Beta 43 - oil change

[Onewheeler]

Don't forget to open the little valve below the oil pump. It had me confused after some vigorous and unfruitful pumping.

[Mal in Somerset]

Help

 

Trying to remove the old oil filter. Have tried a strap tool but this is just crushing the filter rather than undoing it. Any ideas??

[bizzard]

Help

 

Trying to remove the old oil filter. Have tried a strap tool but this is just crushing the filter rather than undoing it. Any ideas??

Are you undoing it the correct way? anti-clockwise. Whoever fitted it last probably didn't lubricate the 0 ring and tightened it too much.

Edited May 26, 2016 by bizzard

[ditchcrawler]

Are you undoing it the correct way? anti-clockwise. Whoever fitted it last probably didn't lubricate the 0 ring and tightened it too much.

Easy to get wrong if you are leaning over the engine from the other side to do it and not in front of it.

[nicknorman]

Help

 

Trying to remove the old oil filter. Have tried a strap tool but this is just crushing the filter rather than undoing it. Any ideas??

 

I'd be surprised if a strap tool applied correctly didn't free it. And bear in mind the friction is from the rubber seal so it responds better to a steady pressure than pressure applied in jerks.

 

In extremis if you really can't free it I suppose you can make a hole in the side right through(near the seal end) and put a large screwdriver through. It will be very messy though!

[Guest]

I have borrowed my mechanic son's' "claw" type filter remover in the past and it is brilliant. Keep meaning to buy one.

My own preference, (other than the 3 pronged claw one) is an old trouser belt threaded through a slot in an old box spanner. A tommy bar is used in the hole in the box spanner and works like a chain wrench. I find it much better than a chain because being wider it has much more area of grip, and doesn't tend to crush the filter. Another advantage is it cost nothing except a bit of sawing.

Perhaps a piece of suitable material around the filter, then pass the chain over it in this instance?

Edited May 26, 2016 by Guest

[billS]

10W 40 is fine in a beta. The main difference is the viscosity of the oil when cold. The 10W 40 is thinner than the 15W 40 when cold which can make for easier starting on a cold/freezing day on the cut. Once warm the 10W 40 oil acts in the same way as the 15W 40.

 

I don't agree with that. The lower number refers to the viscosity at higher temperature. I used 10W40 and it tended to activate the low oil pressure buzzer when ticking over after high speed running, so I would stick to the recommended 15W40.

[Mal in Somerset]

 

I'd be surprised if a strap tool applied correctly didn't free it. And bear in mind the friction is from the rubber seal so it responds better to a steady pressure than pressure applied in jerks.

 

In extremis if you really can't free it I suppose you can make a hole in the side right through(near the seal end) and put a large screwdriver through. It will be very messy though!

 

Sorted! Broke one strap wrench and couldn't get enough torsion using a socket set with a strap tool. Had to resort to your in extremis measure - mallet and spike through the side. As you say very messy - got through three rolls of kitchen towel! The rim of the old filter was slightly crushed on one side - looks like it was probably like that before the filter was put on. I didn't do the last oil change - it was done by the boat yard! Hmmmm!

[Guest]

 

Sorted! Broke one strap wrench and couldn't get enough torsion using a socket set with a strap tool. Had to resort to your in extremis measure - mallet and spike through the side. As you say very messy - got through three rolls of kitchen towel! The rim of the old filter was slightly crushed on one side - looks like it was probably like that before the filter was put on. I didn't do the last oil change - it was done by the boat yard! Hmmmm!

Or somebody has wrenched it on with a chain wrench or similar?

Glad you got it off anyway

[ditchcrawler]

Or somebody has wrenched it on with a chain wrench or similar?

Glad you got it off anyway

Most likely

[Tony Brooks]

 

I don't agree with that. The lower number refers to the viscosity at higher temperature. I used 10W40 and it tended to activate the low oil pressure buzzer when ticking over after high speed running, so I would stick to the recommended 15W40.

 

Let us be clear. In a viscosity number like 10W40 the number before the W gives the viscosity of the oil at a certain COLD temperature. Exactly what that temperature is is on little importance here but it will be the same temperature for all number groups before the W.

 

The number group after the W gives the viscosity at a certain HOT temperature. Again the actual temperature is not important but it will be the same for all number groups after the W.

 

So when cold a 10W oil will be more runny that a 15 grade oil, both being measured at the same temperature. A W40 grade will be the same viscosity at the high temperature as any other W40 grade oil.

 

The oils do not get thicker, they just get thinner at a lower rate when heated than an old straight SAE 20 or SAE 30 oil.

 

Personally if a 10W40 grade oil put the oil pressure warning lamp on at idle while a 15W40 grade oil did not I would suspect the warning lamp switch, a stuck oil pressure relief valve, a worn oil pump or worn bearings. Both oils have the same degree of runnyness when hot (assuming they properly comply with the SAE scheme).

 

In my view a 10W40 grade oil will make cold starting demand a slightly lower current than a 15W40 oil but I doubt you would notice the difference.

[Guest]

 

I'd be surprised if a strap tool applied correctly didn't free it. And bear in mind the friction is from the rubber seal so it responds better to a steady pressure than pressure applied in jerks.

 

In extremis if you really can't free it I suppose you can make a hole in the side right through(near the seal end) and put a large screwdriver through. It will be very messy though!

Done that a couple of times Helping my son once when he was servicing some Japanese 4x4 type thing, and it was the only way we could see to get the filter off! It was totally enclosed in the engine mount. Brilliant bit of design , took me ages to remove the thing (I used to get all the good jobs.)

I am told care is needed on some modern vehicle engines and this might not be a good idea in those cases, but boat engines I have seen are a pretty straight forward filter with a short stub from the engine block.

[billS]

 

Let us be clear. In a viscosity number like 10W40 the number before the W gives the viscosity of the oil at a certain COLD temperature. Exactly what that temperature is is on little importance here but it will be the same temperature for all number groups before the W.

 

The number group after the W gives the viscosity at a certain HOT temperature. Again the actual temperature is not important but it will be the same for all number groups after the W.

 

So when cold a 10W oil will be more runny that a 15 grade oil, both being measured at the same temperature. A W40 grade will be the same viscosity at the high temperature as any other W40 grade oil.

 

The oils do not get thicker, they just get thinner at a lower rate when heated than an old straight SAE 20 or SAE 30 oil.

 

Personally if a 10W40 grade oil put the oil pressure warning lamp on at idle while a 15W40 grade oil did not I would suspect the warning lamp switch, a stuck oil pressure relief valve, a worn oil pump or worn bearings. Both oils have the same degree of runnyness when hot (assuming they properly comply with the SAE scheme).

 

In my view a 10W40 grade oil will make cold starting demand a slightly lower current than a 15W40 oil but I doubt you would notice the difference.

 

Checking through manufacturers specs, that appears to be perfectly correct.

 

It does leave me puzzled as to why the operating temp tick over pressure on my engine is significantly higher with 15W40 than 10W40 though. If the 40 means that the viscosity should be the same at operating temperature, why does the 15W40 give me a higher pressure?

[Iain_S]

If your engine is runnng at less than 100 degrees C, the 15W40 will still be thicker.

[Tony Brooks]

 

Checking through manufacturers specs, that appears to be perfectly correct.

 

It does leave me puzzled as to why the operating temp tick over pressure on my engine is significantly higher with 15W40 than 10W40 though. If the 40 means that the viscosity should be the same at operating temperature, why does the 15W40 give me a higher pressure?

 

I think that to answer that we need to see the viscosity index and a graph of viscosity against temperature for both oils.

 

I am sure that at whatever temperature the SAE specifies both oils will have more or less the same viscosity but does your engine run the oil hotter or colder than that temperate? When you consider that marine engines have little cooling air flowing around the sump AND that all modern engines use the oil to cool the underside of the piston then after a fast run your oil could well be hotter than the hot test temperature. From that we can conclude that it is possible that your particular 15W40 grade oil thinned less with a rise in temperature above the test temperature than the 10W40 did.