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Hi

There is a You Tube vid comparing Rust Bullet with 9 of the other leading brands. That is quite one an eye opener but of course the comparison was done by Rust Bullet people so it could be biased.

 

The other one that I looked at on You Tube was Rust Doctor. Again that looked like an excellent product but I cannot find a UK supplier. I haven't used either product. I have only used something called Starbright rust converter and that was carp IMO but then so might these products be rubbish. The only way to know is to use them.

 

There is a link on that web page that you linked to giving UK suppliers of Rust Bullet.

 

Pete

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I need to repaint the inside of a couple of lockers which regulary get water in them. I was thinking of scurfing them out with a wire wheel to bare metal and then painting with International Primocon primer as I have a can, but I wasn't sure what to paint on top. I have some Hammerite but I'm not sure if it likes being immersed in water? No I'm not going to use blacking in case anyone was thinking of suggesting it.

 

I've got some Bonda Prima as well. It's an alkyd-resin based primer. I think I could put that on top of the Primacon, but I'm not sure if it's for underwater applications?

Edited by blackrose
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I need to repaint the inside of a couple of lockers which regulary get water in them. I was thinking of scurfing them out with a wire wheel to bare metal and then painting with International Primocon primer as I have a can, but I wasn't sure what to paint on top. I have some Hammerite but I'm not sure if it likes being immersed in water? No I'm not going to use blacking in case anyone was thinking of suggesting it.

 

I've got some Bonda Prima as well. It's an alkyd-resin based primer. I think I could put that on top of the Primacon, but I'm not sure if it's for underwater applications?

Good plan, but the wire wheel won't get all the rust. After the wheel you need one or mor e of: Fertan, Vactan, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid or similar rust conversion product. Then primer- Bonda Primer is good- then International Danboline as the final two coats. The top coats need to be suitable for use in a wet environment to keep the water away from the primer and the steel.

 

The combination of Fertan, primer and Danboline is surviving well, apart from where it has been mechanically damaged, in my gas and coal lockers, both of which have a tendency to have a wet base.

 

 

N

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Hammerite is a bit brittle so might chip with gas bottles banging against it. I'd use Bondaprimer directly onto prepped steel, with phosphoric acid or failing that Vactan/Fertan for the nooks and crannies. Maybe do a bit of Primicon too for comparison but it seems to call for about 5 coats.

 

Would have thought wire brushing is OK as long as it's down to the metal, not just polishing scale. Doing a bit of linishing where poss with a resin fibre disc could be better. The post by Dave/dmr on the end of this thread seems to indicate Bondaprimer survives wetting quite well :)

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=46157

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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RE: Rustbullet.

 

My Dad bought some and used it to repaint the rear bumper on his Defender 90 which had started to rust...12 months and one winter later, the bumper has started to rust again.

 

He followed the directions to the letter, topped it with black tractor paint and is very disappointed with the results compared to the manufacturers claims.

 

I think there must be better rust paints out there. :)

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RE: Rustbullet.

 

My Dad bought some and used it to repaint the rear bumper on his Defender 90 which had started to rust...12 months and one winter later, the bumper has started to rust again.

 

He followed the directions to the letter, topped it with black tractor paint and is very disappointed with the results compared to the manufacturers claims.

 

I think there must be better rust paints out there. smile.png

Okay thats Rust Bullet off the list then.

 

Blackrose if the Hammerite is the old stuff that used to gunk up the paint brush in about ten minutes it should be okay in a wet enviroment. We painted our garden gates about five years ago in the old Hammerite and they are still going strong. The new Hammerite I'm afraid is just paint. I think the EU got at them or someone else owns them now and new Hammerite just comes off with ordinary thinners. It's rubbish these days.

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Current Hammerite does not like immersion in water for long periods. I've successfully used a 2 part primer called Seajet in my gas locker, which regularly gets very wet. Prior treatment to remove loose rust and convert any remaining corrosion was done, of course, as recommended by earlier replies.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was wondering if anyone has tried FE-123? Inside the bow lockers there is a lot of heavy rust bubbling under the paint so I need to clean all that out then treat with something - the reviews look good for this product.

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So much good info on here thanks - is there anyway to flag it for future reference?

 

Add it to your Bookmarks or Favourites in your web browser (Internet Explorer, Forefox, Opera, whatever)

 

Richard

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I think rust killing potions are just variations on a theme.

 

Something that is not readily appreciated is that rust remedies generally inly convert the first few microns of rust. They certainly aren't a magic formula for 'flakey' rust. For best results the steel has to be as clean as possible THEN apply the rust converter no it reacts with the rust at the base of the pitting.

 

Another good tip which I don't think has been suggested on here is to drive moisture off the steel before painting - infra red heaters are ideal. Drive the moisture out of the pitting/nooks and crannies and immediately apply a protective coating you stop rust dead.wink.png

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I think rust killing potions are just variations on a theme.

 

Something that is not readily appreciated is that rust remedies generally inly convert the first few microns of rust. They certainly aren't a magic formula for 'flakey' rust. For best results the steel has to be as clean as possible THEN apply the rust converter no it reacts with the rust at the base of the pitting.

 

Another good tip which I don't think has been suggested on here is to drive moisture off the steel before painting - infra red heaters are ideal. Drive the moisture out of the pitting/nooks and crannies and immediately apply a protective coating you stop rust dead.wink.png

I agree that rust converters arent really as effective as they are sometimes made out to be. I've used fertan previously and not at all impressed with the longevity of the job. Quickly realised the very best way to go is back to shiny metal. They might still be okay for small patches, I suppose, where you can get good prep before use.

 

Depending on the job I also use Owatrol which is a rust inhibitor and paint thinner. It claims to penetrate and drive moisture out. It also dries a bit like a cross between rubber and plastic so acts as a good moisture barrier. I still don't think it comes anywhere near going back to metal but I find it a lot better than rust converters. Not cheap though. Available in some marinas or serious paint outlets

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