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Chalice Engine Woes - Advice, Please

alan_fincher
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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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Gavin and Stacey

 

I can just about bear Open All Hours and Only Fools and Horses.

 

So some common ground, if only just!

 

Porridge? Fast Show?

 

League of Gentlemen??

 

Richard

 

A splash is heard. (Little Jim): He's fallen in the water!

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NB Alnwick Veteran II

NB Alnwick

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So some common ground, if only just!

 

Porridge? Fast Show?

 

League of Gentlemen??

 

Richard

 

A splash is heard. (Little Jim): He's fallen in the water!

 

No - that was a member of the Metropolitan Police, Marine Support Unit.

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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"where is the rent?"

 

"its in my trousers"

 

he bent down and sure enough there was a rent in his trousers

 

German spy: I'm not a spy, I'm a shepherd

 

Bloodknock: So! A Shepherd spy!

 

Richard

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saltysplash Experienced

saltysplash

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German spy: I'm not a spy, I'm a shepherd

 

Bloodknock: So! A Shepherd spy!

 

Richard

 

Seagoon has been placed in a cannon to be fired to the elephant surplus stores in Rawlpindi

 

Seagoon "this barrel is empty"

 

voice "yes, it mustve been rifled"

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alan_fincher Veteran II

alan_fincher

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Probably a personal thing, but I'm not that keen on the spiral type extractors. They tend to be longer than needed which can cause them to snap if you accidentily put sideways pressure on them, which is hard to avoid sometimes when working in awkward spaces. If you must use them Dormer are up with the best and available either individually or in sets such as these.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dormer-M101-CSCT-Scr...id=p3286.c0.m14

To bring this back to something to do with sheared bolts.............

 

Thanks to those who advised on thread extractor options.

 

I'm ordering up a set of the "standard" type in the suggested Dormer brand, (price fairly good on Amazon, as it turns out).

 

I'm still not sure I'm brave enough to try it though - the jury is still out on that one.

 

Any more helpful suggestions would still be most gratefully received - of any recent happening with the dear boat, this is the one I hasve least confidence in fixing. :lol:

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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To bring this back to something to do with sheared bolts.............

 

Thanks to those who advised on thread extractor options.

 

I'm ordering up a set of the "standard" type in the suggested Dormer brand, (price fairly good on Amazon, as it turns out).

 

I'm still not sure I'm brave enough to try it though - the jury is still out on that one.

 

Any more helpful suggestions would still be most gratefully received - of any recent happening with the dear boat, this is the one I hasve least confidence in fixing. :lol:

 

Words of comfort.

 

Have a go with the easyouts. If you can't get to drill the hole - nothing has changed, you need help. If you can drill the hole and it doesn't come out - nothing has changed, you need help. If you drill the hole off centre and damage the thread - nothing has changed, you need help. if you break off the easy-out - nothing has changed, you need help. If it all works - you are a star!

 

I'd probably undo the top nuts on the mounts and jack one side of the engine up to make a bit of access. More extreme - disconnect the propshaft and exhaust, lift it off the mounts onto some bits of plank and slide it sideways to get in. Take as much care as you can when centring the hole in the bolt. Drill the biggest hole and use the biggest easy-out that you can.

 

Apart from the access problem I think you have a good chance of success with this.

 

Richard

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NB Alnwick Veteran II

NB Alnwick

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Words of comfort.

 

Have a go with the easyouts. If you can't get to drill the hole - nothing has changed, you need help. If you can drill the hole and it doesn't come out - nothing has changed, you need help. If you drill the hole off centre and damage the thread - nothing has changed, you need help. if you break off the easy-out - nothing has changed, you need help. If it all works - you are a star!

 

I'd probably undo the top nuts on the mounts and jack one side of the engine up to make a bit of access. More extreme - disconnect the propshaft and exhaust, lift it off the mounts onto some bits of plank and slide it sideways to get in. Take as much care as you can when centring the hole in the bolt. Drill the biggest hole and use the biggest easy-out that you can.

 

Apart from the access problem I think you have a good chance of success with this.

 

Richard

 

And, while waiting for the extractors to arrive in the mail apply plenty of 'Plus-Gas' or similar releasing fluid to the culprit and do whatever you can to improve access.

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RLWP Veteran II

RLWP

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Another suggestion as you have your credit card out.

 

Buy a/some left-handed drills. This link is to a set but you can buy them singly: Northern Tools

 

Drilling the hole for the easy-out with a left handed drill may well bring the broken end out on it's own.

 

Before I added the extra screws, the four cap screws in our aquadrive used to fail regularly leaving a bit of threaded metal in the adapter. Many times I have got these out by fiddling at them with a bit of pointed metal to unscrew them. The worst time they unscrewed when we tried to drill them (A memorable occasion at Norton Canes). As this adapter had holes threaded through it the broken bolts "undid" with a normal drill.

 

You have tried to see if the end of the bolt in the hole is loose?

 

Richard

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MoominPapa Veteran II

MoominPapa

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You have tried to see if the end of the bolt in the hole is loose?

 

When I was a young and foolish Moomin, I bought a knackered old sports-car using my heart rather than my head. Only when I got it home did I discover that the horrendous oil leak was from a hole worn in the sump. Said hole had worn because the studs securing the bottom engine mount had sheared, allowing the engine to drop onto the support beam.

 

I jacked the engine up, removed all the extraneous stuff, and went through the same sort of mental limbering-up that you are, Alan. In the end, when I started, the stud-ends were almost finger-removable, and a standard easy-out was pretty much overkill.

 

I replaced the studs, blocked the hole in the sump with a nut-and-bolt and bolted it all back together. I never had a problem with the engine mount again. The rest of the car, by contrast, kept me busy every weekend. I sometimes think that owning a boat is a way to try and reclaim that early-twenties nirvana.

 

So, give it a go, it may well be easier to fix than you imagine.

 

MP.

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alan_fincher Veteran II

alan_fincher

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Thanks for encouragement both.....

 

I have already tried to see if the remnants of the bolt will turn by poking it with pointed objects, and the like - not a chance, unfortunately.

 

It actually looks quite embedded, and it's hard to see where the stud ends and engine begins.

 

I had hoped it would extract easily, but, as I said elsewhere, when I tried to remove the equivalent, (and much more accessible) bolt on the other side, (still complete), not only did I have to use a frightening amount of force, I also needed a surprising amount of force to put in a replacement, (albeit used), bolt.

 

My gut feel is that the easy-out approach will put the tool under a lot of stress, and I don't have the experience to know how much force they will take.

 

Clearly key to the operation will be the drilling of the hole. It will not be easy to go down the middle of the stud, and then I need to use the biggest hole and extractor I can, without risking spreading and tightening the bolt into the hole.

 

No doubt not impossible for an experienced hand in workshop conditions, but I've never tried before, and this would not be my most first choice place of where to work.

 

I suspect I need to go and buy a new electric drill too - I have more than one, but the speed control seems to pack up on all of them over time, and I don't think any can currently be run at slow speeds, (only the full Phylis!).

 

And, while waiting for the extractors to arrive in the mail apply plenty of 'Plus-Gas' or similar releasing fluid to the culprit and do whatever you can to improve access.

Yes Plus Gas purchased, although I could only get the aerosol - I always thought the stuff in conventional cans worked better.

 

Just need to get to boat to apply, but, TBH, I'm not optimistic much will find it's way in. (Because it is going into engine horizontally, I can't easily leave a puddle there to try and soak in).

 

The jury seems to be out whether carefully whacking the end of the bolt with a punch will help loosen it, or will help rivet it in, though. :lol:

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NB Alnwick Veteran II

NB Alnwick

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The jury seems to be out whether carefully whacking the end of the bolt with a punch will help loosen it, or will help rivet it in, though. :lol:

 

A single gentle tap in the centre will be helpful to centre your drill - I would start with a pilot drill of 3mm or 1/8" it will make subsequent drilling easier.

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WotEver Veteran II

WotEverDonate to Canal World

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I suspect I need to go and buy a new electric drill too - I have more than one, but the speed control seems to pack up on all of them over time, and I don't think any can currently be run at slow speeds, (only the full Phylis!).

 

I think Richard's idea of left-handed drills is an excellent one, so if you can beg/borrow/steal a decent cordless screwdriver (like a Dewalt) they all go backwards slowly.

 

Just a thought.

 

T :lol:

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