carbon monoxide alarm

[Phil Ambrose]

My new one has replaceable batteries

Mine too.

Phil

[blackrose]

My new one has replaceable batteries

So do both of mine.

 

 

Good point. I'm about to replace ours to those wot have a %CO display.

I think most have a ppm display rather than %.

 

I'm surprised that a blocked grate can cause CO to leak out a stove. My grate is blocked most of the time. I would be looking for other causes such as leaks in the stove or flue.

Edited January 11, 2016 by blackrose

[GoodGurl]

My new one has replaceable batteries

so do my 2.

[Rob@BSSOffice]

What is it that makes a CO detector suitable for boats? Is there a different type of 'marine' carbon monoxide?

 

It's not the CO that is different from houses. It is the environment - on a boat its more humid, with wider temperature fluctuations, different chemicals and salinity in the air, vibrations (engine) and jolts (other boats hitting yours). So the products on here http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/264586/CoGDEM-CO-alarms-List-Feb-2015.pdf have been through the rigours of BSi/LPCB approved batch testing and approvals to standards that take account of the marine environment.

 

HOWEVER if someone has an alarm, but not " -2" don't panic.... if anyone already has an 'in date' Kitemarked alarm and it was tested to BS EN 50291, or BS EN 50291-1, the CoGDEM advice is to keep that alarm, test it routinely and when it needs replacing, choose a unit showing it was tested to BS EN 50291-2 and suitable for boat use.

 

Hope that helps

[Loafer]

 

It's not the CO that is different from houses. It is the environment - on a boat its more humid, with wider temperature fluctuations, different chemicals and salinity in the air, vibrations (engine) and jolts (other boats hitting yours). So the products on here http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/264586/CoGDEM-CO-alarms-List-Feb-2015.pdf have been through the rigours of BSi/LPCB approved batch testing and approvals to standards that take account of the marine environment.

 

HOWEVER if someone has an alarm, but not " -2" don't panic.... if anyone already has an 'in date' Kitemarked alarm and it was tested to BS EN 50291, or BS EN 50291-1, the CoGDEM advice is to keep that alarm, test it routinely and when it needs replacing, choose a unit showing it was tested to BS EN 50291-2 and suitable for boat use.

 

Hope that helps

 

Yes it does. No panic then. Thanks Rob!

[Guest]

 

Yes it does. No panic then. Thanks Rob!

 

We swapped the one in the house which was a -2 for the one on the boat that wasn't.

[rubblequeen]

Can I just check but can you hard wire the CO and smoke detectors to a 12v system with battery back up?

[dogless]

 

I'm surprised that a blocked grate can cause CO to leak out a stove. My grate is blocked most of the time. I would be looking for other causes such as leaks in the stove or flue.

That was the point...I was surprised too.

I maybe described things poorly.

Ash had built up so as to restrict the flow of air around the metal baffle plate in the roof of the stove, being the route the fumes are drawn. Hope that makes it clearer. I suggest regularly checking this area and clearing any ash or debris before putting fuel on.

I previously believed that blocking the flu itself would be the only way to cause a problem.

Dangerous stuff innit

Rog

[Loafer]

That was the point...I was surprised too.

I maybe described things poorly.

Ash had built up so as to restrict the flow of air around the metal baffle plate in the roof of the stove, being the route the fumes are drawn. Hope that makes it clearer. I suggest regularly checking this area and clearing any ash or debris before putting fuel on.

I previously believed that blocking the flu itself would be the only way to cause a problem.

Dangerous stuff innit

Rog

 

Do you mean soot and detritus from the chimney, falling on top of the baffle plate? Saying 'ash' made me think of your ash can.

[dogless]

Yes ash. I presume building up and spilling onto the top of the fire bricks.

The flu was clean.

I was surprised how little ash in the wrong place could turn a perfectly working stove into a problem.

Clearly I'm rubbish at descriptions.

Rog

[blackrose]

That was the point...I was surprised too.

I maybe described things poorly.

Ash had built up so as to restrict the flow of air around the metal baffle plate in the roof of the stove, being the route the fumes are drawn. Hope that makes it clearer. I suggest regularly checking this area and clearing any ash or debris before putting fuel on.

I previously believed that blocking the flu itself would be the only way to cause a problem.

Dangerous stuff innit

Rog

I see. If the area around/above the baffle plate was blocked then I'm not surprised at all. That's essentially the same as a blocked flue.

Edited January 13, 2016 by blackrose

[RufusR]

 

It's not the CO that is different from houses. It is the environment - on a boat its more humid, with wider temperature fluctuations, different chemicals and salinity in the air, vibrations (engine) and jolts (other boats hitting yours). So the products on here http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/264586/CoGDEM-CO-alarms-List-Feb-2015.pdf have been through the rigours of BSi/LPCB approved batch testing and approvals to standards that take account of the marine environment.

 

HOWEVER if someone has an alarm, but not " -2" don't panic.... if anyone already has an 'in date' Kitemarked alarm and it was tested to BS EN 50291, or BS EN 50291-1, the CoGDEM advice is to keep that alarm, test it routinely and when it needs replacing, choose a unit showing it was tested to BS EN 50291-2 and suitable for boat use.

 

Hope that helps

 

 

this is what we have , is this any good ? I was thinking about getting another one as they combine both functions but I notice it is no more expensive than most standalone Co alarms so is it inferior as a result ? just want to

 

check before adding to my alarmshttp://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1442/product/e124.aspx

 

 

Edited to add said link .. DOH

Edited January 13, 2016 by RufusR

[Chewbacka]

 

 

this is what we have , is this any good ? I was thinking about getting another one as they combine both functions but I notice it is no more expensive than most standalone Co alarms so is it inferior as a result ? just want to

 

check before adding to my alarmshttp://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1442/product/e124.aspx

 

 

Edited to add said link .. DOH

I have always considered Kidde as an ok brand.

 

I prefer separate units as I place the smoke alarms on the roof as smoke goes up and the CO alarms on the walls to be more at a breathing level. I have 3 CO detectors in a 56ft boat, so that is just me being a bit 'over cautious' with CO.

[RufusR]

I have always considered Kidde as an ok brand.

 

I prefer separate units as I place the smoke alarms on the roof as smoke goes up and the CO alarms on the walls to be more at a breathing level. I have 3 CO detectors in a 56ft boat, so that is just me being a bit 'over cautious' with CO.

 

thanks Chewbacka we only have the one at the moment ( boat had none when we bought it and its not an old boat , shouldnt these things be compulsory and part of the BSS ? ) I think I will get another stand alone CO and smoke alarm .. belt and braces and all that .. Where have you put yours ? I have the current one in the about the only location outside the bedroom that meets the requirements not to be a certain distance from stove , cooker or bathroom .. new ones will put in bedroom me thinks

[RufusR]

ok can someone explain how this works then please .. its a combined gas detector for propane etc AND co but as it has an integral sensor how can it properly detect both as the former will sink to bilges and be at best at floor level and the latter will be higher up as its lighter .. surely this is a very bad compromise and is only any good detecting one or the other http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1440/product/50671.aspx

 

 

 

the one ( more expensive ) below it has 2 external sensors which would work but it needs wiring into the 12v system which is a bit of a ballache as we dont have any 12 v sockets so would have to be hardwired ( can be done )

 

does anyone bother about propane detectors or am I being paranoild and should just stick to CO and Smoke

[cuthound]

ok can someone explain how this works then please .. its a combined gas detector for propane etc AND co but as it has an integral sensor how can it properly detect both as the former will sink to bilges and be at best at floor level and the latter will be higher up as its lighter .. surely this is a very bad compromise and is only any good detecting one or the other http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1440/product/50671.aspx

 

 

 

the one ( more expensive ) below it has 2 external sensors which would work but it needs wiring into the 12v system which is a bit of a ballache as we dont have any 12 v sockets so would have to be hardwired ( can be done )

 

does anyone bother about propane detectors or am I being paranoild and should just stick to CO and Smoke

My boat has a "Dualwatch" CO and propane alarm. The propane part has separate sensors, located in the cabin bilge and hardwired to the alarm unit. Perhaps this is the same?

 

Edited for spilling.

Edited January 13, 2016 by cuthound

[RufusR]

My boat has ac"Dualwatch" CO and propane alarm. The propane part has separate sensors, located in the csbin bilge and hardwired to the alarm unit. Perhaps this is the samethr

 

there is a more expensive one underneath that has dual sensors but this one and the one above are integrated in the unit .. bloody useless as far as I can see . Better to spend teh extra £30 odd and get the one that does the job . yours seems eminantly sensible does it need to be hardwired to 12v or is it battery powered / internal cell ?

[cuthound]

there is a more expensive one underneath that has dual sensors but this one and the one above are integrated in the unit .. bloody useless as far as I can see . Better to spend teh extra £30 odd and get the one that does the job . yours seems eminantly sensible does it need to be hardwired to 12v or is it battery powered / internal cell ?

Mine is powered directly from the boats 12 volt supply. However not sure if they still make them. All the adverts I can find for them show them as out of stock.