Painting Iroko hand rails

[Troyboy]

The original owner of my steel narrowboat specified iroko hand rails I suspect intending to varnish them to show the grain etc. He clearly soon abandoned that idea as when I bought it 26 years ago he had painted over the wood using Woolworths paint which in those days was surprisingly good and kept its shine well . Over the years I have had continual problems with the paint peeling / flaking off this wood in some areas . I suspect my poor preparation has been partially to blame so I'm intending this time to strip all the paint off using nitromors and start again .

My question is will I continue to have problems due to the nature of this wood and how should I best proceed to hopefully keep the new paint on .

I went onto Wikipedia and it mentions the wood coming from Africa and according to stories in that part of the world spirits exist in the wood that come out and cause bad things to happen to owners . Additionally if sanding it down the dust is carcinogenic .

I know I should really replace them with steel but I cannot face the hassle as the wood rails are easy to remove and I wouldn't want to upset 'the spirits' .

[Grace and Favour]

The original owner of my steel narrowboat specified iroko hand rails I suspect intending to varnish them to show the grain etc. He clearly soon abandoned that idea as when I bought it 26 years ago he had painted over the wood using Woolworths paint which in those days was surprisingly good and kept its shine well . Over the years I have had continual problems with the paint peeling / flaking off this wood in some areas . I suspect my poor preparation has been partially to blame so I'm intending this time to strip all the paint off using nitromors and start again .

My question is will I continue to have problems due to the nature of this wood and how should I best proceed to hopefully keep the new paint on .

I went onto Wikipedia and it mentions the wood coming from Africa and according to stories in that part of the world spirits exist in the wood that come out and cause bad things to happen to owners . Additionally if sanding it down the dust is carcinogenic .

I know I should really replace them with steel but I cannot face the hassle as the wood rails are easy to remove and I wouldn't want to upset 'the spirits' .

 

Nearly all Iroko is sanded down these days, IFAIK, so I would worry about it being overly carcinogenic (or use a face mask) - - though - if the truth be told, I would personally sand the paint off mechanically, (or use Nitromors if you wish) then prepare the Iroko with wire wool, (finishing off with xxxx grade) - At this point, if you like the look of the timber - you could always use Danish oil on it - - really easy to apply with a cloth rubber, and just takes 1 fresh coat a year to look stunning - - - - (so very much easier than painting.

 

If you wish to use paint - then use wood primer, a few coats of (Weathershield) undercoat, and then Dulux Weathershield - - it's good stuff

[Keeping Up]

Iroko is a beautiful wood, it really shouldn't be covered up. Ours has never been stained or varnished, it has lasted really well for 20 years with nothing more than a light waxing with furniture polish once a year.

[carlt]

I'd strip all the paint off and varnish it, using a compatible varnish such as Le Tonkinois.

[RobinJ]

Nearly all Iroko is sanded down these days, IFAIK, so I would worry about it being overly carcinogenic (or use a face mask) - - though - if the truth be told, I would personally sand the paint off mechanically, (or use Nitromors if you wish) then prepare the Iroko with wire wool, (finishing off with xxxx grade) - At this point, if you like the look of the timber - you could always use Danish oil on it - - really easy to apply with a cloth rubber, and just takes 1 fresh coat a year to look stunning - - - - (so very much easier than painting.

 

If you wish to use paint - then use wood primer, a few coats of (Weathershield) undercoat, and then Dulux Weathershield - - it's good stuff

I believe Iroko is one of the hardwoods that has a high oil content, hence why it is used.

So Oil sounds like the best solution, but if painted would need to be a good oil based paint and not a acrylic/polyuethane type!

[BEngo]

The original owner of my steel narrowboat specified iroko hand rails I suspect intending to varnish them to show the grain etc. He clearly soon abandoned that idea as when I bought it 26 years ago he had painted over the wood using Woolworths paint which in those days was surprisingly good and kept its shine well . Over the years I have had continual problems with the paint peeling / flaking off this wood in some areas . I suspect my poor preparation has been partially to blame so I'm intending this time to strip all the paint off using nitromors and start again .

My question is will I continue to have problems due to the nature of this wood and how should I best proceed to hopefully keep the new paint on .

I went onto Wikipedia and it mentions the wood coming from Africa and according to stories in that part of the world spirits exist in the wood that come out and cause bad things to happen to owners . Additionally if sanding it down the dust is carcinogenic .

I know I should really replace them with steel but I cannot face the hassle as the wood rails are easy to remove and I wouldn't want to upset 'the spirits' .

 

 

Iroko is an oily timber, so nothing much sticks to it. That, rather than preparation, is the root of your peeling problem. As suggested by Grace and Favour, Danish, Tung or teak oil might be a good paint substitute, or you could just leave it to weather. If you must paint it try starting with a primer which contains aluminium applied to timber which has been well scrubbed with turps substitute.

 

If you are having trouble with spirits then try either water (Scottish spirits), tonic ( London, Bombay or Plymouth spirits) or ginger ale (most other EU spirits), as appropriate to the type of spirit. Pure African spirits may require a white cane!

 

N

[Ex- Member]

Totally agree Iroko shouldn't be covered, we have made 2 kidney shaped stern seats from it purchased from a hard wood specialist, you don't need to do anything to it, that's why it's widely used outside and left to weather naturally, it is a beautiful wood colour and grain also. I would strip all paint off sand back smooth and finish of with fine wire wool, you'll get a nice smooth sheen on the wood, and that's it, leave it to weather it will outlive you.

 

Name: Iroko (Chlorophora excelsa)

 

Occurrence: Western and Eastern Africa, especially in the Cameroons, Nigeria, Togo, Ivory Coast, Liberia and Uganda.

 

Wood colour: The wood has a golden brown colour. The sapwood is yellowish white.

 

Properties: Iroko is a hard, very solid type of hardwood, with an average density of 630 kg/m³. Iroko is extremely durable outdoors, and is especially resistant to fungi.

 

Processing: Iroko is difficult to work and glue due to the wood's mineral content. It is a good idea to use a carbide cutting edge and to use synthetic glue when gluing.

 

Surface treatment: Difficult due to colour seepage. It is recommended that Iroko is cleaned with a cleaning fluid prior to surface treatment. Iroko with >12% wood moisture can cause metal corrosion.

 

Outdoor use: Windows, outer doors, and anywhere outdoors where durability is a requirement.

Edited March 15, 2012 by Julynian

[Troyboy]

Many thanks for all your quick replies , plenty for me to consider once I get the paint off . This really is a brilliant Forum .

[Ally]

We use Iroko quite a bit for external seats and cratch frames/boards...always needs thoroughly washing down with white spirit to get the initial oil off the surface, then we oil it with external wax oil. Easy to maintain for the future.

[Guest wanted]

I'd use Danish oil or Teak oil once a year. I have some Iroko work tops for the boat on their way from a mate and can't wait to get them in....

[cereal tiller]

We use Iroko quite a bit for external seats and cratch frames/boards...always needs thoroughly washing down with white spirit to get the initial oil off the surface, then we oil it with external wax oil. Easy to maintain for the future.

Iroko is sometimes called PEPPER WOOD,the dust can make you sneeze and DO NOT allow any dust to get in your eyes,when sanding it make sure you use a respirator,not just a D I Y dustmask.

 

our boat has solid teak door liners which are exposed to weather during the summer,and the stern seat is teak also.

 

all the teak is protected with yacht varnish,it need freshening up every 5 or so years.

 

oil is a better finish if the timber has less than perfect joints,as the end grain is prone to trapping water.

[Ally]

proper Teak is hard to get hold of nowadays though, especially in any decent size, and very expensive! We once did external semi door clads in sapele, that has weathered very well too.

[dave moore]

Hi

 

We have wooden handrails made from Opepe on Resolute. Before they were painted we treated then with a couple of coats of resin ( as in fibreglass resin), a 2 pack product made by West systems. This was sanded smooth and the handrails then painted conventionally - primers, undercoats and glosses. 10 years on they stiill look good and feel great - not too cold in winter, nor hot in summer. I've seen steel hansrails added as a retrofit and I've not been impressed. I'm happy to talk to you should you wish to do so, PM me for a phone number.

 

Cheeers

 

 

Dave

[Colin Smith]

I'd strip all the paint off and varnish it, using a compatible varnish such as Le Tonkinois.

 

 

Absolutely!! Tonks is ideal. It's easy to use, little or no smell and just needs a gentle 'wipe' over with wire wool between coats. I've used it on the wheelhouse timber which is Iroko. Put 5 coats on it and it looks fantastic - brings out the natural golden colour and grain of the wood. It's perfect for this type of timber. After a few years, if needed, all you do is lightly rub it over with wire wool and bang another coat on. No need to sand it down like other varnishes.

 

Simples!!

 

Colin

[macc]

my 25 ft river cruiser is made out of iroko on oak last owner was not so kind to her and used sadolin,it took me ages to get her back to bare wood and varnished however there was to much moisture in the wood so i painted on top of the varnish with crown solo paint it held good for years.

[Timleech]

my 25 ft river cruiser is made out of iroko on oak last owner was not so kind to her and used sadolin,it took me ages to get her back to bare wood and varnished however there was to much moisture in the wood so i painted on top of the varnish with crown solo paint it held good for years.

 

If you are going to paint it, 'degrease' it with some solvent just before priming with either something like International Yacht Primer (thin the first coat, then give it a full strength coat), or a 2-pack primer which is recommended as suitable, I think the International clear 2-pack is one but best to check.

 

Tim