Chalice Engine Woes - Advice, Please

[Yoda]

I see several options all of which will fix the main problem.

 

Lift the engine out and fix the prob.

Remove all ancillories etc on the other side of the break and tilt the whole engine over to work on it.

Refit the bolt end as best, then braze it to the block.

Change the type of mounting on the broken side.

 

You can remove the stub end with :-

 

Easy outs

Drilling

Spark erosion

Hammer and chisel

 

The bolt has probably snapped by bottoming when first fitted. I suggest fitting the mounting foot before bolting to the boat.

 

Please contact me if you require more help.

[alan_fincher]

What are those sheets of wood in front of the engine? A bulkhead of some sort?

 

Richard

 

Sorry, Richard - missed that question.

 

Yes, there is a (largely) plywood bulkhead just forward of the engine. It used to be solid, but access to front of engine was impossible, so a removable panel was cut through it.

 

Unfortunately only about 15" forward of that is another full sized bulkhead, the space in between being narrow cupboards and wardrobe. Not a lot of access is possible through that cut hole, as the cupboard is too narrow to get both shoulders in, and use both hands.

 

In theory the whole lot could be removed, (2 bulkheads, lots of ceiling and shelving), but it would be a massive job. All the 12 volt electrics and isolator switches are mounted on the engine room bulkhead. It also supports the steel frame that carries to deck boards normally over the engine. And the rear bed is built on to the second bulkhead. And plumbing passes through holes cut in both..... (Get the picture!)

 

It could be done, but we are in "last resort" territory.

[Chris Pink]

I am probably missing something by not looking at the pics standing on my head or not being intimate with a BMC (yours is the cleanest i've ever seen btw) but...

 

How about drilling and tapping a new hole offset about 1" from the existing one? is there enough space in the engine foot to do this?

[mayalld]

I am probably missing something by not looking at the pics standing on my head or not being intimate with a BMC (yours is the cleanest i've ever seen btw) but...

 

How about drilling and tapping a new hole offset about 1" from the existing one? is there enough space in the engine foot to do this?

 

I would be very nervous about hitting the water jacket or an oil gallery.

[alan_fincher]

I would be very nervous about hitting the water jacket or an oil gallery.

Me too, I think.

 

I kind of assume the tapped hole is in a place where the metal is thick enough to allow it, and nearby it may not be.

 

The design of the bracket, ("leg") does not allow moving the hole, unless another bracket were fabricated.

 

I think I'm erring towards not trying DIY, but that means finding somewhere to have the engine out (I assume) and the trauma of getting it there "sans bolt".

[RLWP]

Me too, I think.

 

I kind of assume the tapped hole is in a place where the metal is thick enough to allow it, and nearby it may not be.

 

The design of the bracket, ("leg") does not allow moving the hole, unless another bracket were fabricated.

 

I think I'm erring towards not trying DIY, but that means finding somewhere to have the engine out (I assume) and the trauma of getting it there "sans bolt".

 

You'll be fine. You can take it easy and stop to have a look whenever you want.

 

If you really are worried, make a wooden support to go under the sump (a pile of ends of scaffold planks for instance), but you won't need it.

 

Richard

Edited August 25, 2009 by RLWP

[David Schweizer]

I am probably missing something by not looking at the pics standing on my head or not being intimate with a BMC (yours is the cleanest i've ever seen btw) but...

 

How about drilling and tapping a new hole offset about 1" from the existing one? is there enough space in the engine foot to do this?

How about my BMC then?

 

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Definitely cleaner than Alan's

Edited August 25, 2009 by David Schweizer

[Malarky]

Is the top right bolt now straighter on refitting, as you could bolt a piece of angle with fillets welded on the end(or ends heated and bent over at right angles) between the rear and front bracket to stop it twisting about, and even drill a hole opposite the bottom right bolt, and put a longer one through the whole bracket. I don't see the point of taking the engine out untill you have to for some other reason.

[Kraken]

I think I'm erring towards not trying DIY, but that means finding somewhere to have the engine out (I assume) and the trauma of getting it there "sans bolt".

 

 

If you don't want to try DIY, it sounds like Mark the welder travels (post 11), but I don't know how far from you he is. Your bolt is broken off quite a way below the surface, so his technique may be quite difficult. Might be worth a call and/or sending him a picture.

[alan_fincher]

If you don't want to try DIY, it sounds like Mark the welder travels

As it says Glasgow and Central Scotland, I suspect Hertfordshire may be a bit far to pay for his travel time.

[Smelly]

If you're heading to the National and are still DIY minded I've a clock you can have.

[Semitrad]

Two part mix rubberoid compound. Some of these have amazing holding qualities with just enough give to absorb vibration. In other words glue it on! Might last until a better opportunity presents for the easyouts.

[alan_fincher]

If you're heading to the National and are still DIY minded I've a clock you can have.

Not wishing to appear dense, but what is a "clock" in this context, please ?

[Batavia]

Not wishing to appear dense, but what is a "clock" in this context, please ?

Probably a Dial Test Indicator...typically used to assist with engine alignment.

 

Read on......

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dial_indicator

 

Chris G

[NB Alnwick]

Me too, I think.

 

I kind of assume the tapped hole is in a place where the metal is thick enough to allow it, and nearby it may not be.

 

The design of the bracket, ("leg") does not allow moving the hole, unless another bracket were fabricated.

 

I think I'm erring towards not trying DIY, but that means finding somewhere to have the engine out (I assume) and the trauma of getting it there "sans bolt".

 

Sensible conclusion - it would be a straightforward (though not easy) job for an experienced engineer with boatyard facilities near to hand. I wonder if it is worth talking to Chris (Baldock) at Marine Engine Services Ltd.

 

Every engine has a point at which its level of vibration is highest. On our boat this is around 300 rpm but on our MGB which has a similar engine to the BMC 1800 diesel it is around 1800 rpm. My advice is that you 'pootle' along to your selected boatyard at a speed where engine vibration is minimal or at least much reduced.

[Batavia]

Every engine has a point at which its level of vibration is highest. On our boat this is around 300 rpm but on our MGB which has a similar engine to the BMC 1800 diesel it is around 1800 rpm. My advice is that you 'pootle' along to your selected boatyard at a speed where engine vibration is minimal or at least much reduced.

The problem is that the resonant speed is determined largely by the mass of the engine and the stiffness and damping provided by the mounts - so "pootling" may be the last thing you should do. Just go flat out to the nearest boatyard, as you will almost certainly be above any resonant speed!

 

Chris G

[alan_fincher]

The problem is that there are few speeds at which a BMC doesn't rattle around like mad.

 

What ?

 

I said THERE ARE FEW SPEEDS WHERE A BMC DOESN'T RATTLE AROUND LIKE MAD !.

 

WHAT ?

 

Oh, forget it!..........

Edited August 27, 2009 by alan_fincher

[Batavia]

Well, at least you won't hear any complaints as you speed past.......and the clouds of smoke will obscure the shaking fists!

 

Chris G

[WotEver]

Well, at least you won't hear any complaints as you speed past.......and the clouds of smoke will obscure the shaking fists!

 

If you go via Brayford you'll be okay - they're used to it up there

[alan_fincher]

If you go via Brayford you'll be okay - they're used to it up there

I reckon it was a GRP "speed boat" racing past that must have caused the bolt to fracture in the first place. I'm just considering what else I can try and claim for - I'm fairly certain it also washed a lot of the blacking off, for instance........

[Naughty Cal]

If you go via Brayford you'll be okay - they're used to it up there

 

Take that back. Cal doesnt smoke at all

 

I reckon it was a GRP "speed boat" racing past that must have caused the bolt to fracture in the first place. I'm just considering what else I can try and claim for - I'm fairly certain it also washed a lot of the blacking off, for instance........

 

The tidal wave must be taking its time to get around the system

[RLWP]

The tidal wave must be taking its time to get around the system

 

My tea has just mysteriously spilled itself! I'm going to contact my solicitor!!

 

Richard

[Naughty Cal]

I shall add you to the list

[RLWP]

I shall add you to the list

 

Richard

[Naughty Cal]

 

Richard

 

If that floats your boat (so to speak)