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Best Chainsaw for cutting logs


buggsy

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Funnily enough a similar thread has come up this week on one of the 4x4 Forums, and the general consensus there has been to go for a bow saw.

 

One point that was raised there, which hasn't been here, is that if using a chain saw in a public place then you need to be Certificated for it's use, and since a towpath is a public place, you could be prosecuted by the HSE if ANY accident took place, even if that accident was to you.

 

We are lucky as one of our members is a Forester.

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  • 10 months later...
Funnily enough a similar thread has come up this week on one of the 4x4 Forums, and the general consensus there has been to go for a bow saw.

I can't believe the negativity of this thread.

 

Surely there are liveaboards using chainsaws? If so, would you like to say how safe you think they are, and why I shouldn't be afraid to buy one, as long as I treat it reverently?

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I can't believe the negativity of this thread.

 

Surely there are liveaboards using chainsaws? If so, would you like to say how safe you think they are, and why I shouldn't be afraid to buy one, as long as I treat it reverently?

Having witnessd an experienced tree surgeon, narrowly miss cutting his leg off with a petrol chain saw (in my garden!), it is my view that they do need to be treated with a great deal of respect.

 

I know that all Local Authority operaters have to have the correct training, so maybe you could attend a course to minimise the risk.

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Chainsaws are excellent devices and are very safe.......in the right hands. Please let me give you an example of how stupid people can be, and why I believe that chainsaws, like Hilti guns, should require an operators licence before you can buy or operate one: I was called to a school a few years ago as they required a quotation for some forthcoming work. On arriving at the woodwork dept., I was aware of a terrible noise emitting from a two stroke engine. We were allowed in to find the woodwork teacher chopping up 9 X 2 redwood with a two stroke chainsaw INDOORS without any ventilation, or breathing equipment. His safety clothing consisted of Clarks shoes, a baggy boiler suit full of tears and holes, and a pair of cheap safety spectacles. He was using the saw at chest height. His assistant, who turned out to be his line manager, was stood next to him, laughing, and wearing a suit. I don't wish to be over dramatic, but from the way he was stood, had that chainsaw kicked back, it would have cut his head in half. It was one of the most serious breaches of any health and safety rules that I have had the misfortune to witness. We left the room. I am sure that nobody on this forum would be so stupid, but it brought home to me how familiarity breeds contempt. Chainsaws are for professionals IMHO.

Edited by Dylan
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Chainsaws are for professionals IMHO.

A woodwork teacher would have attended a local authority course for each piece of equipment he has to use. If he was using a chainsaw then he either attended a course, didn't bother or wasn't offered one. Whichever is the case the teacher was a professional and either he, his head of dept or his head teacher was an incompetent professional.

 

I have attended a training course, have the necessary safety equipment and treat the tool with respect, but I'm not paid to use a chainsaw therefore I'm not a professional.

 

Who is the safest operator?

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As a trained accident investigator for my company and having a life time of practical experiance of power tools i would not advise anyone to buy a petrol chainsaw because the risks will always go with the saw and youre not quick enough or strong enough to use one safely, the associated PPE required is more expensive than the saw and by the time you have everthing in place ie saw lubricant tank topped up petrol and oil mixed and added, full head mask and shield on protective trousers on , protective apron on, gloves on, you can then start to attack the wood. I have a friend who burns wood and he needs to keep his winter stocks up and he uses an electric chain saw, but he has been sawing wood by various means for many years, i have a makita reciprocating saw which is very easy to use and its the safiest weapon i have used so far, we cut trees, and some very hard wood that comes into our yard from India. The problem i find is that i get tired and my wrists get weaker on big jobs and thats when you can have accidents so its knowing when to stop and not to get too greedy.

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Many, many years ago I attended a safety awareness course which included a section on chain saws. The nurse described in gory detail the damage even a minor cut from a chain saw causes. The reason is that the saw removes a section of flesh rather than cutting it, making healing very slow and difficult. Having said that, life is a risk, just use plenty of common sense. I expect there are woodsmen who would be terrified at the prospect of jumping on and off a boat at a lock.

 

Slightly related, I recently (spring) took down a large birch tree, the trunk of which was about 15 - 18 inches in diameter. This was cut into 9 inch slices and I split most of these in half at the time with a felling axe.

 

Last month I decided to split them into logs and the axe just bounced off them. The wood had evidently hardened up as it dried. I eventually did the job with a "log grenade" from Screwfix. This thing was brilliant, and for £6 is well worth it. The wood was remarkably tough, some taking six or seven full swings with a 10lb sledge, but they all gave way eventually when the axe wouldn't touch them.

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Further to my previous post, wasn't there a report last year of a man decapitating his wife (accidently of course) with a chainsaw? Iseem to remeber that it fell on her. Could be wrong. My other worry is the damage an incompetent person may do to others, as in this incident, if indeed it is correct. Which it is:http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/4517527.stm

A woodwork teacher would have attended a local authority course for each piece of equipment he has to use. If he was using a chainsaw then he either attended a course, didn't bother or wasn't offered one. Whichever is the case the teacher was a professional and either he, his head of dept or his head teacher was an incompetent professional.I have attended a training course, have the necessary safety equipment and treat the tool with respect, but I'm not paid to use a chainsaw therefore I'm not a professional.Who is the safest operator?
Ok, I will choose my words more carefully! Read professional as competent, as in properly trained and equipped. Edited by Dylan
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I can't believe the negativity of this thread.

 

Surely there are liveaboards using chainsaws? If so, would you like to say how safe you think they are, and why I shouldn't be afraid to buy one, as long as I treat it reverently?

 

You need to understand how kickback happens and so how to prevent it, as well as have the PPE to save life/limb/face if it does happen.

 

Try a google search on 'chainsaw kickback'

 

cheers,

Pete.

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I have attended a training course, have the necessary safety equipment and treat the tool with respect, but I'm not paid to use a chainsaw therefore I'm not a professional.

Who is the safest operator?

In my view it is not whether you are paid on not to do something, but whether you have received the appropriate training and certification that matters.

 

You would certainly be as safe as any profesional who had completed the same training and certification, and much safer than an uncertificated "professional"

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In answer to the original question if you can afford it Stihl are the best, if money is tight Mcculluogh are OK but as someone who has used a saw almost daily for the last 30 years please listen about PPE. I started in the days when safety gear was a file to keep your chain sharp which is still the best way to stay safe but you must have all the rest of the gear. Kick back is always a big surprise and will get you when you least expect.

 

The other advice I would give is use the right size saw for the job I have 14,18,20,24,30 and 36 inch and do not get one out until I have looked at thework and sized it up. I would suggest the 14 would be fine from your description of want you want to do. I have seen the comments on electric saws I also have one of these to use when noise is a problem they are no more or less safe than a petrol saw please do not think they are safer.

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In answer to the original question if you can afford it Stihl are the best, if money is tight Mcculluogh are OK but as someone who has used a saw almost daily for the last 30 years please listen about PPE. I started in the days when safety gear was a file to keep your chain sharp which is still the best way to stay safe but you must have all the rest of the gear. Kick back is always a big surprise and will get you when you least expect.

 

The other advice I would give is use the right size saw for the job I have 14,18,20,24,30 and 36 inch and do not get one out until I have looked at thework and sized it up. I would suggest the 14 would be fine from your description of want you want to do. I have seen the comments on electric saws I also have one of these to use when noise is a problem they are no more or less safe than a petrol saw please do not think they are safer.

Although your advice is very good, I think it maybe a little late. Look a the date of the original post I,m guessing that he's already bought one.

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for small logs up to 3" diameter I have used my chop saw (mitre saw) with great success, and no obvious safety issues. for general trimming a new lightweight bow saw is brilliant, they are so cheap these days - just throw away when it is no longer razor-sharp.

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