Waste Water Set-Up!

[NorthwichTrader]

I've just seen this eBay item http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/271455914260 and just wondered what people's experiences were with a flow sensor? Do they block-up with kitchen waste?

Also, any idea what a 'check valve' is for?

Is a tank with a float switch a better solution to a flow sensor?

 

Any recommendations for flow sensors?

 

Any recommendations for tanks/float switches?

[Captain Fizz]

The sink waste would normally exit directly from the boat, kitchen waste will block either pumped system unless you use a macerator.

[NorthwichTrader]

The sink waste would normally exit directly from the boat, kitchen waste will block either pumped system unless you use a macerator.

Sadly, my skin-fitting is too high for the sink waste outlet!

I will also need one for the shower/bathroom sinks...flow sensor or tank/float-switch?

[Paul C]

Sadly, my skin-fitting is too high for the sink waste outlet!

I will also need one for the shower/bathroom sinks...flow sensor or tank/float-switch?

 

Can a skin fitting be fitted which will drain (ie has a slope), yet is still approx. 10" or higher than the waterline? It might require you to seal up (either weld up, or put a blank fitting) in the existing wrongly-located skin fitting.

[Captain Fizz]

Float switch is the norm.

[NorthwichTrader]

 

Can a skin fitting be fitted which will drain (ie has a slope), yet is still approx. 10" or higher than the waterline? It might require you to seal up (either weld up, or put a blank fitting) in the existing wrongly-located skin fitting.

Thanks, Paul, the boat's tug-style, but I'll definitely get the tape measure out! I gave the location of the outlets to the boat-builders, just assuming they'd go as low as was possible! Maybe an unreasonable assumption?

It would be worth the cost of a new fitting if it's possible?

Stuart

[John V]

The sink waste would normally exit directly from the boat, kitchen waste will block either pumped system unless you use a macerator.

 

Whale Gulper will handle non macerated kitchen sink waste with no problem. Mine copes with 18" lift on suction side and 36" lift on outlet side.

[smileypete]

ISTR you might be able to go closer than 10" if the hose between sink and outlet and its method of securing is appropriate (eg two good quality hose clamps at each end).

 

ETA: Here it is:

 

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination/non-private-boats/part-10-hire-boats-safety-features/water-intakes/

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited April 20, 2014 by smileypete

[NorthwichTrader]

ISTR you might be able to go closer than 10" if the hose between sink and outlet and its method of securing is appropriate (eg two good quality hose clamps at each end).

 

ETA: Here it is:

 

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination/non-private-boats/part-10-hire-boats-safety-features/water-intakes/

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Thanks, Pete, the tape measure is definitely coming out tomorrow!

 

Whale Gulper will handle non macerated kitchen sink waste with no problem. Mine copes with 18" lift on suction side and 36" lift on outlet side.

Thanks, John, good to know!

[PaulD]

ISTR you might be able to go closer than 10" if the hose between sink and outlet and its method of securing is appropriate (eg two good quality hose clamps at each end).

 

ETA: Here it is:

 

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination/non-private-boats/part-10-hire-boats-safety-features/water-intakes/

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

I think this 10" rule applies only to non private boats.

[smileypete]

I think this 10" rule applies only to non private boats.

 

True but the alternative/workaround is also good practice for private boats.

 

Maybe the RCD is different here.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited April 21, 2014 by smileypete

[Paul C]

I think this 10" rule applies only to non private boats.

 

1) Its a good guideline

2) private boats are just as likely to sink as non-private boats, when there is a hole below the waterline

3) less than 10", while not massively unsafe all of a sudden, will restrict how much you can load the boat and where you can go, eg biggish rivers in poor(ish) conditions etc.

[PaulD]

1) Its a good guideline

2) private boats are just as likely to sink as non-private boats, when there is a hole below the waterline

3) less than 10", while not massively unsafe all of a sudden, will restrict how much you can load the boat and where you can go, eg biggish rivers in poor(ish) conditions etc.

I agree it is good practice, just don't want the OP to be worried about his BSC if it is a bit less. I fitted a grey water tank and pump and it is a constant problem. I see many boats with engine vents a few inches above the water and that would worry me more.

Edited April 21, 2014 by PaulD

[Guest]

If I had an outlet near to the waterline I would want a welded fitting as opposed to those stupid brass things. I have sheared a couple of those off, an if they were near to the waterline, could have been in trouble. I would avoid those on another build.

[John V]

I agree it is good practice, just don't want the OP to be worried about his BSC if it is a bit less. I fitted a grey water tank and pump and it is a constant problem. I see many boats with engine vents a few inches above the water and that would worry me more.

 

 

I have a 250 litre grey water tank fitted with conventional float switch plus switched overide and Whale Gulper pump, this is on a liveaboard vessel. sink / dishwasher and washing machine all gravity feed in. this system has been in constant use for about 7 years without a single problem

[PaulD]

 

 

I have a 250 litre grey water tank fitted with conventional float switch plus switched overide and Whale Gulper pump, this is on a liveaboard vessel. sink / dishwasher and washing machine all gravity feed in. this system has been in constant use for about 7 years without a single problem

 

Which level switch do you use? We have a Johnson tank complete with Johnson Ultima solid state level switch and have had to change the switch 3 times in 5 years. Due again any time soon. I think the switch case is not completely waterproof - after removing they eventually dry out and work again but not worth putting back. Not easy to fit a different switch into this tank but I must do.

 

Other problem we have found is that with the waste outlet at about 10/11 inches above water level we can sometimes pump the waste water right into the middle of tow path if we are moored that way on - usually when someone is walking past.

 

If I was building the boat again I would settle for direct connection from sink waste to lower welded outlets with proper i.e. swaged hose connections.

[John V]

From memory they are Rule bilge pump switches, I have two mounted at different depths, the higher one operates a relay that is latched in the "on" position by the lower one so that the tank empties completely. They were just the cheapest in the chandlers when I was installing the system. Mostly I use the manual overide switch as the water from the tank is extremely smelly if it has been in there for any length of time.

As regards flooding the towpath, I am fortunate as the outlet is just below the top rubbing band which is an approx 75mm x 35mm channel iron, so I just tacked a small flap of 3mm plate on the lower edge to direct the flow downward.......does cause a streak on the paintwork but as she is a 90 year old ex working barge it's not exactly concourse standards anyway

 

as regards the make of switches, if I have time tomorrow I will open the inspection plate and have a look

[Tuscan]

Our waste outlet is quite close to the water so we had a non return valve fitted as extra piece of mind.

[NorthwichTrader]

Thanks everyone, what a staggering resource, such a great place to bounce ideas around!

I'm curious about the non-return valve, Tuscan, that sounds like a 'best of both worlds' solution!

Did it ever jam?

[ditchcrawler]

Thanks everyone, what a staggering resource, such a great place to bounce ideas around!

I'm curious about the non-return valve, Tuscan, that sounds like a 'best of both worlds' solution!

Did it ever jam?

I can't see how he will ever know unless his boat starts sinking and the washbasin fills with canal water.

[NorthwichTrader]

I can't see how he will ever know unless his boat starts sinking and the washbasin fills with canal water.

Hah, yes, I guess so...though, if the water were high enough outside to fill the sink, I'd probably not be so concerned with the height of the sink outlet!

I can't see how he will ever know unless his boat starts sinking and the washbasin fills with canal water.

Edit: I should probably have used the term 'block' with food debris?

[Tuscan]

Thanks everyone, what a staggering resource, such a great place to bounce ideas around!

I'm curious about the non-return valve, Tuscan, that sounds like a 'best of both worlds' solution!

Did it ever jam?

It has backed up once but emptying u bend and using a plunger did the trick but I think that could happen in a normal sink

[by'eck]

Although typically the sink drain through-hulls are above the water line, there is no need for this if the exit from sink is well above, providing its fitted with a manual stop valve.

 

My last Lloyd's approved Cat A ocean going yacht had fourteen through hull fittings below the water line.

[John V]

PaulD..........checked the tank and the switches are made by Rule.....pretty sure they are just basic models as can't see an model number.

[PaulD]

PaulD..........checked the tank and the switches are made by Rule.....pretty sure they are just basic models as can't see an model number.

Thank you. Nice job for a rainy day.