Night Hawk Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 This is probably going to be one of those questions where the answer is soooo obvious...just like "Who wrote Mozart's Horn Concerto"....well here goes.. We've had our boat for 12 months now and had the engine serviced twice...engine's chugging along fine and, touch wood, all seem ok! How does one change the oil? Or more specifically how do you get the old oil out? I should stress that I can happily do an oil change on most contraptions with two or more wheels but how do you get the old oil out of an engine that sits more or less on the floor! Now here's the thing....there's this brass thing bolted onto the side of the engine....it looks a little like a hand operated pump of some sort.....Being a chicken, I've stared at this thing and wondered what it does....I'm loathed to start pumping the thing incase something else happens... it falls off, for example, or something worse! Does anybody out there in virtual watery cyberspace have/had one of these Lister Canalstar engines (around 11yrs old) and can tell me how to get the oil out of the engine? Kind regards in advance, Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Pump it out through the dipstick hole. You need an extractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-B Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 This is probably going to be one of those questions where the answer is soooo obvious...just like "Who wrote Mozart's Horn Concerto"....well here goes.. We've had our boat for 12 months now and had the engine serviced twice...engine's chugging along fine and, touch wood, all seem ok! How does one change the oil? Or more specifically how do you get the old oil out? I should stress that I can happily do an oil change on most contraptions with two or more wheels but how do you get the old oil out of an engine that sits more or less on the floor! Now here's the thing....there's this brass thing bolted onto the side of the engine....it looks a little like a hand operated pump of some sort.....Being a chicken, I've stared at this thing and wondered what it does....I'm loathed to start pumping the thing incase something else happens... it falls off, for example, or something worse! Does anybody out there in virtual watery cyberspace have/had one of these Lister Canalstar engines (around 11yrs old) and can tell me how to get the oil out of the engine? Kind regards in advance, Andrew You can give me a ring..01895 236 246 Chris happy to help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
churchward Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Baldock is indeed yer man for these Listers. However, that brass hand pump is what you use to draw up the oil from the sump rather than drain it from underneath. Don't forget to change the oil filter too. Baldock will know for sure but I think with these engines the regular oil change is every 100 hours running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sociable_hermit Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 How does one change the oil? Or more specifically how do you get the old oil out? I should stress that I can happily do an oil change on most contraptions with two or more wheels but how do you get the old oil out of an engine that sits more or less on the floor! Now here's the thing....there's this brass thing bolted onto the side of the engine....it looks a little like a hand operated pump of some sort.....Being a chicken, I've stared at this thing and wondered what it does....I'm loathed to start pumping the thing incase something else happens... it falls off, for example, or something worse! That is almost certainly the pump for getting the oil out of the sump. It almost rhymes, too. Put one of those Halfrauds 5L oil tubs underneath it and give it a go. As you say, there needs to be a pump because a conventional sump plug would be impossible to reach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bottle Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Contact Baldock, he's your man. If you want to get down and dirty in the mean time, have a look at the bottom of the brass thing pump and there will be a tube connected to a modified sump plug . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-B Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Pump it out through the dipstick hole. You need an extractor. Phylis you must really learn to read posts before replying Now here's the thing....there's this brass thing bolted onto the side of the engine....it looks a little like a hand operated pump of some sort.....Being a chicken, I've stared at this thing and wondered what it does....I'm loathed to start pumping the thing incase something else happens... it falls off, for example, or something worse! Whilst I appreciate that you have learnt about your own engine , please try to understand others before you comment and possibly cause someone an unnecessary expenditure Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Oh but Chris, Phyllis' post is so erotic! Kinda reads like an 'Ann Summers' appliance catalogue! Will call later. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Oh but Chris, Phyllis' post is so erotic! Kinda reads like an 'Ann Summers' appliance catalogue! Will call later. A Whatever floats your boat (and not water) If oil extractors are your thing here you go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Whatever floats your boat (and not water) If oil extractors are your thing here you go I rest my case! A x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb Innisfree Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 There should be a valve between brass pump and sump, open this before pumping. Oil and filter change is every 100 hrs (due to hydraulic valve lifters) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 There should be a valve between brass pump and sump, open this before pumping. Oil and filter change is every 100 hrs (due to hydraulic valve lifters) That often? We can average 10hrs cruising each day - that's a lot of oil! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 "That is almost certainly the pump for getting the oil out of the sump. It almost rhymes, too." Wow, it does, it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 "That is almost certainly the pump for getting the oil out of the sump. It almost rhymes, too." Wow, it does, it does. Should one be in a rush to do an engine flush Or do I save the toil and just refill with oil? Backatchya! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb Innisfree Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 That often? We can average 10hrs cruising each day - that's a lot of oil! Yes it's a pain really, not bad for us every 8 weeks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterIsbister Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Should one be in a rush to do an engine flushOr do I save the toil and just refill with oil? Backatchya! Always best to do a flush Extractor might not get the mush Extractor pipes are small and stiff Corners in sumps are large, and whiff! They descend the depths of the dipstick hole To pull the oil is the only goal It's best for a brass pump For pulling up the oil and gump It's in the bottom and a good size Watch the knuckles usually applies! Must get a life Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) Always best to do a flushExtractor might not get the mush leave the muck where it is, flushing more often than not disturbs deposits that can block the oil pump stainer. leading to low oil pressure and possible engine damage. i have first hand experience of this with a ford v6, cvh, A series bmc and ohc vauxhall motors. worse on neglected engines. i have never flushed my own engines, regular good quality oil changes are all that is needed Extractor pipes are small and stiff Corners in sumps are large, and whiff! They descend the depths of the dipstick hole To pull the oil is the only goal It's best for a brass pump For pulling up the oil and gump It's in the bottom and a good size Watch the knuckles usually applies! Must get a life Peter Whatever floats your boat (and not water) If oil extractors are your thing here you go phylis is right. super bit of kit, would be lost without one. few stokes on the pump and it does it for you. use for forklift truck oil changes, draining a varity of fuel tanks. especially good for fourstoke outboard engine oil change with out needing to remove the motor from the boat. borg warner velvet drive oil change. bilge pump, motor vehicles with iffy threads on ally sumps - the list is endless. it has a useful 6 litre capacity, very easy and clean to empty waste oil into another container. not cheap at 50 odd quid but a site more useful than an old brass sump pump with a knackered seal......... edited for clumsy fingers. Edited July 27, 2009 by gazza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Just returned from Midland Chandlers at Preston Brook with 5L of Morris' 10/40 Authentic flavoured Lister Oil...costing nearly nineteen quid! Do I have to buy authentic Lister flavoured oil or will any API CC 10/40 do....We've always used Valvoline in our VWs over the years? I think I'll stock up on spare oil/air filters when we return (I'll be phoning Baldock with me credit card)... What makes Morris' oil better (or worse) than any other 10/40 oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 If your not flushing, beware of using synthetic oils as they scavenge all of the dirt out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Just returned from Midland Chandlers at Preston Brook with 5L of Morris' 10/40 Authentic flavoured Lister Oil...costing nearly nineteen quid! Do I have to buy authentic Lister flavoured oil or will any API CC 10/40 do....We've always used Valvoline in our VWs over the years? I think I'll stock up on spare oil/air filters when we return (I'll be phoning Baldock with me credit card)... What makes Morris' oil better (or worse) than any other 10/40 oil? the marketing dept and the fact chandlers only seem to stock morris oils, off topic a bit but fuchs silkoline and putoline have done the same with motorcycle shops. i have always used comma oils, from there humble api cc 20/50 thru to there all singing all dancing fully synth oils. 4.5L of api cc multigrade comma oil for the old mans bmc was 9 quid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nb Innisfree Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Using a brass sump pump does get more gunge out as it exits via drain plug, oil extractors are ok as a second choice IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 the sump drain plug can be above the bottom of the sump, especially if fitted to the side of the sump as most marinised type sumps will be. careful use of the suction hose will ensure you get most, if not all the oil out. our flt fleet do more hours in a year than a vast majority of leisure boats will full stop. they recieve little care from the operators and run at much higher rpms for a far greater length of time than an engine fitted to an inland crusing boat. as yet we have had no engine failures, engines fitted are 3.0 4 cyl lpg powered ohv GM and 4.3L V6 lpg powerd OHV GM. the lister should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Hawk Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 the sump drain plug can be above the bottom of the sump, especially if fitted to the side of the sump as most marinised type sumps will be. careful use of the suction hose will ensure you get most, if not all the oil out. our flt fleet do more hours in a year than a vast majority of leisure boats will full stop. they recieve little care from the operators and run at much higher rpms for a far greater length of time than an engine fitted to an inland crusing boat. as yet we have had no engine failures, engines fitted are 3.0 4 cyl lpg powered ohv GM and 4.3L V6 lpg powerd OHV GM. the lister should be fine. It a Lister in a ex-hire (challenger) boat so, so far, seems fine! On the subject of all things 'Lister' are 'authentic' parts better than 'imitations' - Can you, for example, buy genuine 'Lister' oil filters any more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now