oil Bubble stoves

[boatyboy]

I hope this might be of interest to owners of oil fired Bubble stoves.In our instruction book it says light the fire using a pineapple sized chunk of firelighter,this i've been doing now for 3 winters,and have always noticed a lot of residue in the pan when coming to relight the stove.I mentioned this to the owner of Welton Hythe marine."I never use fire lighters" he said,as they leave to much residue in the pan,so light it with a "Well alight match" and it works every time he assured me.

I went straight back to the boat,cleaned out the fire,put all the grills back,turned on and allowed the measured amount of oil into the pan.Lit said match and dropped it in.Hey presto !!! The fire lit ok.I have now used this method for a couple of weeks and its not failed me yet.

The advantages of this is that you don't get black hands any more,(only when you clean the stove out though).

You know that one has to virtually let the flame die away before the door is closed,and the oil turned back on?

Well i've found something else that gets the fire going quicker,before i shut the door i turn the oil onto max(6) for a count of ten seconds,shut the door and then turn the back to one.I've found that the lovely blue flame estabishes so much quicker.If you are not happy winding up to a max of 6,then try it on lower settings first.

It works for me.But it may not work on yours.

Dave

[classicstove]

I've owned and used a Bubble stove for many years and have always lit it with a match

 

When I want to lit it, I turn the diesel on at the fie, then the tap near to the stove and then inthe engine room to turn the tap on of the header tank

 

By the time I have taken the elements out of the stove, the diesel has started to spread across the bottom of the pot and is easy to light. It is easier to get to stay a light with some carbon from the last burning. The supply of diesel is then turned down to just above minimum and with areasonable amount of diesel in the stove, it burns well at the start and then settles down. This method means I can light the fire when first arriving at the boat so then go to unloading the car etc. The fire also has an Ecofan on the top which helps to move air around the boat

[mykaskin]

When perfectly clean I use a piece of kitchen towel and use the gas lighter (long reach) to light it with a fair bit of fuel in there (full power for about 30-60 secs). After a while you get clag at the bottom (unburnt carbon?) which acts as a wick and will light straight from the ligher. No mess, quick, and easy.

 

Mike

[Slim]

I hope this might be of interest to owners of oil fired Bubble stoves.In our instruction book it says light the fire using a pineapple sized chunk of firelighter,this i've been doing now for 3 winters,and have always noticed a lot of residue in the pan when coming to relight the stove.I mentioned this to the owner of Welton Hythe marine."I never use fire lighters" he said,as they leave to much residue in the pan,so light it with a "Well alight match" and it works every time he assured me.

I went straight back to the boat,cleaned out the fire,put all the grills back,turned on and allowed the measured amount of oil into the pan.Lit said match and dropped it in.Hey presto !!! The fire lit ok.I have now used this method for a couple of weeks and its not failed me yet.

The advantages of this is that you don't get black hands any more,(only when you clean the stove out though).

You know that one has to virtually let the flame die away before the door is closed,and the oil turned back on?

Well i've found something else that gets the fire going quicker,before i shut the door i turn the oil onto max(6) for a count of ten seconds,shut the door and then turn the back to one.I've found that the lovely blue flame estabishes so much quicker.If you are not happy winding up to a max of 6,then try it on lower settings first.

It works for me.But it may not work on yours.

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don't have a bubble stove but have seen them so this is asked with tongue in cheek. How do you fit a pinapple sized object, shall we say 100mm x 200mm into the burner of a bubble stove?

[Radiomariner]

Don't have a bubble stove but have seen them so this is asked with tongue in cheek. How do you fit a pinapple sized object, shall we say 100mm x 200mm into the burner of a bubble stove?

I think perhaps he meant "pine cone"

Edited to add smily so as not to offend!

Edited December 14, 2010 by Radiomariner

[dor]

pineapple sized chunk of firelighter

 

"Pineapple chunk sized" ?

[koukouvagia]

"Pineapple chunk sized" ?

 

 

Seems about right to me. Mind you I've never faffed around with all the strange ritual associated with lighting these fires. I just bung in a bit of lighted loo paper

[jelunga]

I also got fed up with the residue of firelighters.

I have two methods.

 

Allow a small amount of oil into pot, then an egg cup full of meths in the bottom of the pot, light, replace cataylser bits, and keep door ajar until meths is vaporising properly. Just before meths is exhausted, turn on oil to low setting. (What makes you think I have used Tilley lamps and good old primus stoves?)

 

Method two.

 

Open door, remove front skirt, and remove cover from lighting port. Allow oil to flow and apply light to oil through lighting port. Oil burns, heats up stove etc. When going well, replace lighting port skirt and close door.

 

 

Much prefer the first method with meths coz I love the smell of meths!!

 

K

[BEngo]

I also got fed up with the residue of firelighters.

I have two methods.

 

Allow a small amount of oil into pot, then an egg cup full of meths in the bottom of the pot, light, replace cataylser bits, and keep door ajar until meths is vaporising properly. Just before meths is exhausted, turn on oil to low setting. (What makes you think I have used Tilley lamps and good old primus stoves?)

 

Method two.

 

Open door, remove front skirt, and remove cover from lighting port. Allow oil to flow and apply light to oil through lighting port. Oil burns, heats up stove etc. When going well, replace lighting port skirt and close door.

 

 

Much prefer the first method with meths coz I love the smell of meths!!

 

K

 

 

Much the easiest method is to get some oil in the bottom then have the Mother-in-Law breathe fire across it. Handy for barbecues as well.

 

N

[rjasmith]

Much the easiest method is to get some oil in the bottom then have the Mother-in-Law breathe fire across it. Handy for barbecues as well.

 

N

 

Why not let the Mother-in-Law just sit in the corner breathing fire all day?

 

Keeps the boat warm.

 

No Bubble stove needed.

 

Saves on diesel.

 

Richard

[jelunga]

Why not let the Mother-in-Law just sit in the corner breathing fire all day?

 

Keeps the boat warm.

 

No Bubble stove needed.

 

Saves on diesel.

 

Richard

 

there is some logic in this. However, consider the extra noise, higher running costs and waste disposal involved.

 

Plus mine is deceased and would have a lot higher ash content!!

[BEngo]

there is some logic in this. However, consider the extra noise, higher running costs and waste disposal involved.

 

Plus mine is deceased and would have a lot higher ash content!!

 

 

Unfortunately M-I-L in this role is classed as an unflued heating appliance and discouraged by the BSS. It also means that she is not available on her broomstick for setting ahead.

 

N

[boatyboy]

Don't have a bubble stove but have seen them so this is asked with tongue in cheek. How do you fit a pinapple sized object, shall we say 100mm x 200mm into the burner of a bubble stove?

Sorry i forgot to put the word 'chunk' in

[J R]

I hope this might be of interest to owners of oil fired Bubble stoves.In our instruction book it says light the fire using a pineapple sized chunk of firelighter,this i've been doing now for 3 winters,and have always noticed a lot of residue in the pan when coming to relight the stove.I mentioned this to the owner of Welton Hythe marine."I never use fire lighters" he said,as they leave to much residue in the pan,so light it with a "Well alight match" and it works every time he assured me.

I went straight back to the boat,cleaned out the fire,put all the grills back,turned on and allowed the measured amount of oil into the pan.Lit said match and dropped it in.Hey presto !!! The fire lit ok.I have now used this method for a couple of weeks and its not failed me yet.

The advantages of this is that you don't get black hands any more,(only when you clean the stove out though).

You know that one has to virtually let the flame die away before the door is closed,and the oil turned back on?

Well i've found something else that gets the fire going quicker,before i shut the door i turn the oil onto max(6) for a count of ten seconds,shut the door and then turn the back to one.I've found that the lovely blue flame estabishes so much quicker.If you are not happy winding up to a max of 6,then try it on lower settings first.

It works for me.But it may not work on yours.

Dave

 

Godd bits of advice. Will give it a go when I get back 2nite. Firelighters do leave residue, but so does the diesel. Burner pot needs cleaning every so often depending on useage because of the carbon build up. We all have our own pet methods of lighting. Would be interested to know if people with a diesel stove feel they get better value for money for the fuel used over those who use coal.

[GUMPY]

Godd bits of advice. Will give it a go when I get back 2nite. Firelighters do leave residue, but so does the diesel. Burner pot needs cleaning every so often depending on useage because of the carbon build up. We all have our own pet methods of lighting. Would be interested to know if people with a diesel stove feel they get better value for money for the fuel used over those who use coal.

I have got rid of one of my diesel stoves and cut my heating bill by 40% even after buying coal!

As for lighting, I add couple or three of cap full of meths to the burner pot, use a long taper/gas lighter to light it.

Leave it to burn until its just about to die then turn the oil on to the "normal" level oil catches almost straight away as stove is already hot.

Having said that I only ever had to lite the one in the main cabin a couple of times year as it was on 24/7 during the winter.

Edited December 15, 2010 by idleness

[boatyboy]

I have got rid of one of my diesel stoves and cut my heating bill by 40% even after buying coal!

As for lighting, I add couple or three of cap full of meths to the burner pot, use a long taper/gas lighter to light it.

Leave it to burn until its just about to die then turn the oil on to the "normal" level oil catches almost straight away as stove is already hot.

Having said that I only ever had to lite the one in the main cabin a couple of times year as it was on 24/7 during the winter.

Thanks for replying.My original post was saying that i don't have to remove the grill tubes from the fire,thus meaning no more dirty fingers.I was amazed that the match trick worked.

I have read since in replies to my post that you remove the 'skirt',i guess that would be the fender.Then light the stove through the lighting port.I don't have one of those.....Do i?

Dave

[mudslide]

I've owned and used a Bubble stove for many years and have always lit it with a match

 

When I want to lit it, I turn the diesel on at the fie, then the tap near to the stove and then inthe engine room to turn the tap on of the header tank

 

By the time I have taken the elements out of the stove, the diesel has started to spread across the bottom of the pot and is easy to light. It is easier to get to stay a light with some carbon from the last burning. The supply of diesel is then turned down to just above minimum and with areasonable amount of diesel in the stove, it burns well at the start and then settles down. This method means I can light the fire when first arriving at the boat so then go to unloading the car etc. The fire also has an Ecofan on the top which helps to move air around the boat

Good thread this as there's not much info on Bubbles here .

Now to my question :-

I've never been able to run on low setting without a yellow flame - the optimum setting seems to be 3 when I get a nice blue conical flame . On this setting I use about 7 liters in 24 hours and have to de-coke it every 12 days to keep it blue . How does this compare with other Bubble users ??

[J R]

Good thread this as there's not much info on Bubbles here .

Now to my question :-

I've never been able to run on low setting without a yellow flame - the optimum setting seems to be 3 when I get a nice blue conical flame . On this setting I use about 7 liters in 24 hours and have to de-coke it every 12 days to keep it blue . How does this compare with other Bubble users ??

 

Good question. If you are running the stove at 50% which you state, 7 ltrs/24 hrs sound about right, but why you are running the stove so hot I don't understand. We run at 1 to 1 1/2 even when its minus goodness knows what outside which produces 20 to 25 degrees inside. (Also have an Eco Fan). Two thoughts. Are you using the higher chimney recommended by the manufactures to get the best vacuum in the flue. (Have a smaller sized cruiseing chimney for obvious reasons. Stove will run ok using that but is less efficient and produces more yellow flame at a higher setting and soot deposits). Secondly, perhaps quality/standard of fuel is a contributory factor. Find that run on white diesel produces blue flame quicker at a lower setting than some of the fuel supplied by canal side dealers. From the start of next year red diesel will be same as you get at the fuel garage, ie white diesel with the red excise dye added. Better all round in my view. Had two boats both with Bubbles. Both stoves have worked/reacted in different ways. Have stopped using the scaled fuel control knob as a guide to the heat setting; just look at how the flame is doing and how high it is etc to determine the heat output. Cleaning out is determined by how much and how hard the stove is used. About once a month on average during winter months to make sure it is clean, as a routine maintenence job.

[jelunga]

Thanks for replying.My original post was saying that i don't have to remove the grill tubes from the fire,thus meaning no more dirty fingers.I was amazed that the match trick worked.

I have read since in replies to my post that you remove the 'skirt',i guess that would be the fender.Then light the stove through the lighting port.I don't have one of those.....Do i?

Dave

I didn't think I had either. After opening the door, removing what I call the skirt (it is the bit that falls off anyway with a clang) my lighting port is at the bottom right front of the bowl. It looks like a bolt going into a metal flange with a lock not. Never knew it was there until I probably read the manual lol!

 

Good thread this as there's not much info on Bubbles here .

Now to my question :-

I've never been able to run on low setting without a yellow flame - the optimum setting seems to be 3 when I get a nice blue conical flame . On this setting I use about 7 liters in 24 hours and have to de-coke it every 12 days to keep it blue . How does this compare with other Bubble users ??

 

Over this last freezing spell, we spent 5 days on the boat, returning on Monday. Apart from running it up to about half power in the morning, it has been on the lowest possible setting 24/7.

 

I would be surprised if we have used more than 15 litres for the whole 4.5 days. We do have quite a tall chimney with a rotating cowl. At the lowest setting, it burns blue 90% with a few yellow / orange flames. In the morning I turn it up gradually until the blue cone appears over the centre, let it run like that for 20 mins then turn down to almost zero again.

 

Most of the time I am too hot to wear a jumper, and certainly would like to have one of the front doors open if there was no wind to give a draught. We also have an Ecofan, which helps a little.

 

K

[boatyboy]

Good thread this as there's not much info on Bubbles here .

Now to my question :-

I've never been able to run on low setting without a yellow flame - the optimum setting seems to be 3 when I get a nice blue conical flame . On this setting I use about 7 liters in 24 hours and have to de-coke it every 12 days to keep it blue . How does this compare with other Bubble users ??

That sounds like a lot of fuel you are using.We reckon that we use 3.5 ltrs in a 24 hour period set on number one.You say that when you run on number one it burns with a yellow flame.What you must take into account when it is as cold as it is today the oil thickens up and flow is decreased,therefore the fire does not get hot enough to create enough heat for the chimney to draw.

I only say that because i had the same problem. Last year i had to fit a new oil control valve.the paperwork said "This unit is set at the factory,and should not need any adjustment"....... WRONG !!

I installed the new unit.She fired up a treat,and kept on getting hotter.It was begining to go out of control.so we had to shut the oil off quick and contacted Harworth Heating (Bubble stoves)

I'll get to my point soon eh...I had to reset the High and low fire settings on the control valve.

This was a very long drawn out process,with lots of periods of waiting ten minutes while the flame stabalises.In actual fact it took about a week to get it right....Dont laugh!!

Ok back to your yellow flame.It sounds to me that you need to adjust your low fire screw on the control valve.If your fire is like mine then the low fire screw is the one towards the back of the valve.And the high fire screw is very close to where the stove heat setting control rod joins the valve near the front,and it should have a blob of red paint on it.(Check your manual).

Once you have located the low fire screw,turn it only about one quarter turn,making a note first of where it was set before you move it.Don't expect instant results,and could take ten minutes to notice a change.

So put the kettle on and be patient.

Sorry if this went on a bit,but i'm begining to finally understand bubbles after 3 winters.Let me know how you get on.Remember small adjustments!!!

Dave

[J R]

That sounds like a lot of fuel you are using.We reckon that we use 3.5 ltrs in a 24 hour period set on number one.You say that when you run on number one it burns with a yellow flame.What you must take into account when it is as cold as it is today the oil thickens up and flow is decreased,therefore the fire does not get hot enough to create enough heat for the chimney to draw.

I only say that because i had the same problem. Last year i had to fit a new oil control valve.the paperwork said "This unit is set at the factory,and should not need any adjustment"....... WRONG !!

I installed the new unit.She fired up a treat,and kept on getting hotter.It was begining to go out of control.so we had to shut the oil off quick and contacted Harworth Heating (Bubble stoves)

I'll get to my point soon eh...I had to reset the High and low fire settings on the control valve.

This was a very long drawn out process,with lots of periods of waiting ten minutes while the flame stabalises.In actual fact it took about a week to get it right....Dont laugh!!

Ok back to your yellow flame.It sounds to me that you need to adjust your low fire screw on the control valve.If your fire is like mine then the low fire screw is the one towards the back of the valve.And the high fire screw is very close to where the stove heat setting control rod joins the valve near the front,and it should have a blob of red paint on it.(Check your manual).

Once you have located the low fire screw,turn it only about one quarter turn,making a note first of where it was set before you move it.Don't expect instant results,and could take ten minutes to notice a change.

So put the kettle on and be patient.

Sorry if this went on a bit,but i'm begining to finally understand bubbles after 3 winters.Let me know how you get on.Remember small adjustments!!!

Dave

 

Wrong imo to think that that your flow rate has decreased because the oil is like syrup in colder weather. Remember that there should be a head of diesel that is pushing, pressuriseing, the burner, especially when the stove is set on the lowest setting. Wen't back to the boat recently having been away for 5 days during the last very cold snap down here and it was -3 degrees inside. Lit the stove; no probs with the oil flow rate or flame. Heated up and nice and toasty in no time.

[mudslide]

That sounds like a lot of fuel you are using.We reckon that we use 3.5 ltrs in a 24 hour period set on number one.You say that when you run on number one it burns with a yellow flame.What you must take into account when it is as cold as it is today the oil thickens up and flow is decreased,therefore the fire does not get hot enough to create enough heat for the chimney to draw.

I only say that because i had the same problem. Last year i had to fit a new oil control valve.the paperwork said "This unit is set at the factory,and should not need any adjustment"....... WRONG !!

I installed the new unit.She fired up a treat,and kept on getting hotter.It was begining to go out of control.so we had to shut the oil off quick and contacted Harworth Heating (Bubble stoves)

I'll get to my point soon eh...I had to reset the High and low fire settings on the control valve.

This was a very long drawn out process,with lots of periods of waiting ten minutes while the flame stabalises.In actual fact it took about a week to get it right....Dont laugh!!

Ok back to your yellow flame.It sounds to me that you need to adjust your low fire screw on the control valve.If your fire is like mine then the low fire screw is the one towards the back of the valve.And the high fire screw is very close to where the stove heat setting control rod joins the valve near the front,and it should have a blob of red paint on it.(Check your manual).

Once you have located the low fire screw,turn it only about one quarter turn,making a note first of where it was set before you move it.Don't expect instant results,and could take ten minutes to notice a change.

So put the kettle on and be patient.

Sorry if this went on a bit,but i'm begining to finally understand bubbles after 3 winters.Let me know how you get on.Remember small adjustments!!!

Dave

Thanks for the info , and thanks JR also .

Seems like I'm not getting the best out of my Bubble .

I'll try a taller chimney .

When run on 1 it also use about 3.5 ltrs in 24 hours but cokes up in a few days , also on that setting it doesn't heat up the rads enough in this weather.

I'd thought about adjusting the low fire screw but chickened out when the manual implied it shouldn't need to be adjusted. Then thought about it and assumed that I would only be adjusting the low fire setting (1) to the burn that I now get on (3)-i.e would it make any difference to my fuel consumption . If I leave it as it is , at least I can turn it down if I'm prepared to clean it more often . Must admit with a nice blue flame it's running hotter than necessary .

Why did you replace your Toby ?? - maybe I need to do that but I'm hoping not.

Cheers

Edited December 16, 2010 by mudslide

[boatyboy]

Thanks for the info , and thanks JR also .

Seems like I'm not getting the best out of my Bubble .

I'll try a taller chimney .

When run on 1 it also use about 3.5 ltrs in 24 hours but cokes up in a few days , also on that setting it doesn't heat up the rads enough in this weather.

I'd thought about adjusting the low fire screw but chickened out when the manual implied it shouldn't need to be adjusted. Then thought about it and assumed that I would only be adjusting the low fire setting (1) to the burn that I now get on (3)-i.e would it make any difference to my fuel consumption . If I leave it as it is , at least I can turn it down if I'm prepared to clean it more often . Must admit with a nice blue flame it's running hotter than necessary .

Why did you replace your Toby ?? - maybe I need to do that but I'm hoping not.

Cheers

I replaced the Toby because it was getting harder to turn the stove off.I was having to use a pair of pliers to turn the rod.I purchased the new one,then fixed the old one.I can't remember what i did,but i then sold it on ebay in good working condition.The buyer was so pleased with his purchase.

Have you attempted to adjust the low fire screw yet? As its a piece of cake.Just do it tiny bits at a time.Probably the reason your manual tells you not to adjust it is becauase they want you to call out a fitter to do it for you.And that won't be cheap!

If you adjust it to a correct flame set on one then you should burn less oil.The reason also that you are getting so much carbon build up is because of the inefficent yellow flame on that setting.

We have ours set on one all the times,and can just about bare my hands on the rads.

Re your rads not getting hot.....At the back of my stove i have a 15mm copper pipe with an air bleed valve on top.You may have air in your system.I did, and could not believe how much air came out,and it also made the central heating pump run a lot quieter due to no air rattle in the pipes.Bleed your rads too.

Not sure what you mean by "Must admit with a nice blue flame it's running hotter than necessary" sounds like its running how it should if its getting hot.

Good luck...Dave

[mudslide]

I replaced the Toby because it was getting harder to turn the stove off.I was having to use a pair of pliers to turn the rod.I purchased the new one,then fixed the old one.I can't remember what i did,but i then sold it on ebay in good working condition.The buyer was so pleased with his purchase.

Have you attempted to adjust the low fire screw yet? As its a piece of cake.Just do it tiny bits at a time.Probably the reason your manual tells you not to adjust it is becauase they want you to call out a fitter to do it for you.And that won't be cheap!

If you adjust it to a correct flame set on one then you should burn less oil.The reason also that you are getting so much carbon build up is because of the inefficent yellow flame on that setting.

We have ours set on one all the times,and can just about bare my hands on the rads.

Re your rads not getting hot.....At the back of my stove i have a 15mm copper pipe with an air bleed valve on top.You may have air in your system.I did, and could not believe how much air came out,and it also made the central heating pump run a lot quieter due to no air rattle in the pipes.Bleed your rads too.

Not sure what you mean by "Must admit with a nice blue flame it's running hotter than necessary" sounds like its running how it should if its getting hot.

Good luck...Dave

Thanks again , I meant that it's too damn hot when it runs blue but if I turn it down it runs yellow !! Will try all your ideas - Ice and snow again tomorrow but I'm warm with my Bubble.

 

Update :- the morning after .

Well I did my best !

The low fire screw is impossible to turn . Access is not good so after burning my shoulder on the flue , dropping my glasses behind and melting my torch I've given up until I can turn it off and apply some wd40 - won't be for some time yet

Edited December 18, 2010 by mudslide

[boatyboy]

Thanks again , I meant that it's too damn hot when it runs blue but if I turn it down it runs yellow !! Will try all your ideas - Ice and snow again tomorrow but I'm warm with my Bubble.

 

Update :- the morning after .

Well I did my best !

The low fire screw is impossible to turn . Access is not good so after burning my shoulder on the flue , dropping my glasses behind and melting my torch I've given up until I can turn it off and apply some wd40 - won't be for some time yet

Yes i found the screws rather tight,but they did move ok.Is your Toby behind your stove?As mine is mounted to the right at the front,and is easy to get at (After taking off the side panel off).Looking at the snow falling here at Welford Hythe on the GU,I'd leave it alone until its less cold.My fathers pet phrase used to be "If it ain't broke don't fix it". At least you stove is sort of working ok at the moment.

Anyway good luck with the stove.As we are turning our's off and going home for Christmas tomorrow.

Have a great Christmas all.............Dave & Diane on NB Urquhart Castle