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There is a forth factor. The maximum pressure drop being allowed between the regulator output and the appliance input.

 

The allowable drop depends on the age of the boat IIRC, older boats being allowed a far bigger drop than those built under the RCD.

 

MtB

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Sorry Neil but you have done it again. It is absolutely right to come on here and ask but the lack of information makes, as Mike says, the question unanswerable. Be aware that different gas regulations may apply if you intend to live aboard rather than holiday on the boat. Mike is the chap to give chapter and verse on pipe sizes and then you need to go onto the BSS website to see what else needs to be complied with in the installation like fixing intervals, minimum joints and proximity for fuel pipes and electrical cables and so on.

 

This is just like the electrical question in that there is a lot more to gas installations than appears on the surface.

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I have read the bss and understand about support spacings, joints, access etc but it did not cover pipe size, I am fitting out a new shell so don't know the exact cooker yet otherwise I would give its rating in kws, I will have a look at various ones and use the highest rated one then I am covered, just thinking might be better to put pipe in after and run it across back of galley cupboards as if it goes in gunnel void I won't have access unless I remove work top first.

 

Neil.

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continental pipe has a wall thickness of 1mm meaning 14mm fits inside 12mm inside 10mm inside 8mm. this is too thin for good compression so metric pipe uses inserts for compression fittings.

 

 

I am a little confused by this - should it be the other way around ?

 

(maybe another 10 minutes gone)

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I have read the bss and understand about support spacings, joints, access etc but it did not cover pipe size, I am fitting out a new shell so don't know the exact cooker yet otherwise I would give its rating in kws, I will have a look at various ones and use the highest rated one then I am covered, just thinking might be better to put pipe in after and run it across back of galley cupboards as if it goes in gunnel void I won't have access unless I remove work top first.

 

Neil.

 

In my view a very wise choice. I also think that should go for the majority of the wiring and plumbing as well. Nothing worse than having to dismantle loads of boat to gain access to the services. I am not sure what you mean by the gunnel void because on many narrow boats it is open at the bottom giving access for much of the boat's length. Personally I would cut the back of the galley cupboards so they fit against the hull lining. That way you still have access to the under gunnel area, even if it does involve contortions.

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There is a forth factor. The maximum pressure drop being allowed between the regulator output and the appliance input.

 

The allowable drop depends on the age of the boat IIRC, older boats being allowed a far bigger drop than those built under the RCD.

 

MtB

I'm not sure the age of the boat is a factor per se. There are plenty of new boats that are not built to RCD standards because the owners are fitting-out themselves and using the BSS as guidance.

 

I have read the bss and understand about support spacings, joints, access etc but it did not cover pipe size, I am fitting out a new shell so don't know the exact cooker yet otherwise I would give its rating in kws, I will have a look at various ones and use the highest rated one then I am covered, just thinking might be better to put pipe in after and run it across back of galley cupboards as if it goes in gunnel void I won't have access unless I remove work top first.

 

Neil.

The Calor tables give the correct pipe diameters. Sorry I don't have a link.

Edited by blackrose
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Have to say, sounds like it would probably be best to get a recommended and registered gas bod in (one with a boats ticket.)

 

Not impossible to DIY, far from it but ideally needs exactly the right sort of background.

 

There's plenty of past topics on the subject, the links in my sig lead to an index of some, plus there is the forum search or use google to search the forum.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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I'm not sure the age of the boat is a factor per se. There are plenty of new boats that are not built to RCD standards because the owners are fitting-out themselves and using the BSS as guidance.

 

 

 

PD5482-3 2005 is the industry standard for gas fitting on boats and compliance is mandatory for RCD.

 

If the DIY builder wishes his boat to comply with the gold standard of PD5482-3 2005 then 3mb drop is the max allowed IIRC. But as you say, this is not mandatory provided the boat is not brought to market for five years after finished, in which case he only needs to meet the lower BSS standard in which case I'm not sure there is any max pressure drop defined. So the OP is free to use whatever pipe size he likes provided combustion is not compromised.

 

Any future buyer of the boat may still be a bit bothered that PD5482-3 2005 has not been complied with though.

 

 

MtB

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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Tony, I am ply lining under the gunnels but fully removable but yes its a good idea if I don't line where it is above the galley work tops then as you say it is all gettable by pulling out appliances and crawling in cupboards.

 

Neil

 

If you drop the cabin side lining below gunnel level by about 30cm and finish with hockey stick hardwood moulding fitted with the larger face on the front (assuming ply sides) it will look neat and you will have an open bottomed cavity for you to run the services in that will not be visibly apart from when you are in bed or actively looking for it. Easy access for the whole length

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My 58ft. boat was built to RCD regs. with a full cooker as a single appliance. It is halfway down the boat and supplied with 10mm. pipe, so I reckon the OP will be fine with his short run using 10mm.

 

Probably fine for BSS but not necessarily for RCD or GSIUR. It depends on the heat input rating of the cookers, both yours and the OPs.

 

As we know neither, and you are not (one imagines) a qualified gas fitter this is quite reckless advice to be handing out.

 

 

MtB

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Having been in a similar situation to the OP - fitting out a boat and wanting gas on there - I'd go about it differently. Decide what regs you need the install to, for me it was BSS, choose the appliance you want and then pay someone who knows what they're doing to install the system. I'm sure you could get some recommendations for someone local to you.

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Short answer. Yes. Get a test point fitted as well.

 

Long answer, probably not but when you get the BSS examiner out as long as it doesn't leak etc you get your cert and can licence your boat. Get your mate to look at the BSS regs, they're online if you don't already have the hard copy which is bloody useful to have around when you're fitting a boat out.

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I spoke to a friend who is gas safe registered for mains and he said he would do it for me in 3/8" pipe but he is not qualified on boats, will that be ok for BSS.

 

Neil

 

Defininitely not OK if you are planning to liveaboard - against all the rules.

 

If you are planning to "leisure boat", He's OK as a 'competent' person as long as he is prepared to "put his name to it" in the event of an accident, or worse case - coroners court.

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Short answer. Yes.

 

 

Shorter answer. No.

 

Long answer, no-one can advise you unless you divulge whether this is going to be a liveaboard. Extra regs govern liveaboards.

 

Or maybe like Sabcat you simply don't care about the stupid regs, you just want it to be safe. If this is your approach just say so and we can all stop answering ;)

 

MtB

 

 

 

MtB

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This is one of those situations where it comes down to how you feel about the regs/what you plan to do with the boat. Whatever you decide though I wouldn't be spending any time at all looking at pipe sizes. Get someone in to do it who holds the tickets for what you want to achieve.

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