!

 

Claude

Edited March 29, 2016 by Claude

[OldGoat]

Towing a dinghy is straightforward.

We've tried everything,

long line,

alongside,

 

We find the most satisfactory solution - especially when locking, is to keep the dinghy close with a cross-your-heart-bra technique to two dollies on the stern.

The flow from the prop keeps the dinghy reasonably straight and the diagonal lashing corrects any wandering.

 

The sort of davits you show are not very suitable for a steel boat as you'll need a fixing below deck as well as through it. They're somewhat flimsy...

[Claude]

Towing a dinghy is straightforward.

We've tried everything,

long line,

alongside,

 

We find the most satisfactory solution - especially when locking, is to keep the dinghy close with a cross-your-heart-bra technique to two dollies on the stern.

The flow from the prop keeps the dinghy reasonably straight and the diagonal lashing corrects any wandering.

 

The sort of davits you show are not very suitable for a steel boat as you'll need a fixing below deck as well as through it. They're somewhat flimsy...

 

Thanks. So how do you stop the tow ropes being sucked into the prop when you reverse? Are they really that short that it's not possible? The bow of the dinghy must only be a foot or two from your stern?

 

The fittings and backing plates come with the davits. Bolts go through the deck, backing plate underneath and then the nuts. If they aren't suitable for a steel deck one wonders what sort of deck material they would be suitable for? Also "flimsy" is a relative term. If they can lift 125kg between them as stated in the specs, then that should be fine for the job that I need them to do.

 

But thanks for the towing advice - that's very useful.

Edited March 29, 2016 by Claude

[twbm]

What OldGoat says describes 'cross straps' used to tow an empty butty. It'll follow you along nicely. You might have to arrange cleats or something to get an effective diagonal pull off the bow of the tender.

 

Edited to add: in response to the above: Yes, in fact just touching the rear button fender sitting over the rudder.

 

Here's a picture of the real thing:

 

 

http://www.narrowboattrust.org.uk/pics/2011_Gallery/Alvecoteto%20Ricky/pages/Hillmorton.htm

 

 

.. and if you click the back button on the NBT site you'll see how close the boats are.

Edited March 29, 2016 by twbm

[Grebe]

Been there - done it.

 

Like OldGoat says, short lines, cross-your-heart style with stem of tender almost touching the stern.

[Claude]

Right - thanks for that. Probably no need for the davits then.

 

Do any of you find that having the tender behind you poses any problems in locks or when trying to manoeuvre in tight spaces? I guess you've just got to allow for it and remember that you have to go forward into marina moorings!

I guess once you get used to it, the only real drawback of towing with crossed ropes is that it effectively makes the boat longer and so restricts turning.

[bizzard]

If you have a tender behind it might be painful for you to sit down.

[Claude]

If you have a tender behind it might be painful for you to sit down.

 

Ah, that's the other disadvantage!

[Loafer]

If you need to reverse, just move the tender first. We were aways doing that with our yacht, where a tender is almost essential.

[Claude]

If you need to reverse, just move the tender first. We were aways doing that with our yacht, where a tender is almost essential.

 

I had thought of that but it's not so easy for me as I'm on my own. If I want to move the tender in order to reverse I've got to leave the tiller.

 

I suppose I could just have loops over the cleats on my deck to make untying faster and then just bring the dinghy alongside and tie it on as quickly as possible?

Edited March 29, 2016 by Claude

[twbm]

PS - If you search 'cross straps' in Google images you won't see any boats.

 

Well, not in the first twenty pages of results, so far.

Edited March 29, 2016 by twbm

[OldGoat]

Going astern can be a pain, so as Loafer says, I tend to unhitch the dinghy and take it alongside if reversing any distance. For a short distance and if able to reverse gently, I have two lines taken to the stern as well and that give a modicum of control.

 

We're on the Thames so invariably have to share a lock with some expensive bits of composite - so we have to be able to manoeuvre.

 

My comments about the yacht davits are based on the number of bent ones I've seen. Usually their tenders are inflatables and with no more than a 20HP on the back. Even so they do seem to struggle sometimes.

[Loafer]

PS - If you search 'cross straps' in Google images you won't see any boats.

 

Well, not in the first twenty pages of results, so far.

 

If your reversing needs are simply for stopping the boat or avoiding a collision, a dinghy towed by short cross-straps won't be a problem because it will be touching you anyway. If it's for marina manoeuvring, then tow it from a centreline so that it is still very close behind you. Then when you reverse, you will leave it 'behind' as you go backwards and it'll then follow you from the bow area.

[harve90]

Would a couple of straight bars used in crossover fashion work?

Edited March 29, 2016 by harve90

[Claude]

My comments about the yacht davits are based on the number of bent ones I've seen. Usually their tenders are inflatables and with no more than a 20HP on the back. Even so they do seem to struggle sometimes.

 

Er davits are meant to be bent! (just kidding). But seriously, I would have thought that the weakest part of those davits would be the pulley blocks, not the poles. So if a dinghy can be hauled up and is within the loading specs the poles wouldn't bend - but I might be wrong.

 

My outboard would be taken off the dinghy first and stored inside. I certainly wouldn't add to the load by trying to haul it up with the dinghy. A 20hp outboard might weight something like 50kg. Mine is only 5hp but I still wouldn't want it hanging there.

 

If your reversing needs are simply for stopping the boat or avoiding a collision, a dinghy towed by short cross-straps won't be a problem because it will be touching you anyway. If it's for marina manoeuvring, then tow it from a centreline so that it is still very close behind you. Then when you reverse, you will leave it 'behind' as you go backwards and it'll then follow you from the bow area.

 

Ok, thanks.

Would a couple of straight bars used in crossover fashion work?

 

Yes, I thought about that too - but I guess if the cross ropes are kept very short then rigid poles wouldn't really offer any advantages?

Edited March 29, 2016 by Claude

[Robbo]

I have a tender that I tow on a single short rope of around 3-4meters. If I need to reverse you just move the tender to the side of the boat manually. I'm single handed as well so have to get out of the wheelhouse to move, but it's no issue.

 

However the issues I've found is.. Locks, they leak and when going down they leak in to your tender, so I tend to put the boat on the roof now if going through a lot of locks. I thought about davits, and I may still go for this option.

[Claude]

I have a tender that I tow on a single short rope of around 3-4meters. If I need to reverse you just move the tender to the side of the boat manually. I'm single handed as well so have to get out of the wheelhouse to move, but it's no issue.

 

However the issues I've found is.. Locks, they leak and when going down they leak in to your tender, so I tend to put the boat on the roof now if going through a lot of locks. I thought about davits, and I may still go for this option.

 

You have a wheel. Letting go of my tiller means the boat goes out of control after a very short time, so it probably would be an issue for me. Perhaps tiller strings is the answer?

 

Without davits my dinghy would take at least 3 people to lift out of the water and put it on the roof.

Edited March 30, 2016 by Claude

[bizzard]

How to make your tender behind follow you implicitly. Lash a long stick at an angle to the tow boats tiller at one end (just below the handle) and further along the stick to the swans neck. The stick now if moved back and forth from the other end of it should operate the rudder, like another tiller arm sticking out the back. Lash the tender up to the boats buffer on cross straps and then lash the angled down outward end of the stick to a point at the centre of the stern end of the tender like a ring bolt on the transom or thwart. Now, by moving the the tow boats tiller you will notice that the tender moves across with it, ie tiller over to port for turning to starboard and the tender also moves over to starboard, and the same if turning to port, so following and scribing the same arc as the tow boat. Your tender cannot jack-knife on you either.

Howzat.

Edited March 30, 2016 by bizzard

[Robbo]

 

You have a wheel. Letting go of my tiller means the boat goes out of control after a very short time, so it probably would be an issue for me. Perhaps tiller strings is the answer?

 

Without davits my dinghy would take at least 3 people to lift out of the water and put it on the roof.

You tend to be stopped before reversing, so letting go of the tiller is no issue. It's the locks (mainly going down) I found more of an issue, even tho I have more than 10ft to play with (my boat is 50ft, tender is 8). It takes around 3 people to lift mine as well, but I can manage on my own using old carpet to not scratch the boat. (Not ideal tho still , davits would be be better all round) Edited March 30, 2016 by Robbo

[Claude]

You tend to be stopped before reversing, so letting go of the tiller is no issue. It's the locks (mainly going down) I found more of an issue, even tho I have more than 10ft to play with (my boat is 50ft, tender is 8). It takes around 3 people to lift mine as well, but I can manage on my own using old carpet to not scratch the boat. (Not ideal tho still , davits would be be better all round)

 

I do have a fair amount of boating experience despite being new to this forum. You're never really "stopped" on a river in my experience (I'm on rivers rather than canals). On your boat I fully accept what you say that it's not an issue for you, so you'll really have to take it from me that on my boat letting go of the tiller for more than about 15 seconds is an issue even if you're "stopped" in neutral. The tiller soon swings one way of the other and the wind or current turns the boat out of line. I'm afraid it's just a characteristic of my boat. I've had the boat for over a decade and have done a fair amount of cruising so I do know what I'm talking about here. I sometimes leave the tiller to do something (jump up onto the roof to get a centre rope that I'd forgotten to bring back to the helm for example), but you have to be quick.

 

Likewise, I know my own dinghy. It's very heavy and there's no way that you, me or any other person (besides world's strongest man competitors) could drag it up onto the roof of a boat on their own. I know because I've dragged it up the bank with another person several times before and we barely manage.

 

I know that you're just trying to help and I do appreciate that, but you must also accept that I know my own equipment and it's not the same as yours.

Edited March 30, 2016 by Claude

[Robbo]

 

I do have a fair amount of boating experience despite being new to this forum. You're never really "stopped" on a river in my experience (I'm on rivers rather than canals). On your boat I fully accept what you say that it's not an issue for you, so you'll really have to take it from me that on my boat letting go of the tiller for more than about 15 seconds is an issue even if you're "stopped" in neutral. The tiller soon swings one way of the other and the wind or current turns the boat out of line. I'm afraid it's just a characteristic of my boat. I've had the boat for over a decade and have done a fair amount of cruising so I do know what I'm talking about here. I sometimes leave the tiller to do something (jump up onto the roof to get a centre rope that I'd forgotten to bring back to the helm for example), but you have to be quick.

 

Likewise, I know my own dinghy. It's very heavy and there's no way that you, me or any other person (besides world's strongest man competitors) could drag it up onto the roof of a boat on their own. I know because I've dragged it up the bank with another person several times before and we barely manage.

 

I know that you're just trying to help and I do appreciate that, but you must also accept that I know my own equipment and it's not the same as yours.

The rivers I'm on I don't need to reverse as they are wide enough for me to turn in. My other bost has a tiller and I can leave the tiller (although it doesn't steer straight when left). If you can't handle the tender on your own it may weigh more than those davits can handle, so you may need to find some beefer ones. I recon mine is around 80kg

[Claude]

The rivers I'm on I don't need to reverse as they are wide enough for me to turn in.

 

Unfortunately I don't always have that luxury.

 

My other bost has a tiller and I can leave the tiller (although it doesn't steer straight when left).

 

Yes, I completely believe you when you say that on your boat you can leave the tiller. However, I'm not sure what that's got to do with my boat and why you won't believe me when I say that my boat behaves differently? (No two boats behave the same you know.) I can't leave the tiller for very long on my boat as I already explained. I know lots of narrowboat owners who can leave the tiller for much longer than me and I've also done it on friend's boats. But It doesn't work on mine - I've tried it many times. If you refuse to believe me then I'm afraid there's not really much point continuing this conversation.

 

If you can't handle the tender on your own it may weigh more than those davits can handle, so you may need to find some beefer ones. I recon mine is around 80kg

 

I can certainly handle the tender on my own, but I can't lift it out of the water on my own. I'm not sure exactly how much it weighs but I don't think it's more than 125kg which is the spec of those davits. I'd actually decided not to by the davits for now and just tow the dinghy, but if I do ever buy davits in future I'll have to somehow estimate the weight of the dinghy first.

Edited March 31, 2016 by Claude

[spadefoot]

Just a quick thought on those davits. I don't know your boat's construction, but if I were to bolt them through my back deck, I'd have big holes in the top of my diesel tank.

[Robbo]

 

Unfortunately I don't always have that luxury.

 

 

Yes, I completely believe you when you say that on your boat you can leave the tiller. However, I'm not sure what that's got to do with my boat and why you won't believe me when I say that my boat behaves differently? (No two boats behave the same you know.) I can't leave the tiller for very long on my boat as I already explained. I know lots of narrowboat owners who can leave the tiller for much longer than me and I've also done it on friend's boats. But It doesn't work on mine - I've tried it many times. If you refuse to believe me then I'm afraid there's not really much point continuing this conversation.

 

 

I can certainly handle the tender on my own, but I can't lift it out of the water on my own. I'm not sure exactly how much it weighs but I don't think it's more than 125kg which is the spec of those davits. I'd actually decided not to by the davits for now and just tow the dinghy, but if I do ever buy davits in future I'll have to somehow estimate the weight of the dinghy first.

 

If you have the tender on a long line, when turning the tender will tend to come to the side of the boat and it tends to keep out of the way. I've not had issues with the rope going into the prop. I use this method when turning the boat around when I have to reverse. If your near to where the tender is attached to the main boat (I'm not), it may be handy if you can easily adjust the rope length. In addition, if the ropes are short it tends the tender tends to want to go to one side due to the prop wash.

 

I use old carpet layed on the banking to get my tender out of the water so not to scrap the bottom of the tender. It works if the bank is not to high (if more than a couple of feet I would struggle).

Edited March 31, 2016 by Robbo

[Claude]

Just a quick thought on those davits. I don't know your boat's construction, but if I were to bolt them through my back deck, I'd have big holes in the top of my diesel tank.

 

My diesel tank doesn't extend the full width of the deck.