PeterIsbister

No experience of your model but I did a nut and bolt rebuild on a ex 1000 last winter that was smoking badly. Had to re-ring it. I think the engine side will be similar. First thing I would do is take the plug out and being careful of the HT lead end, turn the engine over using the recoil starter several times to expell any oil in the cylinder from the spark plug hole. If you have or can borrow a compression gauge the reading according to the workshop manual I have for a simiar model should be about 60psi. If it never gets to that and still puts out oil mist from the spark plug hole it would seem like a ring has gone. As Gazza has suggested you seem to have checked the oil levels and fuel for contamination. So in my opinion the only way oil can be in the combustion chamber would be to have leaked past the rings or if someone has tipped it badly, its got in through the valve camber when the inlet port was open but this would not be an ongoing condition. Warranty? Peter

Always best to do a flush Extractor might not get the mush Extractor pipes are small and stiff Corners in sumps are large, and whiff! They descend the depths of the dipstick hole To pull the oil is the only goal It's best for a brass pump For pulling up the oil and gump It's in the bottom and a good size Watch the knuckles usually applies! Must get a life Peter

You could make your own filter element up inside the original can? Try:- http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...-All-Categories Don't know if you have a breather pipe into the air filter or wether the foam would be oil resistant, should be. If the crankcase breather pipe inlet is in the inlet manifold under the filter, no worries, if indeed its plumbed in at all. I think I read somewhere that some engines just vented the crankcase to atmosphere or a container. At least the foam will probably be safer than padding from clothing for being fire resistant though. Peter

My 1500 BMC has a wire mesh air filter that sounds similar to yours, I soak the mesh in paraffin/white spirit overnight and blow it clean. Only needed doing once in three years though perhaps yours has been overlooked in the past or is in dirty air?

Moving along then, Back to the topic question, I think, in conclusion, that "Loctite" or similar products are very good when used and stored according to the instructions supplied: if used indiscriminately they might just do what it says on the bottle. PTFE tape doesn't seem to have many problems with it. Be Lucky Peter

Well Done, how convenient You didn't say what bother you had though! You only managed to answer one question from previous post? Over the past 40 years i have had to deal with many examples of incorrect use of chemical thread sealants, most were hard work and expensive to correct often resulting in new parts being required and down time on a variety of machine tools. Why would i want to use it? I don't have any medium sized stainless pipe threads that need sealing on my boat or engine that require a medium strength loctite,(This from Loctites Data sheet). I would prefer to use the manufacturers recommended for a fine thread thanks,(542 is it)? if I ever feel the need to risk it that is. Be Lucky(seems like you have been so far) Peter

Well Andrew if you want to help, what's the use in advocating a product that "when stored below 8 degrees C and above 28 degrees C can adversely affect product properties"? "Optimal storage being 8 degrees C to 21 degrees C." How the chuffin heck do we do that in a Canal Boat?even if we could afford £16 for a small bottle is this product really suitable? Do you have a temperature controlled tool box? Have you ever undone any of the fine threaded brass joints you have made? Loctite 577 is'n't for fine threads anyway.The object is to assist Bob with his problem not give him some more! I,m done with this, I would like to wish the guy who has to work on any brass parts in your engine in future the very best of luck. Peter

No never used it, never needed too, just trying to help out a guy with a leak Peter

I am prepared to prooven wrong but I think the only reason that PTFE is not used on hydraulics is because new soft loose strands of the tape may cause valve assemblies to jam, not because it affects the tape, its impermeable. On the return filtered side of a circuit or a non flow or slow moving condition like a pressure switch in a Internal combustion engine it's OK I think. I've personally undone many externally dry PTFE joints after many years of service and have not noticed any "decay". Loctite 577 is for Stainless, I believe and "cures" (goes off)in the joint. If the Brass tapered BSP thread is tightened with the cured 577 in the threads, wouldn't the undoing process increase the chances of stripping the thread or round off the hexagon? (Steel being stronger than Brass). PTFE is brilliant as a friction reducer and will always undo. I would rather occasionally attend to a minor weep than have to heat up to 250 degrees C or drill out the fitting/switch to remove it. 3000 psi depends on the joint gap,hope my oil never gets to that, there wouldn't half be a mess No I do not have any connection with PTFE or a tape company i just think that a roll of PTFE is more useful on the canal side than a fancy bottle of chemical gunge, that has a shelf life, takes time to cure, needs controlled storage temperatures, is probably expensive and might cause problems later on. The blue stuff is Hylomar a gasket jointing compound. I do hope this helps. Peter

Bit concerned about advice for using Loctite 55 cord. Definately not to be recommended for small fine brass threads,more suitable for malleable iron. Manufacturer instructions advise roughing up the threads to give the cord some grip I suppose, using gland pliers If a thread has been produced to give a good fit and therefore seal properly then to mash it up will not be very good for a brass on brass type assembly. Loctite products are expensive and good used properly but usually have a shelf life, PTFE is cheaper and lasts indefinately in the tool box,and the joint is usually able to be undone without damage. Regards Peter

Bob, You may get a adapter the "brass nut shaped fitment" if I've read you right, from a plumbers merchants, take the old one with you as a sample. The way you wind the PTFE onto the switch is important, you want the tape to be wound into the threads as you tighten the switch,not wiped out of them. Tightly wind enough on so that you can just see the threads shape showing through the tape, two turns is probably not enough,as long as you can start the switch threads, it should be OK. Sorry if this is teaching Grandma to suck eggs I suppose the adapter bush may be split or the thread partially stripped by the tapered male thread on the switch (if this is the case)? and as the previous attempts have all failed then the bush seems to be favourite for renewal. If you can easilly undo the adapter, you could as a last resort use a semi-permanent thread sealant as you can always undo the whole thing and replace both if you have to, and check the depth of the threaded portions while you have it out to hand so that you know for sure that one is not bottoming out on the other before the thread is tight. Good luck, let us know how you get on. Peter

Hi If the top of the thread has not got a machined face (a spot face),on the block, a washer will not seal it. Has the switch got a shoulder underneath the tightening hexagon? again a washer will not seal it. PTFE should seal it, if the B.S.P. male thread is tapered and the port in the block is parallel and is deep enough to allow the pressure switch not to bottom out. Loctite should be used with caution as it can proove impossible to undo without damage if the wrong grade is used. You should always be able to undo or tighten the PTFE joint. Another possibility is it the thread that's leaking or the switch itself? Best of luck, Peter

Thanking everyone who took the time and trouble to give me the benefit of their experiences on the question of re-coach lining.Much appreciated. Thanks Again Peter

Has anyone had experience,idea,tip etc; for repainting tired,faded coach lines (originally gold,on when bought)? A similar shade will be used, probably a lttle wider. Rubbing down over 160 feet of one inch gap between masking tape plus the vertical ends fills me with dread Any sensible advice much appreciated.Thanks.

Hi Terry I think maybe we are off topic slightly from the original question, you may get more relative experienced advice by asking a specific question again? Anyway at least you have some spares on order. It sounds like the whole box and the studs are well stuck so if the paraffin doesn't work perhaps you could try levering with timber on a broad edge or a small hydraulic car type jack underneath if that's possible? spreading the lifting point to be as large as possible. If you repost you may get some relative answers from some one who has done the job? Where abouts are you,and showing my ignorance, who's AMC? Good luck, keep us posted, Peter