Water seepage along swim

[blackrose]

A good idea a saw somewhere is to lead the drain pipe to the side of the weed-hatch trunk, above the water level. That avoids the flooding risk you're worrying about, and keeps the inevitable rusty stain from the pipe from being visible on the side of the boat.

 

MP.

 

Could pressure in the weed hatch when the prop's spinning actually force water up the tube and into the gutter which would then overflow?

 

I have downpipes from my gutters going out the side of the boat. Never really noticed the rusty stain you mentioned.

Edited February 10, 2012 by blackrose

[Radiomariner]

My bet would be condensation, especially if the engine is run in these sub zero temperatures. If it is a leak then the source must be identified.

 

No. Definately blocked gutters. Open hatch and gutters are full of water. This water overflows and tends to run along the undersides of the gutters and if the gutter is of upturned "C" section welded to side plating (on cruiser sterns it usually is) and eventuall causes rusty stains down the inside of hull plating. The underside of the guttering in such cases is often very heavily corroded.

 

Could pressure in the weed hatch when the prop's spinning actually force water up the tube and into the gutter which would then overflow?

 

I have downpipes from my gutters going out the side of the boat. Never really noticed the rusty stain you mentioned.

(It was me that mentioned rust staining.) Thats because you probably keep your drain gullies clear

[ditchcrawler]

Yes. As an examiner I have seen lots of boats with unnecessary internal rust because drain gully is not kept clear.

Point of interest: I have seen a number of newish boats which appear to have such a drain of steel pipe going straight down and through the bottom plate. Might be OK now, but will be a matter of concern as the boat gets older.

We had one like that, 2 pieces of box section supporting the deck gutters.

[blackrose]

(It was me that mentioned rust staining.) Thats because you probably keep your drain gullies clear

 

I wire brushed them out and painted them with smooth black hammerite.

[Ray T]

Thanks one and all.

 

I will follow Blackrose's suggestion and to do a belt & braces job, fit diverter battons as well on the uxter plate and lag the central heating piles - can't harm can it?

[J R ALSOP]

If you want to stop water coming up the rudder tube, fit a splash washer on the rudder stock, a disc ( slightly bigger than tube diameter) made of conveyor belting. This slides up and down with the water pressure and closes of the hole. It is best fitted when out of water and slid on, but can be fitted if you have a thick enough piece of material, slit from outer edge to centre hole, twist and slip on. I have seen ones made from wood and screwed together. It also helps when you drop the boat on the cill ( it is a bit less to bend the skeg up).

[Speedwheel]

If you want to stop water coming up the rudder tube, fit a splash washer on the rudder stock, a disc ( slightly bigger than tube diameter) made of conveyor belting. This slides up and down with the water pressure and closes of the hole. It is best fitted when out of water and slid on, but can be fitted if you have a thick enough piece of material, slit from outer edge to centre hole, twist and slip on. I have seen ones made from wood and screwed together. It also helps when you drop the boat on the cill ( it is a bit less to bend the skeg up).

 

Like this

[J R ALSOP]

That looks more like a" Frisbie" than a splash washer.

[bizzard]

If you want to stop water coming up the rudder tube, fit a splash washer on the rudder stock, a disc ( slightly bigger than tube diameter) made of conveyor belting. This slides up and down with the water pressure and closes of the hole. It is best fitted when out of water and slid on, but can be fitted if you have a thick enough piece of material, slit from outer edge to centre hole, twist and slip on. I have seen ones made from wood and screwed together. It also helps when you drop the boat on the cill ( it is a bit less to bend the skeg up).

Or if there's room under where the swan neck fixes to the top of the rudder stock a large stick together car drive-shaft CV boot.A large Renault one like the Laguna fit nicely,available at motor factors,car spares shops ect. I have a Peugeot 506 one on mine.

[Grace and Favour]

If you want to stop water coming up the rudder tube, fit a splash washer on the rudder stock, a disc ( slightly bigger than tube diameter) made of conveyor belting. This slides up and down with the water pressure and closes of the hole. It is best fitted when out of water and slid on, but can be fitted if you have a thick enough piece of material, slit from outer edge to centre hole, twist and slip on. I have seen ones made from wood and screwed together. It also helps when you drop the boat on the cill ( it is a bit less to bend the skeg up).

 

We had one made in steel: - two semicircular 'C' sections each welded to a central 1/2 collar that then clamped round the rudder stock (with 2 x 8m machine screws) just 1cm below the uxter plate . . . very effective

[Speedwheel]

That looks more like a" Frisbie" than a splash washer.

 

Ye it could do with a better one really. Next time it's out I'll do one.