Trad Rear Railing

[Chris Pink]

OK so the general opinion is don't fit it.

 

Next question is what would be the maximum length of the tiller handle toward/into the rear cabin or slightly over the hatch height ?

If I was to stand inside to hatch/doors the tiller would have to be reached, whereas if the tiller was longer so as to protrude over the door height it could be reached much more comfortably - but to what extent would be good ?.

 

I can lean my aft elbow on mine and push it behind my back with the door closed. I'd measure it if it wasn't dark but the height above the hatch rail is a comfortable fist and I'd guess at 9" into the hatchway. Thats on a working boat.

 

Blimey Glynn, That is a big ask detail wise?

 

It's an important ask and will be as near as damn it consistent on older boats and those measurements will make a big difference to comfort, ease of operation and not getting in the way.

Edited March 3, 2013 by Chris Pink

[bottle]

OK so the general opinion is don't fit it.

 

Next question is what would be the maximum length of the tiller handle toward/into the rear cabin or slightly over the hatch height ?

If I was to stand inside to hatch/doors the tiller would have to be reached, whereas if the tiller was longer so as to protrude over the door height it could be reached much more comfortably - but to what extent would be good ?.

 

 

the length of the tiller will vary with each boat, try standing where you would like to steer from and get someone to measure the length required for you to be comfortable.

[scrunch]

This is our arrangement - was like this when we bought the boat a few years ago.

 

We have two tiller arms - the original longer one and then a shorter one I had made so that I can stand in front of it when I'm driving without needing to stand in the boat.

 

Touch wood we've never ever had a problem with our little perching/lean back and resting 'seats' ... we don't have both feet up in the air (there are no foot rests, note). But it makes it more restful for me when I'm not driving - I can hitch one hip up onto the little 'seat'.

Hi Jo Is that Stenson built narrowboat

[Jo_]

No 'tis a Heron

[scrunch]

Cheers Jo sorry all to go off topic had a case of deja vu , quite worrying must start to think about other thing than narrowboats or go to bed

[Glynn]

Here's a pic of the boat, to me the tiller is too short to use while stood on the step or in the cabin.

Whats your thoughts please.

 

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5482/backsb.png

 

Sorry for the link, dont know how to post pics.

Edited March 3, 2013 by Glynn

[haggis]

Here's a pic of the boat, to me the tiller is too short to use while stood on the step or in the cabin.

Whats your thoughts please.

 

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5482/backsb.png

 

Sorry for the link, dont know how to post pics.

 

Put on a longer tiller?

 

haggis

[oarfish]

Our arrangement. Taff seats not a railing. You can perch on the edge, out of the tiller arc. Not sure I'd have them if I was designing a boat but I don't hate them enough to get them removed.

 

Edited March 3, 2013 by oarfish

[Doug_]

Following on from my Cost of Painting topic, I also want some form of railings/seat etc for the stern.

It's a traditional NB, any chance of those with them post pics of them ?

 

Just so I can choose the style.

 

It's your boat so do as you want. When I bought our trad it had Taff rails and my first instinct was 'they have got to go', however after using the boat for a while I actually got used to them. Take note of the advice given about the inherent dangers and you'll be fine. I have had a wraparound cover made for mine that clips to rear cabin sides when moored, this ensures my dogs don't go off for a walk on their own if I leave the rear doors open. Take care and enjoy.Doug

[bizzard]

Chob the tiller ub into lots of bits about 4'' long, slip a long tension sbring inside them under tension so that if the tiller arm meets strong resistance by whamming across and clouting you it will simbly colabse and dangle like Tommy Coopers magic wand.

Edited March 3, 2013 by bizzard

[Québec]

Here's a pic of the boat, to me the tiller is too short to use while stood on the step or in the cabin.

Whats your thoughts please.

 

 

 

Too short, certainly for me. On ours I can stand on the top step, just inside the doors, leaning comfortably forward against the open hatch, and the tiller handle is within easy reach just behind me. Not on the boat as I write this, but I know the end of the tiller extends a little bit beyond the doors when they are closed.

[sam pig]

sam pig, on Yesterday, 06:40 PM, said:

Blimey Glynn, That is a big ask detail wise?

 

 

It's an important ask and will be as near as damn it consistent on older boats and those measurements will make a big difference to comfort, ease of operation and not getting in the way.

 

Aye, that is why I said to take some measurements and pop down to the nearest chandlers and look at the tillers available.

 

We had one made and cost less than a well known chandlers.

 

Get it right first time.

[Chris Pink]

Here's a pic of the boat, to me the tiller is too short to use while stood on the step or in the cabin.

Whats your thoughts please.

 

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5482/backsb.png

 

Sorry for the link, dont know how to post pics.

 

It's impossible to see at that angle. It looks to me like the main problem may be that there's an immediate step down inside the doors. There should be a platform/step inside the doors at the same height as the back deck. Is that correct?

[Glynn]

There is, the inside floors the same level. It's just the steel door bar that makes it look lower.

[Chris Pink]

Ok. Then if anything is wrong it's only the length of the tiller bar. The height and angle is right. You should be able to comfortably swing it behind you whilst stood in the hatches

[down the north]

I agree to the general, these are bad news, its a solution to a bad idea!! Trad sterns were developed to suite a commercial need where access to engine controls and steering go hand in hand,slick rope throwing to speed up a boats passage, all these are compromised by ugly ( even if they are gold plated) seats on a traditional counter,, if you want comfort, get a boat builder to create a social design where safety is not compromised, ie, wheelhouse, open stern deck,engine to rear so youre not breathing diesel fumes all day. Unfortunately we seem to think that the trad stern is the ONLY stern design available to a boatbuilder about to build your 'dream' boat,,,how wrong and naive can that design process be !

cheers,

Martin

[nicknorman]

OK so the general opinion is don't fit it.

 

Next question is what would be the maximum length of the tiller handle toward/into the rear cabin or slightly over the hatch height ?

If I was to stand inside to hatch/doors the tiller would have to be reached, whereas if the tiller was longer so as to protrude over the door height it could be reached much more comfortably - but to what extent would be good ?.

I would say just an inch or two beyond the top of the doors. Sometimes I stand leaning against the back doors with the tiller on my back and steering (on straight stretches) by sliding my back left and right. Works for me!

 

Certainly the tiller in your pic is much too short.

[oarfish]

I would say just an inch or two beyond the top of the doors. Sometimes I stand leaning against the back doors with the tiller on my back and steering (on straight stretches) by sliding my back left and right. Works for me!

 

I also like steering with my arse, leaves hands free for beer.

[nicknorman]

I also like steering with my arse, leaves hands free for beer.

Yes, I just put it more politely!

[Kae]

Sorry, this is a slight tangent, but is there a way to increase the height of the tiller arm easily? The tiller arm on Diligence is just the perfect height and length to catch on the sides of the hatch at the moment, and you easily get your hand/fingers caught!

 

First idea is to shorten the arm by an inch or two, but would increasing its height also improve things?

[Chris Pink]

Yes, you need to remove the swan's neck and increase the angle of the top bend. It can done cold (often in reverse on a lock beam) but a little heat will help. It's an easy operation.

 

I've also done it cold (again in reverse) in situ with a scaff tube.

Edited March 4, 2013 by Chris Pink

[Kae]

Thanks Chris, although I'm having trouble envisaging what you mean by "in reverse on a lock beam".

[Chris Pink]

I bent my swan's neck by getting it caught under a lock beam rising in a lock.

[Timleech]

Yes, you need to remove the swan's neck and increase the angle of the top bend. It can done cold (often in reverse on a lock beam) but a little heat will help. It's an easy operation.

 

 

Overdone, that can look horrible with the tiller pointing to the skies. Bets way is to first heat the bottom bend of the Ram's head (swan's neck if you must!) and bend it forewards a bit, then heat the upper bend and adjust the tiller height to just where you want it. In my book, to look right the line of the tiller should be horizontal or angled slightly downward towards the front, especially the latter if the cabin sweeps up at the stern. Again in my book, the business end should project just a few inches over the cabin and the height should give knuckle clearance but not much more above the slide runners.

 

Tim

[bizzard]

The easiest way of raising the tiller handle is to trab the swan neck between bottom lock gates going ubhill and let the water in. With a bit of careful judgement you can do it quite accurately.

I over did this bending once going ub the GU at Hunton bridge locks and had to travel to the next bub with it sticking ub in the air like a Howitzers gun barrel. I had the good intention of heating it with my Propane outfit to bend it back but on returning from the boozer Dutch courage allowed me to bend back it cold.