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Blacking or epoxy coating?

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Chalky Experienced

Chalky

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not just barges

 

paintbism1941rheinub01sidelarge.gif

 

Actually, it's a look I quite like on certain kinds of boat. It's something I would certainly consider for a steam launch

 

Richard

 

I believe that was how she looked prior to shot blasting. Apparently they never had a need to repaint the hull afterwards.

 

The Duke of York did use a rather large size shot though - 14"

Edited by Chalky
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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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Posted (edited)

I believe that was how she looked prior to shot blasting. Apparently they never had a need to repaint the hull afterwards.

 

The Duke of York did use a rather large size shot though - 14"

 

Don't you just love anoraky pedantry...

 

Almost. By the time she left for treatment by the Duke of York, she looked like this:

 

paintbism1941rheinub06sidelarge.gif

 

Richard

Edited by RLWP
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Timleech Veteran II

Timleech

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It was, at which point, I think you have answered your own question!

- I've only ever used what we use, so cant really compare it to comastic, but im sure its not unique.

- Its fairly thick, skins rapidly and dries shortly after, goes really fairly hard, washes out with xylene or just chuck the roller.

 

 

Daniel

 

I wasn't sure whether Leighs had made a coal tar 2-pack in the past, but I know they don't currently do so

 

Tim

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Ex- Member Veteran II

Ex- Member

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies. Think I'll be going down the epoxy route and see how well it survives over time.

 

I agree after quite a bit of research. We will be grit blasted though so the perfect prep for this type of paint. Jotun is our preferred choice at this time.

 

What has put me off of bitumen type products is they are easily compromised by floating chemicals such as diesel as well as being soft anyway and easily scratched off or rubbed of by fenders crushing against the hull side.

 

When our boat was removed from the water after 18 months there was a clear loss of bitumen either side of the waterline all around the boat, a week out of the water and you could clearly see orange rust beginning to form all along this water line spreading about 2 to 3 inches either side. Bearing in mind we added 2 additional coats of bitumen following delivery of the new boat from he builder before it went into the water, it really didn't take long for it to degrade.

 

The water line is also the most susceptible area to corrosion on the hull due to the amount of oxygen available. So using a so called protective paint that degrades the quickest in the area that requires the most protection simply doesn't add up logically or even financially.

 

The argument that you should have your boat out of the water anyway after 2 years or so doesn't wash with me either, you can inspect the Hull by underwater camera at any time. Being able to cruise for up to 5 years or over without the hassle and costs of lifting or dry docking IMO is worth every penny extra it costs for shot blasting and a good epoxy coating.

 

We should be doing ours in 2 to 3 weeks, I'll try to take photo's of the entire job.

Edited by Julynian
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Timleech Veteran II

Timleech

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Posted

 

 

When our boat was removed from the water after 18 months there was a clear loss of bitumen either side of the waterline all around the boat, a week out of the water and you could clearly see orange rust beginning to form all along this water line spreading about 2 to 3 inches either side. Bearing in mind we added 2 additional coats of bitumen following delivery of the new boat from he builder before it went into the water, it really didn't take long for it to degrade.

 

 

 

Had the mill scale been removed from the steel before the initial blacking? If it isn't done, the blacking will not key to the hull and will scrape off very easily, and then rust will start quickly especially along the waterline. The rusting will lift the millscale, though ;)

 

Tim

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Ex- Member Veteran II

Ex- Member

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Had the mill scale been removed from the steel before the initial blacking? If it isn't done, the blacking will not key to the hull and will scrape off very easily, and then rust will start quickly especially along the waterline. The rusting will lift the millscale, though ;)

 

Tim

 

Oh yeah there was a fair amount of it in some areas, I actually let the boat to weather for a few months which removed it all then quickly cleaned it up a bit and coated with bitumen. I'll be glad to see the grit blaster doing it's job and getting rid of the stuff.

 

We've decided not to go on the water now until early March next year as we've really run out of time this year, so we'll see how the epoxy holds up for a few months prior to going on the water. As we'll now have more time I might well give the hull an extra coat or two. I will kick off with the primer though and make sure I get it in to every crevice possible.

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Chalky Experienced

Chalky

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Posted

Just collected the boat after blacking. Last had it epoxy blacked with new anodes 5 years ago (intended to get it done sooner however life interrupted). There was no sign of deterioration after 5 years and the anodes had some minor usage. Worth while investment.

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Ex- Member Veteran II

Ex- Member

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Just collected the boat after blacking. Last had it epoxy blacked with new anodes 5 years ago (intended to get it done sooner however life interrupted). There was no sign of deterioration after 5 years and the anodes had some minor usage. Worth while investment.

 

 

 

Good to hear, I put the 4th coat on yesterday, have 2 coats of hard top to go, weather is a right pain, I only have a 4 day window left to get the next coat on. Also what I coated yesterday turned White as it pissed down with rain about 30 minutes after finishing, hope the hard ttop doesn't do this as well.

 

 

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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Posted

Just collected the boat after blacking. Last had it epoxy blacked with new anodes 5 years ago (intended to get it done sooner however life interrupted). There was no sign of deterioration after 5 years and the anodes had some minor usage. Worth while investment.

 

Our rear anodes must be nearly half consumed now after eight years

 

That's with ordinary blacking

 

Richard

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Machpoint005 Veteran II

Machpoint005

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The thing that would worry me is that if I had an epoxy finish on the hull instead of conventional blacking, the boat would come out of the water less often and so the routine inspection of submarine bits and pieces would be less frequent (anodes, to name just one). Since the major expense involved is getting the boat out and back again, you might as well re-black while you're at it. Hence, epoxy isn't cheaper even in the long run.

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steve hayes Proficient

steve hayes

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The thing that would worry me is that if I had an epoxy finish on the hull instead of conventional blacking, the boat would come out of the water less often and so the routine inspection of submarine bits and pieces would be less frequent (anodes, to name just one). Since the major expense involved is getting the boat out and back again, you might as well re-black while you're at it. Hence, epoxy isn't cheaper even in the long run.

 

I know it's not quite the same, but when we are in nice clear water I talk the opportunity to have a good butchers at the wet bits. After four years the only rust I can see below water is on the edge of the base plate, there is plenty above water courtesy of dodgy pillings and lock gate hardware :angry:

 

Steve

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ditchcrawler Veteran II

ditchcrawlerDonate to Canal World

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Had the mill scale been removed from the steel before the initial blacking? If it isn't done, the blacking will not key to the hull and will scrape off very easily, and then rust will start quickly especially along the waterline. The rusting will lift the millscale, though ;)

 

Tim

Too common IMO

 

The thing that would worry me is that if I had an epoxy finish on the hull instead of conventional blacking, the boat would come out of the water less often and so the routine inspection of submarine bits and pieces would be less frequent (anodes, to name just one). Since the major expense involved is getting the boat out and back again, you might as well re-black while you're at it. Hence, epoxy isn't cheaper even in the long run.

Just take a trip up the Thames or on the Nene and you can see them in the clear water

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  • 3 months later...
lesrollins Proficient

lesrollins

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As we need our 70ft narrowboat blacked this year we might go down the 2 pack route the quotes we have had range from £2000 - £2500 is this about the norm for a 70ft narrowboat, I am just trying to get some idea of costings. Those prices are for the work to be done and include vat etc.

Cheers

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