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evening all

 

just recently aquired a shoreline rr47 fridge,it cools ok ,minus 13 centigrade in the freezer compartment

 

the problem is,that the compressor keeps running,it has not rested in 10 hours

 

just checked the back of it,no dust on the matrix,the motor is not hot,just tepidbut the matrix is not warm.

 

any ideas?

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Is it brand new?

When I got mine (new) it seemed to run for ages when first installed. Eventaully it went on to a normal cycle, and does so when switched back on after being away.

 

I put it down to the refrigerant settling down after the fridge had been on its back for a few hours to transport it.

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Is it brand new?

When I got mine (new) it seemed to run for ages when first installed. Eventaully it went on to a normal cycle, and does so when switched back on after being away.

 

I put it down to the refrigerant settling down after the fridge had been on its back for a few hours to transport it.

thanks dor

 

your probably right,the fridge was transported yesterday on its side

 

i let it stand upright for 3 hours before switching it on

 

am on shorepower at present,so will give it a couple of days to settle down.

 

the fridge is 5 years old,i would expect it to work for another 5 ?years or so.

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Guest Quo Vadis

Is it brand new?

When I got mine (new) it seemed to run for ages when first installed. Eventaully it went on to a normal cycle, and does so when switched back on after being away.

 

I put it down to the refrigerant settling down after the fridge had been on its back for a few hours to transport it.

 

It's not the refrigerant that has to settle when you move a fridge or freezer, it is the compressor lubricating oil.

If you move it laying down, the oil just runs off into the cooling system, and unfortunately, if you lay it down on the wrong side, or it's back, it can run into places from which it can't return, and the cooling system is essentially knackered*, as tubing that should contain liquid refrigerant, can't because it has oil in it.

The only safe(ish) way to move a fridge or freezer laying down, is on it's front.

 

* you may find a refrigeration engineer who's prepared to try and flush it out then regas the system, but it wouldn't be cheap.

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QV knows refrigeration - listen to him :) I also wouldn't have thought that 3 hours is anything like long enough for everything to settle - 24 hours is generally accepted as the 'rule'.

 

Another thought. I believe the Shoreline uses the same Danfoss compressor as the Waeco? We had a thermostat problem with our Waeco causing it to run constantly, resulting in a £500 electric bill from the marina! The manufacturers sent a new thermostat and that didn't cure the problem, which confused everyone, so the fridge was sent off to Waeco to take a look. It turned out the replacement stat had the same fault as the original. Yet another thermostat cured the problem. So this leads me to believe that there's a faulty batch of thermostats doing the rounds and it's possible your Shoreline has one of them. It also meant that our Waeco had cost us in excess of £1000!

 

I could of course be completely wrong. ;)

 

Tony

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QV knows refrigeration - listen to him :) I also wouldn't have thought that 3 hours is anything like long enough for everything to settle - 24 hours is generally accepted as the 'rule'.

 

Another thought. I believe the Shoreline uses the same Danfoss compressor as the Waeco? We had a thermostat problem with our Waeco causing it to run constantly, resulting in a £500 electric bill from the marina! The manufacturers sent a new thermostat and that didn't cure the problem, which confused everyone, so the fridge was sent off to Waeco to take a look. It turned out the replacement stat had the same fault as the original. Yet another thermostat cured the problem. So this leads me to believe that there's a faulty batch of thermostats doing the rounds and it's possible your Shoreline has one of them. It also meant that our Waeco had cost us in excess of £1000!

 

I could of course be completely wrong. ;)

 

Tony

 

 

so ,the fridge is working well.

 

it has not drawn much from the batteries.

 

it is cooling well,and not over cooling.

 

do these fridges have a control unit that hums constantly?

 

might have to connect it to a single battery and measure consumption.

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I would have thought that by now the fridge would turn of (stop humming) if you turned it down on the stat.

 

Alex

yes,the compressor does stop if the stat. control knob is turned to 1.

 

have shut it down,will wait 24 hours and see how it performs tomorrow.

 

if there is no improvement,i will do as quo vadis suggests and take to a fridge firm which is local.

 

will keep my fish fingers crossed!

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so ,the fridge is working well.

 

it has not drawn much from the batteries.

 

it is cooling well,and not over cooling.

 

do these fridges have a control unit that hums constantly?

 

might have to connect it to a single battery and measure consumption.

 

Cue Dean S

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Guest Quo Vadis

yes,the compressor does stop if the stat. control knob is turned to 1.

 

have shut it down,will wait 24 hours and see how it performs tomorrow.

 

if there is no improvement,i will do as quo vadis suggests and take to a fridge firm which is local.

 

will keep my fish fingers crossed!

If that's the case, and it stays off for a least 50% of the time, leave it set to no.1 and run it for a few days, it may improve.

The compressor oil is of a similar viscosity to 3-in-1, so can be scoured out by the refrigerant ... you may just get lucky .... and I hope you do.

I only set my fridge to 1 anyway.

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Your problem could be the fact you switched it on after only 3 hours of being upright again. If it was transported on its side you should have let it sit for 24 hours back upright. Not sure if it's damaging or not, but that could be the problem

 

I had a shoreline delivered a few weeks back, and we kept it upright the whole time, it was fine, no constant whirring noises. Maybe it'll settle down and it was just the fact that its not reset as you didn't leave it the 24 hours. What's it like now - keep us posted :)

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Your problem could be the fact you switched it on after only 3 hours of being upright again. If it was transported on its side you should have let it sit for 24 hours back upright. Not sure if it's damaging or not, but that could be the problem

 

I had a shoreline delivered a few weeks back, and we kept it upright the whole time, it was fine, no constant whirring noises. Maybe it'll settle down and it was just the fact that its not reset as you didn't leave it the 24 hours. What's it like now - keep us posted :)

left the fridge off for 24 hours

switched it on 3 hours ago

 

the stat is set to 1 on the dial

 

freezer compartment is -16 degrees centigrade.

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left the fridge off for 24 hours

switched it on 3 hours ago

 

the stat is set to 1 on the dial

 

freezer compartment is -16 degrees centigrade.

 

Hi

 

That's good for the freezer but if it's set on one it should have switched of now. Its as cold as the freezer needs to be.

What the temperature in the fridge bit?

 

Alex

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hi alex

 

the main fridge temp. is + eleven centigrade

 

does seem to be a bigger than expected difference between the two?

 

peter

 

hi alex

 

the main fridge temp. is + eleven centigrade

 

does seem to be a bigger than expected difference between the two?

 

peter

when the fridge is turned off and then re-started,the red l.e.d. inside the fridge flashes 3 time.

 

according to the data sheet this means that"the rotor is blocked or the differential pressure in the refridgeration system is too high (>5 bar)

 

could this be what quo vadis was refering to when he said that the oil and refridgerant may be in the wrong places?

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hi alex

 

the main fridge temp. is + eleven centigrade

 

does seem to be a bigger than expected difference between the two?

 

peter

 

 

when the fridge is turned off and then re-started,the red l.e.d. inside the fridge flashes 3 time.

 

according to the data sheet this means that"the rotor is blocked or the differential pressure in the refridgeration system is too high (>5 bar)

 

could this be what quo vadis was refering to when he said that the oil and refridgerant may be in the wrong places?

I am surprised at that temperature differential, is the door seal OK and not letting the cool air out and warm in.

Am I right in thinking that the fridge was running, you switched it off and then switched it on again almost immediately for the led to flash.

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I am surprised at that temperature differential, is the door seal OK and not letting the cool air out and warm in.

Am I right in thinking that the fridge was running, you switched it off and then switched it on again almost immediately for the led to flash.

yes, the l.e.d. flasher 3 times after a brief switch off,but stops flashing after a minute or so.

 

the door seals to the freezer box and main fridge compartment appear sound.

 

will check main door seals with a feeler gauge

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yes, the l.e.d. flasher 3 times after a brief switch off,but stops flashing after a minute or so.

 

the door seals to the freezer box and main fridge compartment appear sound.

 

will check main door seals with a feeler gauge

Some times if the feet on the fridge are not adjusted correctly the case will twist slightly and the door wont seal all the way round, but the seal will appear to be in good condition.

The fridge didn't like starting against the differential pressure across the compressor which exists when they stop, normally a fridge is stopped for a bit before restarting which allows this pressure differential to equalise. I probably have not explained that very well.

Brian

Edit to add we use to use a sheet of news paper to check the door seal, just shut a single sheet in the door and see how easy it is to withdraw.

Edited by ditchcrawler
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Some times if the feet on the fridge are not adjusted correctly the case will twist slightly and the door wont seal all the way round, but the seal will appear to be in good condition.

The fridge didn't like starting against the differential pressure across the compressor which exists when they stop, normally a fridge is stopped for a bit before restarting which allows this pressure differential to equalise. I probably have not explained that very well.

Brian

Edit to add we use to use a sheet of news paper to check the door seal, just shut a single sheet in the door and see how easy it is to withdraw.

thank, i did understand your explanation,so, wont be concerned should it occur again.

 

checked the door seals with a sheet of paper,i was unable to use a newspaper for the test as i have not purchased one since 1986!

 

also checked with a 10 thou feeler gauge,seal seems to be unsullied.

 

 

your suggestion about the door seal does ring true when considering the temperature difference between fridge and freezer compartments.

 

 

i must be missing something obvious here?

 

 

how full of food and packaging would the fridge need to be to function well?

 

i know that fridges have to work harder to chill air than they do to chill solid matter .

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I went over to Lanzarote to visit my daughter in August, she had been there 4 weeks and had to defrost the freezer twice whilst she was there(well, her mum did!!), and it was constantly running, they kept having to ask a neighbor to store food for them.

I know Lanza is hot, however, the ice build up when I arrived was immense round the cold box.

I pulled the fridge out and looked behind, a bit dusty but ok.

 

I looked inside, and found the temp probe (which should have been clipped to the base of the icebox with the tip inside) dangling down the back behind the salad drawer at the base!!!

After re-uniting it with it's proper location, the fridge managed 3 days normal running with no ice build up.

 

Sometimes the simple fixes are the best.

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I went over to Lanzarote to visit my daughter in August, she had been there 4 weeks and had to defrost the freezer twice whilst she was there(well, her mum did!!), and it was constantly running, they kept having to ask a neighbor to store food for them.

I know Lanza is hot, however, the ice build up when I arrived was immense round the cold box.

I pulled the fridge out and looked behind, a bit dusty but ok.

 

I looked inside, and found the temp probe (which should have been clipped to the base of the icebox with the tip inside) dangling down the back behind the salad drawer at the base!!!

After re-uniting it with it's proper location, the fridge managed 3 days normal running with no ice build up.

 

Sometimes the simple fixes are the best.

Same thing with a table top fridge my mum bought, temp probe should have been in a plastic sort of clip thing on the edge of the evaporator plate

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thanks chaps.

 

i keep getting the feeling that it is a temperature sensing problem?

 

will investigate on wednesday,i have to move a boat for a friend tomorrow,it is one of those PIG UGLY wide beams and it is leaving the thames,albeit momentarily for blackballing,er ,blacking.

the fridge is now showing a temperature of 4 in the main cabinet and minus 23 in the freezer section.

so ,it must be a temp. sensing problem?

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the fridge is now showing a temperature of 4 in the main cabinet and minus 23 in the freezer section.

so ,it must be a temp. sensing problem?

Remember what I said about faulty thermostats? Well, I could be wrong, but....

 

Tony

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