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Washing machines with generators...


adrian's boat

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Hi, I'm after a bit of advice.

Does anyone know a currently produced washing machine that will run on a Honda eu26i generator?

 

I currently have an Indesit WIXL123 but it just goes mental when I try to run it from the genny.

I saw a very useful post from a chap who runs a Zanussi ZWC1300C from a Honda generator but they don't make them any more (oh no!).

 

Any advice gratefully received!

 

Adrian.

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Hi, I'm after a bit of advice.

Does anyone know a currently produced washing machine that will run on a Honda eu26i generator?

 

I currently have an Indesit WIXL123 but it just goes mental when I try to run it from the genny.

I saw a very useful post from a chap who runs a Zanussi ZWC1300C from a Honda generator but they don't make them any more (oh no!).

 

Any advice gratefully received!

 

Adrian.

 

Can't help with the genny issue but the compact Zanussi machine ZWC1301W is still available 'cos I recently bought one. Don't know the difference between this & the previous ZWC1300 but can't imagine its much.

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Hi, I'm after a bit of advice.

Does anyone know a currently produced washing machine that will run on a Honda eu26i generator?

 

I currently have an Indesit WIXL123 but it just goes mental when I try to run it from the genny.

I saw a very useful post from a chap who runs a Zanussi ZWC1300C from a Honda generator but they don't make them any more (oh no!).

 

Any advice gratefully received!

 

Adrian.

 

The Honda EU range have generally a good ( washing machine acceptable) output waveform. You will need to check that the consumption stays below the

capability of the genny - some / most have two or three heating elements and one or two can be disabled ( disconnected) to reduce the maximum draw. It will take

a bit longer to heat water but will save buying a larger generator...

 

Some have also arranged for a warm water fill with a mixing valve which would help reduce washing and generator time / noise, assuming you don't have a hot and cold fill machine - most don't these days...

 

Hope that gives some points to ponder...

 

Nick

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Hi,

We have just done this. Our Hyundai 3 KvA (2.6 Kw/2.8 overload), which is a pure sine wave output, runs a NEW Candy GOSF262 (£179 from Tesco Direct). The Candy only draws 2400 KW in total if all the electrical bits run at the same time. The motor takes 400 watts or so, and the heater 1300 watts. The Hyundai is quite happy running it and the Candy copes happily (Now done 5 odd half hour loads and one 2 hour cycle).

 

Both of us are quite happy with this. The Candy has an advantage in that it is slimline (depth) being only 400mm and slips easily in through the front door.

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I run a Zanussi ZWC1300C (1600w max) from a Honda EU30i. Sometimes the washing machine starts straight away and other times I have to wait for the washing machine to accept the generator's offering. I don't know why this happens, I've never got to the bottom of it. I would have thought it would either work or it wouldn't, but something in the digital front end of the washing machine must be right on the edge when connected to the generator. I'm on shore power most of the time so when I'm away I can live with the waiting when it happens because I'm usually running the battery charger too. It is a bit odd though because the Honda EU range are supposed to produce a cleaner sine wave than the mains.

Edited by blackrose
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Thanks very much indeed, it sounds like the Candy GOSF262 is the baby for me, although it sounds like you got a very good price there Rustykev.

 

I've given up on my indesit. Even with the genny set to full power and the washing machine on a cold wash it still doesn't work. Bloody thing.

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I have a Hoover Aquarius wdd740 and it runs fine with my kipor kge3000ti provided I fill with hot water. The genny struggles if the water heater kicks in. The dryer function runs fine too on the genny.

 

I think it all depends on how clean the sine wave produced by the generator is.

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I think it all depends on how clean the sine wave produced by the generator is.

 

That seems to be the accepted wisdom, but given that some generators are meant to produce a cleaner sinewave than the mains yet still have problems running some washing machines, I can't help feeling that there's more to it than that.

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From experience in another industry, some things fall down when the mains frequency varies too much, especially dimmers in theatre. In an auto washer the motor is fully on during a spin cycle the rest of the time it's "dimmed" down to a gentle agitate mode. I'm guessing from this that as the motor comes on the generator slows slightly and the motor speed controller falls down. May be a reason to use an inverter with electronically controlled speed.

Edited by Arthur Brown
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The Candy GOSF262 looks like a good machine.

 

http://www.appliance-reviews.co.uk/p/Candy-GOFS262-Washing-Machines-in-White-21759/reviews#tabs

 

I chose the Zanussi about 5 years ago partly due to it's low power draw (1.6kw), even though I have a 3kw generator (2.8kw rated). I was mindful of any motor's startup load so I didn't want a full size washing machine because I wasn't sure if the generator could cope, but RustKev's Hyundai seems to run the Candy ok and that draws something between 2.15kw and 2.4kw. The advantage of the Candy is a full size drum which can take a 6kg load, whereas the Zanussi only has a 3kg drum.

 

The Zanussi has been a good machine, but I'll get the Candy if it ever packs up.

 

From experience in another industry, some things fall down when the mains frequency varies too much, especially dimmers in theatre. In an auto washer the motor is fully on during a spin cycle the rest of the time it's "dimmed" down to a gentle agitate mode. I'm guessing from this that as the motor comes on the generator slows slightly and the motor speed controller falls down. May be a reason to use an inverter with electronically controlled speed.

 

Could be, but I thought the Honda EU range already had some sort of inverter contolled output to enhance the sinewave? My Honda has some issues starting the washing machine, but once it's started it runs fine. I've never had a problem with the cycle once the washing machine starts, but sometimes I have to wait for an hour until it decides it wants to start.

Edited by blackrose
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The Honda EU range have generally a good ( washing machine acceptable) output waveform. You will need to check that the consumption stays below the

capability of the genny - some / most have two or three heating elements and one or two can be disabled ( disconnected) to reduce the maximum draw. It will take

a bit longer to heat water but will save buying a larger generator...

 

Some have also arranged for a warm water fill with a mixing valve which would help reduce washing and generator time / noise, assuming you don't have a hot and cold fill machine - most don't these days...

 

Hope that gives some points to ponder...

 

Nick

Thats a good idea,Wonder if a switch could be added safely to isolate one of the elements while using the genny.Our honda 20i will run the washer drier but hates initial start up and heating, everything else 240v needs to be completly turned off for it to work on the start up and heating programme after that no problems

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I think the small Candy has that function...which is why i have it over the Zanussi.

 

Gennies and washing machines are a bit of a dark art. Some combos work - some don't. If there is any way you can test them before hand do so...it is very costly and annoying if it doesn't.

 

I ended up with the small Candy and it's cold wash ie element off button and a mixing valve. My Vetus gen just does not play ball...

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It really is a dark art!

I read somewhere that it's a problem with 'Thyristors', but now I've read up on them I don't see how it can be.

The Honda eu26i can be set to 'full power mode' giving 2.6kV available and it's meant to have a sine wave purer that the mains,

but my tricky little washing machine seems to be able to tell the difference.

 

Not one person seems to have had a problem with the Candy.

Does it have an old fashioned 'dial' instead of electronic control?

 

AA

Edited by adrian's boat
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I do find it strange that considering automatic washing machines use so much power and require large inverters and decent size generators to operate them that boaters especially continuous cruisers would bother with such an energy wasting piece of machinery. We did originally desire to have one but when looking at their energy usage and additional equipment to use them we decided to go another route. Eventually we've decided on a twin tub washing machine suggested by Lynn surprisingly there are many upsides to using these rather than auto's.

 

You can choose the water temperature you require direct from the tap via caloifier or other sources, rather than heating water with electricity.

You can dictate the timing or your wash depending on amount and how dirty it is, rather than being restricted half or full load cycles.

They wash quicker due to agitation mechanism, making wash times much less than auto machines.

You can spin dry clothes as well as or if not better that a auto washer.

You can soak washing like heavy soiled stuff for as long as you like so reducing wash time.

Twin tubs are much cheaper than auto machines.

They run on simple drive belts motors & pumps and are generally easier to repair with no complicated electronics.

They;re lighter in weight and more manouvreable, can be tucked away when not in use.

Will run of most generators as there's no fancy electrics.

Uses much less water.

Made from plastic won' rust.

You can check your washing for cleanliness during cycle.

You don't have to bend down to fill them with washing.

 

The model we'll probably go for is this one. £89.00 5.8kg wash load.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_5956wt_1067

 

Some twin tubs don' have drain pumps, you really need one with on a boat, or arrange draining with a pump of your own.

 

Ok you do have to do a little more with a twin tub than you do with an auto, but it's simply having to fill with water for washing. Then transferring the wash from wash tub to spin drier. Not exactly strenuous work and undertaken in minutes. This model has a wash timer and spin timer so you don't have to stand over it.

 

With regard to energy use the wash cycle is just 250 watts 20.8 amps and spin cycle 160 watts 13.3 amps.

 

Lynn has used a few twin tubs in the past and a heavy soiled load takes no more than 15 minutes. And spin drying heavy materials like towels - jeans etc takes 5 minutes or much less for delicates, It has a spin speed of 1380 RPM comparable and in many cases better than many auto machines.

 

I don't know how much energy an auto washer uses per wash, but the speed my leccy meter a home goes round when it's on i reckon a lot.

 

There are many other models of twin tub though, one even offering a 5 year parts and labour warranty, that unit costs around £300 though by Polar.

Edited by Julynian
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Even at home we use a post war (?) Electrolux spin dryer which has a spin speed of ( I measured it) 2900 rpm !! Even after using the 1400 spin speed of the front loader, it manages to spin significantly more water out of the load, so reducing moisture in the house (if having to dry in the house) and presumably also reducing drying time...

 

Nick

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I do find it strange that considering automatic washing machines use so much power and require large inverters and decent size generators to operate them that boaters especially continuous cruisers would bother with such an energy wasting piece of machinery. We did originally desire to have one but when looking at their energy usage and additional equipment to use them we decided to go another route. Eventually we've decided on a twin tub washing machine suggested by Lynn surprisingly there are many upsides to using these rather than auto's.

 

You can choose the water temperature you require direct from the tap via caloifier or other sources, rather than heating water with electricity.

You can dictate the timing or your wash depending on amount and how dirty it is, rather than being restricted half or full load cycles.

They wash quicker due to agitation mechanism, making wash times much less than auto machines.

You can spin dry clothes as well as or if not better that a auto washer.

You can soak washing like heavy soiled stuff for as long as you like so reducing wash time.

Twin tubs are much cheaper than auto machines.

They run on simple drive belts motors & pumps and are generally easier to repair with no complicated electronics.

They;re lighter in weight and more manouvreable, can be tucked away when not in use.

Will run of most generators as there's no fancy electrics.

Uses much less water.

Made from plastic won' rust.

You can check your washing for cleanliness during cycle.

You don't have to bend down to fill them with washing.

 

The model we'll probably go for is this one. £89.00 5.8kg wash load.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...#ht_5956wt_1067

 

Some twin tubs don' have drain pumps, you really need one with on a boat, or arrange draining with a pump of your own.

 

Ok you do have to do a little more with a twin tub than you do with an auto, but it's simply having to fill with water for washing. Then transferring the wash from wash tub to spin drier. Not exactly strenuous work and undertaken in minutes. This model has a wash timer and spin timer so you don't have to stand over it.

 

With regard to energy use the wash cycle is just 250 watts 20.8 amps and spin cycle 160 watts 13.3 amps.

 

Lynn has used a few twin tubs in the past and a heavy soiled load takes no more than 15 minutes. And spin drying heavy materials like towels - jeans etc takes 5 minutes or much less for delicates, It has a spin speed of 1380 RPM comparable and in many cases better than many auto machines.

 

I don't know how much energy an auto washer uses per wash, but the speed my leccy meter a home goes round when it's on i reckon a lot.

 

There are many other models of twin tub though, one even offering a 5 year parts and labour warranty, that unit costs around £300 though by Polar.

Agreed, if a washing machine is what you want this 12v one is the only sensible way to go.I know a couple people with them and they're very pleased with them.

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I always go for pre digital electo-mechanical control models, they don't care what sine wave you put in them, and i can fix them easy, and the icing on the cake is you can find as many as you want for free, council tips, freecycle ect. Most machines are scrapped because they don't look sexy enough for a new kitchen.

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A twin tub is useful if you have time to supervise the laundry, if you need to be going to work then an auto washing machine will do more while you are away.

 

What you gain in convenience you lose on power consumed.

 

I've not got a washing machine,but i don't think i'd be leaving an automatic one unattended running off inverter or generator and not direct mains from a landline.Anything might happen,return home and find everything had gone berserk perhaps even a burn't out boat,despite all yer trips and fuses.

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A twin tub is useful if you have time to supervise the laundry, if you need to be going to work then an auto washing machine will do more while you are away.

 

What you gain in convenience you lose on power consumed.

 

Hi Arhur

 

You don't have to supervise twin tub washing, there are timers for each operation ie wash and spin you can set at what ever time you desire ang go make tea - cruise - watch telly - make love etc

 

 

 

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I have solved it!

 

It was nothing to do with an impure sine wave or lack of power. It does indeed appear to have been a thyristor issue.

A thyristor is basically just two transistors arranged so that the emitter of the first is connected to the base of the second. This means that a small electrical signal is required to 'switch the circuit on' but once it's on it will stay on until the supply current drops enough for the circuit to switch off.

Once I'd worked this out it occurred to me that such a system would be very vulnerable to even a slight voltage drop.

This fits in with blackrose's experience of having to have other things running to get the washing machine to 'get going'.

It appears that even on 'full power mode' the eu26i isn't churning out a consistent 240v, so as an experiment I switched on the tumble drier for 10 seconds then switched it off and switched the washing machine on. It ran fine and completed the whole cycle.

 

For anyone else who has problems with washine machines I'd be interested to know if the same solution fits. Run any high current device like an iron, hairdrier or room heater for ten seconds, switch it off, then try the washing machine. And for those who consider a washing machine an unnecessary luxury on a canal boat I'll let you know how I get on with my dishwasher.

 

Regards,

Adrian

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